Slightly odd breakdown today

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lightning

Well-Known Member
Posts
4,077
Location
High Peak
So my missus rings me in a bit of a state, she’s blocking the road in her TD5 90 as the clutch pedal has stuck down.
Also she says the gear lever is stuck in second gear.
Which seems like two opposite faults to me.
Anyway, she says managed to select first gear but there’s no drive.
And then a very nice man in another Defender stops and offers a tow, but pulls the pedal up and after that all is fine!!
Missus drives home and no problem now.
Clutch and flywheel are brand new, fitted two months ago.
Driving it yesterday l noticed more free play in the pedal than there should be, although it was working right at the bottom of the pedal travel.
So l bled the clutch hydraulics last night and it seemed fine after that.

l take it the clutch is OK as it’s new. I’ve ordered a master and slave cylinder but am foxed by my missus saying she couldn’t select any gears and the lever was “stuck in second gear” with the engine running but there was no drive.
Although she said that when she managed to select first gear the engine stalled.
 
So my missus rings me in a bit of a state, she’s blocking the road in her TD5 90 as the clutch pedal has stuck down.
Also she says the gear lever is stuck in second gear.
Which seems like two opposite faults to me.
Anyway, she says managed to select first gear but there’s no drive.
And then a very nice man in another Defender stops and offers a tow, but pulls the pedal up and after that all is fine!!
Missus drives home and no problem now.
Clutch and flywheel are brand new, fitted two months ago.
Driving it yesterday l noticed more free play in the pedal than there should be, although it was working right at the bottom of the pedal travel.
So l bled the clutch hydraulics last night and it seemed fine after that.

l take it the clutch is OK as it’s new. I’ve ordered a master and slave cylinder but am foxed by my missus saying she couldn’t select any gears and the lever was “stuck in second gear” with the engine running but there was no drive.
Although she said that when she managed to select first gear the engine stalled.



When I have had had similar symptoms of the bite point moving and the clutch pedal behaving erratically it has either been the pivot punching through the clutch fork or the master cylinder failing. I would assume (key word) the fork was replaced during the clutch change so that would point to a hydraulic issue. If bleeding made a difference this would possibly support this theory.
 
One thing I have just remembered is that the clutch pedal spring (I have a the later pedal design) on mine broke and caused the pedal to stay on the floor, had to develop a technique of flicking it back up with your toe underneath it. Removal of the spring made it drivable again until a new one arrived and was refitted. May be worth checking this as is nice and easy and free. When mine broke it looked fine but on inspection it had split across the middle and only one side was acting on the pedal. Pic below from google sping the spring I am referring to:

dscf5849.jpg


EDIT: pic does not appear to have posted with the current forum glitches, will try again later
 
The TD5 has a fairly heavy clutch fork, cast rather than pressed metal so it is unlikely to wear through,
I've not experienced this problem on my Td5 but I seem to remember bankz5152 had something similar on his a little while ago.
 
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