So has mine had a thermostat mod or not?

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Cooter

New Member
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101
Location
KENT
Ok, so I'm fairly good to go with a few 12v leccy connections and simple spanner and screwdriver jobs but when it comes to looking under the bonnet it all gets a bit blurred.

I've been told my 1.8 X reg late 2000 ES has had a good to sensible amount of dosh spent on it by past owners and it's been well looked after but with 86k on the clock I'm becoming more and more grateful/surprised that after every journey the temp is staying as steady as a rock, in the middle that is.

Needless to say any mods won't stop it's ultimate complete meltdown one day but it'll be handy to know what's prolonging it's life right now apart from its fsh! So how do I spot whether it's had a thermostat mod and any HG change?

Pictures will be of great help, ta :)
 
Look down between the rad and engine on the right.
If three hoses go into a big grey or cream plastic unit, you have the thermostat mod
 
Had a look, and I can't spot anything like that so here's a pic looking from above.


 
Oh right thanks, now I'm concerned! So how much is it to get that fitted by a reasonably trustworthy mechanic or should it be a specialists job?

Just to confirm though, could it of had any other thermo mods anywhere else not visible in tha pic?
 
Oh right thanks, now I'm concerned! So how much is it to get that fitted by a reasonably trustworthy mechanic or should it be a specialists job?

Just to confirm though, could it of had any other thermo mods anywhere else not visible in tha pic?

It'll have the old style thermostat at the back of the engine on the metal coolant pipe, that will have to be removed. Not quite sure of the details on that but Freelaner probably knows.

You could easily do this job yourself, it's just some hose clips and a bit of fiddling to get the old stat out then a refill of coolant and a bleed. The other mods are in the cylinder head itself and you'll only need to fit the if your head gasket goes again, assuming they aren't in there already - unlikely without the PRT mod.

Or fit an EWP and join a very exclusive club :D:D:D.
 
cooter, when you fit the prt system you need to replace the existing thermostat which is the fiddly annoying part of the job, also you need to find someone who is confident at bleeding the cooling system after fitment!
 
by strange coincidence (we aint had a question on this for a while) i have just this very night explained this very fitment to another noobie.

search button above ;)
 
Not for me................yet :)


i'm waiting for you to perfect it, hurry up :D

Once my 5k shakedown is completed we'll know ;). But to be honest it seems to fail pretty fooking quick when you arse up the installation - it either works or it dunt :eek:!

OP do you have a Haynes manual? It will help you with bleeding and such.
 
Once my 5k shakedown is completed we'll know ;). But to be honest it seems to fail pretty fooking quick when you arse up the installation - it either works or it dunt :eek:!

OP do you have a Haynes manual? It will help you with bleeding and such.

Meanwhile my cooling system is performing as it should but, granted, i will still have hot and cold spots in the system.
this is the only thing that i find mildly alarming:eek:


trick to bleeding is.....do it at least 5 times then do it again just to be sure ;)
 
Right, crikey, wish I could do it myself but alas, it aint ever going to happen. I'm guessing it's going to be a good couple of hours labour at a specialist that knows what they are doing?

It's been down to here many times in the past according to its history, so that's where it'll be going again probably. No doubt they'll be funny about me supplying my own parts!

4x4 Land Rover discovery defender range rover freelander service and repairs specialist for Kent, Sussex, uk

They look sound enough. It should only be 3 hours labor really, isn't that hard to fit. The bleeding can take a while if they do it properly - you will probably need to "burp" small amounts of air from the system for a week or so after. You can do this by carefully slackening the bleed screw on the top heater matrix hose, small bubbles and coolant will come out if there's air left in it.
 
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