So, I ditched the Freelander :o)

And got myself a Defender, 300TDI 1994 SWB 90..

Its a lovely truck, apart from repairing the bottoms of both doors and priming/painting and then waxoiling chassis it is a sound motor - 107000 miles on the clock.

I did a fair bit on tinkering with my 2006 Freelanders engine (cleaningEGR valve, renewing engine breather etc) which helped it loads.
Just wondered if I can do similar things with the 300TDI engine? Not sure where the engine breather is, if it can be cleaned, if I can clean any EGT pipes etc....

anyone know or can give me some tips on a once over for my engine - a fuel, oil and filter kit are already on there way )

Thanks gents, im sure i will be posting in this part of the landyzone site more often!
All the best

sounds a good move to me.It does suprise me a bit that youve made it without knowing what you can do with it (wich is a lot if you know how) good luck with it

Sounds good, lets see some pics of it.

joe27979 said:

And got myself a Defender, 300TDI 1994 SWB 90..

Its a lovely truck, apart from repairing the bottoms of both doors and priming/painting and then waxoiling chassis it is a sound motor - 107000 miles on the clock.

I did a fair bit on tinkering with my 2006 Freelanders engine (cleaningEGR valve, renewing engine breather etc) which helped it loads.
Just wondered if I can do similar things with the 300TDI engine? Not sure where the engine breather is, if it can be cleaned, if I can clean any EGT pipes etc....

anyone know or can give me some tips on a once over for my engine - a fuel, oil and filter kit are already on there way )

Thanks gents, im sure i will be posting in this part of the landyzone site more often!
All the best

Click to expand...

good move bud
but why would you want to "clean" the EGR valve? ditch the fooker! get a blanking kit off fleabay

joe27979 said:

And got myself a Defender, 300TDI 1994 SWB 90..

Its a lovely truck, apart from repairing the bottoms of both doors and priming/painting and then waxoiling chassis it is a sound motor - 107000 miles on the clock.

I did a fair bit on tinkering with my 2006 Freelanders engine (cleaningEGR valve, renewing engine breather etc) which helped it loads.
Just wondered if I can do similar things with the 300TDI engine? Not sure where the engine breather is, if it can be cleaned, if I can clean any EGT pipes etc....

anyone know or can give me some tips on a once over for my engine - a fuel, oil and filter kit are already on there way )

Thanks gents, im sure i will be posting in this part of the landyzone site more often!
All the best

Click to expand...

think there is a breather on the bottom of the timing case. would check if the axle breathers are blocked as this can blow a seal. though to be honest you would be better off getting a roll of pneumatic air line and changing the lot, running them up the snorkel

The EGR that you refer to was only present on the later 300TDi engines, the same models fitted with a fly-by-wire throttle and a couple of electronic extras fitted to the injection pump. If this is the case, simply blank it off and make do with out it. As for your engine breather system, you'll notice a black cylindrical unit (cyclone filter) held onto the side of the head with one bolt. There will more than likely be a length of pipe running between this and the air intake or filter housing. Whip the pipe and the cyclone unit off and give them a good rinse out with petrol or cellulose thinners to remove any gunk that will get sucked into the engine, reducing performance. You'll also benefit from cleaning out your intercooler. Remove it from it's frame and then fill it with paraffin and thoroughly shake until it runs out clear. This will make way for better air flow through the intercooler and an increased cooling efficiency. Also check to make sure that the turbo hoses are tight and in good condition with no splits or folds. If the insides have collapsed they'll suck shut and you'll find yourself with a lot of black smoke and very little power. The CAF (cold air feed) pipe between the air filter housing and the turbo inlet may also have collapsed internally, so inspect that too. You might also want to check that the waste gate on the turbo isn't stuck open. Find the actuator arm and then clamp a pair of mole grips onto the arm. Push it towards the cab and it should move with a bit of force, and then fling back to its original position. If it's stuck you wont be able to move it and a tap with a hammer may be in order. You will also notice a length of pipe between the turbo and the injection pump. Ensure that this pipe is clear and that it is firmly connected at both the turbo and the injection pump - it controls the amount of fuel fed to the injectors for the given amount of turbo boost. Tappets may also do with an adjustment. I think they're to be set at .20 when the engine is COLD. That's for both the inlet and exhaust.

Then, if you want a bit more power, there's always room for a bit of pump tweaking

-Pos

Thanks for the detailed help chaps,
I noticed some fairly new blue hose from the diffs going up snorkel but will blow them through when my new wolf air compressor arrives,
I'll check the other engine bits on weekend, I have no smoke at all during running or startup no matter how hard I push her but the engine does feel a little limp compared to my 2L TD4...turbo takes a good 3miles to warm up and work properly too!

pics as promised )

Very nice You've got a good bit of kit there!

p.s the paint code box on my VIN plate is blank - would i be able to find the code elsewhere or is it a trip to halfords for colour matching?

good move!!!

and very good looking she is too!!