smoking is back

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
OnTheEdge said:
Blue smoke is always related to a problem with either Air, Fuel or Oil.

It could be a mixture of either one with another or in the worst case, all 3. Either way, Air will always be involved.

If the smoke is not diagnosed at an early stage,(this thread indicates an early stage) it will eventually appear all of the time when the engine is running. So the first thing to check is the crankcase ventilation valve i.e the breather. Start the diagnosis with the cheapest option. This being air. If pressure builds up in the oil sump, the valve allows this pressure containing oil to release. The pressure containing oil is released into the inlet manifold which is fed from air filter. If the valve is permantly open, it will keep mixing air and oil with other gas from inside the engine. The oil gets mixed fuel and air and this creates the blue smoke.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Excellent post, very well explained.
Even I nearly understood it.
 
although it is true if the engine is breathing heavy it will blue smoke, (the only cause of blue smoke is oil, fuel is generally grey/white, air or lack of is black and water is white)what you are forgetting is that it only does on start up and has only started doing it since the cold weather started. None of these are related to a breather problem as any excess crankcase pressure will go overnight and it will take a little while for it to build up again unless there is a loss of cylinder pressure into the crankcase.
 
kev1nlm said:
although it is true if the engine is breathing heavy it will blue smoke, (the only cause of blue smoke is oil, fuel is generally grey/white, air or lack of is black and water is white)what you are forgetting is that it only does on start up and has only started doing it since the cold weather started. None of these are related to a breather problem as any excess crankcase pressure will go overnight and it will take a little while for it to build up again unless there is a loss of cylinder pressure into the crankcase.
Click to expand...

i hate this car now sent almost a grand since i got it and now this and i dnt no where to start because its only a cold thing and not as in engine cold i mean weather cold :(
 
kev1nlm said:
although it is true if the engine is breathing heavy it will blue smoke, (the only cause of blue smoke is oil, fuel is generally grey/white, air or lack of is black and water is white)what you are forgetting is that it only does on start up and has only started doing it since the cold weather started. None of these are related to a breather problem as any excess crankcase pressure will go overnight and it will take a little while for it to build up again unless there is a loss of cylinder pressure into the crankcase.
Click to expand...

The cold has absolutely nothing to do with the blue smoke.

Because air is vaporised during combustion is why we see lots of steam from the exhaust, this is what makes the blue smoke more noticeable in colder weather.

The blue smoke clears in a very short time and it does idle lumpy.

The fact that it isn't using oil and that loss of power isn't mentioned, rules out loss of cylinder pressure. Therefore, a pressure test is not required.


The engine's crankcase contains numerous gases, moisture as well as unburned fuel vapour. These vapours must be removed to prevent the oil becoming contaminated. Contaminated oil leads to sludge formation. The breather system removes these nasty things from the crankcase to prevent sludge, returning them into the inlet manifold so they can be combusted.


Like I said. Look at the cheaper option first and check the breather before considering any expensive diagnostic.
 
Last edited:
The engine's crankcase contains numerous gases, moisture as well as unburned fuel vapour. These vapours must be removed to prevent the oil becoming contaminated. Contaminated oil leads to sludge formation. The breather system removes these nasty things from the crankcase to prevent sludge, returning them into the inlet manifold so they can be combusted.
I'm still not quite sure what effect the cold would have on this but I suppose time will tell in the end, just offering an experienced opinion.
 
This is what I mentioned a while back.

Rough starting on my TD4 for about 5-10 seconds then feels smooth, with blueish smoke from the rear for the first start of the day, which could be for me at any time of day as I have no set pattern for work hours.
 
How would I test a l series injector

Is there anyone local to me who could get e glow plugs out

Least if a injector was the cause I'd put the Sdi ones in lol

The bad luck I have had with this car I see it been expensive and after the year I have had it isn't going to happen
 
matt1295 said:
How would I test a l series injector

Is there anyone local to me who could get e glow plugs out

Least if a injector was the cause I'd put the Sdi ones in lol

The bad luck I have had with this car I see it been expensive and after the year I have had it isn't going to happen
Click to expand...

If you have a multi-meter, you can test them without removal. First remove the bus bar. Select the desired ohms on the multi-meter. Place the black/negative on the thread of a glow plug and the red/positive on the top end of the plug.

How to use a multi-meter. Watch this @ 3.20:

How To Use A Multimeter - YouTube

It is the same as checking a glow plug.


Take the reading from each. If they all give a similar reading, the plugs are fine. I'm unsure what resistance is required with your glow plugs but if any are off, you will see this with the multi-meter.


If you really need to remove them, get some Plus Gas at your local motor factors. It's like WD40 but more penetrable. Spray on the threads of the glow plugs. This will gradually find its way through. Do it several times over the next few days.

Have you tried the breather yet?
 
kev1nlm said:
it is but with it only showing on cold days and with a temporary lumpy idle that's why I thought perhaps a slightly worn bore
Click to expand...


Anything that is worn and creating blue smoke will not stop creating blue smoke. It will also use oil from the sump and reduce oil level. This will be evident on the dipstick.
 
Because I can only check on really cold days and the first start up I haven't checked the breather because it only happens that first time.
tomorrow I was going to disconnect it from the rocker before start up to see what happened
 
A pump that is too rich I.e. too much diesel will give you the same symptoms. My diesel Peugeot does the same because of the enrichment device on the pump. During -15c the smoke is really bad and I run the engine for a while, then allow the heat to sink in, then restart. Thus with a warmer engine the warmup is quicker and the pump does not over fuel.
 
Emissions are governed by the Electronic Control Module and if yours has been chipped or altered in anyway then the mapping in the ECM could be overfuelling. Without trawling through these badly written Wksp manuals, all the sections are typical modern fit another unit or plug it into a diagnostic machine. No one takes stuff apart nowdays .Grrr.
 
well went out today and took the breather pipe off and the maf sensor

not as bad but it also isnt as cold today

going to see if i can borrow a 10mm long enough to get the glow plugs out
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Smoking freelander
Replies
2
Views
739
Andy Warren
Andy Warren
D
Td4 starting
Replies
3
Views
893
Nodge68
Nodge68
C
Discovery 4 fumes in cabin
Replies
2
Views
871
Chadders1960
C
onza120
Freelander 1 TD4 Auto EGR without EGR Cooler
Replies
2
Views
666
onza120
onza120
M
high pressure fuel pump regulator possible issue after change
Replies
4
Views
746
MGT
M
Back
Top