SLS raise/lower remote - faking it?

Schematic

The 'output' of this circuit is taken from the collector of Q1, and routed to the appropriate input pin on the green connector on the SLABS ECU.

The switch will make the rear suspension go up and down.

david pye said:

well, now it works

i have a switch which makes the sls go up if you press it one way, and down if you press it the other.

I just need to try to get some smaller pic boards then i will have something i can fit and forget

is anyone else likely to be interested in a kit form of one of these?

cheers,

david

Click to expand...

hell yeah !

There is a limitation though.

Like the standard LR remote, the SLS will only go up or down if all the doors are shut.
Which means, you either need to be in the car pressing the switch, or have the window open and reach in and press the switch.

Another question is where to mount the switch - to me, I think drilling a small hole in the binnacle switch plate and putting it in there would make it easy.

Thoughts?

how about on back bumper with a kill switch in line. turn switch on get out close door walk to back and use switch only an idea.

Kill switch? I dont follow that bit - why would you need it?

as switch outside car i thought kill (wrong word) isolater (spelt wrong) so switch only goes live when you want to use it.

Ah, gotcha. Fortunately, because of the ECU constraints, the switch will only be allowed to work when the key is in position 2, and all doors are shut, so it's not as if some comedian will be able to lower the car onto the bump stops without the owner knowing about it ;-)

The only issue will be finding a suitable switch. I wanted to put mine through a hole on the rear body panel, but water gets to the back of the panel too, so the whole switch will need significant waterproofing, not just the 'front' of it!

Nice job m8... i managed to do that in the "pure electrical" way by feeding the valves/compressor directly through a switch but it's not easy cos blocking diodes are needed to not disturb the system...but at least it's working with only one condition ...to have "juice" in the battery

Project ? Land Rover Discovery 2 SLS height controller - Fritzing

Here ya go - everything needed is here. PCB layout, circuit diagram, code for the arduino (PIC).

I will etch up a couple of boards and see if they work as planned. If they do, I will consider making them available if people are interested!

Superb David, great work

I'd like one please in kit form as long as its programmed ready to be assembled

Just working on polishing the design for production

It is going to use surface mount stuff and I expect to provide it as a board with all the cables attached so it can be fitted plug and play, using a scotch lock connector or similar to splice into the bcu loom, so no soldering needed!

I will post an update in a couple of weeks when I have had a good block of time off work to finish things up!

Cheers

Hi David,

I'm not worried about having it built, I'm adept at attacking things with a soldering iron (day job lol)

Just the programming of the IC fazes me

David Pye said:

Just working on polishing the design for production

It is going to use surface mount stuff and I expect to provide it as a board with all the cables attached so it can be fitted plug and play, using a scotch lock connector or similar to splice into the bcu loom, so no soldering needed!

I will post an update in a couple of weeks when I have had a good block of time off work to finish things up!

Cheers

Click to expand...

Yes, could use one of those! Had to put some awkward heavy stuff in the back recently and lowering the rear would have made it so much easier.

I would also like one ?????

Won't be long, guys! Just final details and then I will have them ready for sale.

I am not hoping to get rich from these things but I do have to etch the PCBs, drill and assemble. What kind of price would people pay for the whole thing, no soldering etc required, and including the switch and sufficient cabling to route the switch to a spare blanking plate on the binnacle? (Would need to drill a hole in the blank for the switch to go through)

David Pye said:

Won't be long, guys! Just final details and then I will have them ready for sale.

I am not hoping to get rich from these things but I do have to etch the PCBs, drill and assemble. What kind of price would people pay for the whole thing, no soldering etc required, and including the switch and sufficient cabling to route the switch to a spare blanking plate on the binnacle? (Would need to drill a hole in the blank for the switch to go through)

Click to expand...

If it's less than the landrover fob that'll do for me. How does 50 squid including postage sound?

I would be interested. Price wise I was thinking about £35 posted

Probably talking crap but ive just read that the plips work on 433mhz and the ecu can be programmed to work with any plip?

nathan5346 said:

Probably talking crap but ive just read that the plips work on 433mhz and the ecu can be programmed to work with any plip?

Click to expand...

yes...with any dedicated plip which was built for that