Sick & tired of LR bolts !!!!

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Irishrover

Irishrover

Well-Known Member
Posts
5,317
Location
La Trimouille, Vienne, France
:behindsofa: :mad::mad:

I am sick & tired of the crappy bolts used on the Freelander and no doubt other LR models, especially the smaller sizes.
The bolts that I refer to are those with a forged washer and reduced size hexagon head.
A few weeks ago I decided to replace the front anti roll bar bushes and each clamp securing the bushes is retained by two M8 bolts. Instead of the hexagon being 13mm A/F they are 10mm A/F and were rusted away. Tried the usual dodges...hammering on a slightly smaller socket, hammer and chisel, Plus Gas not WD40 etc to no avail. In the end I had to drill the bolts out after removing the front subframe. I replaced these bolts with "Proper" hex. head bolts and washers.
Yesterday, decided to renew the fuel filter (Easy job :)), rear brake shoes and both handbrake cables. Guess what ??...the M8 bolts securing the cables to the rear crossmember, which have these "Mickey Mouse" heads are rusted solid and the hexagon has rusted away on both of them :eek:
So it's out with the drill and taps again and I will replace them with "Proper" bolts, well coated with copper grease.

Rant over.......:5bbeatdeadhorse5::bolt:
 
These "Cheese" bolts were fitted to everything from the Rover stable. This practice started at around the same time the Group was taken over!! As a matter of course I swap vulnerable bolts to proper versions.
 
It is amazing what the salt on British roads does. Cars rust away at an alarming rate, exhausts are constantly being replaced etc and bolts corode and are very difficult to dislodge. New Zealand doesn't put salt on roads in winter (just grit) and it is amazing the difference it makes. Cars do rust from trapped moisture (poor design or mud etc) but nothing like in the UK. Exhausts needing replacing is very rare. My 99 Freelander looks like a 5 year old car underneath, not coming up 15 years. Having said that though, the cars should be built for the conditions and, as you say, use bigger heads on bolts.
 
Irishrover said:
:behindsofa: :mad::mad:

I am sick & tired of the crappy bolts used on the Freelander and no doubt other LR models, especially the smaller sizes.
The bolts that I refer to are those with a forged washer and reduced size hexagon head.
A few weeks ago I decided to replace the front anti roll bar bushes and each clamp securing the bushes is retained by two M8 bolts. Instead of the hexagon being 13mm A/F they are 10mm A/F and were rusted away. Tried the usual dodges...hammering on a slightly smaller socket, hammer and chisel, Plus Gas not WD40 etc to no avail. In the end I had to drill the bolts out after removing the front subframe. I replaced these bolts with "Proper" hex. head bolts and washers.
Yesterday, decided to renew the fuel filter (Easy job :)), rear brake shoes and both handbrake cables. Guess what ??...the M8 bolts securing the cables to the rear crossmember, which have these "Mickey Mouse" heads are rusted solid and the hexagon has rusted away on both of them :eek:
So it's out with the drill and taps again and I will replace them with "Proper" bolts, well coated with copper grease.

Rant over.......:5bbeatdeadhorse5::bolt:
Click to expand...

Worse than your P38 John? :rolleyes::):)
 
Datatek said:
Worse than your P38 John? :rolleyes::):)
Click to expand...

:behindsofa::welcome:

Hiya Keith...Yes a lot worse, there is no underseal to be seen anywhere on these F/landers which is no doubt the main cause. If I looked underneath, all I can see is a load of rusty threads hanging through the welded nuts like a display of stalactites !!
I must admit that I never had to drill a rusty, seized bolt out on the Classic or P38.
Furthermore, looking at the hexagon form on the "Mickey Mouse" bolts, it appears that they have been chiselled out by The Flintstones as they are slightly tapered and it's no wonder the socket is slipping.
By the way, before anyone asks....I have both Britool and Snap On sockets.
Anyway, they have been replaced with Stainless "Proper" hex. setpins.

I see you are still one of the mainstays of the RR forum and the EAS questions (Same old) still keep coming !!
Hope things are going well in France....

:beer2::tea::smokin::smokin:
 
I never needed these as much as I have on my freelander.
Just done the same anti roll bar bushes. Had to remove 2" mud from the subframe so I can understand a little rust
bunebu9a.jpg
 
Now I'M ****ED OFF. You talk about how LR have taken the good old Nut & Bolt and made it "better" but actually made it worse. Well I'm just putting the 2 hoses back on my IRD and LR have taken the good old Jubilie Clip and done the same thing. Some kind of squash together thingie now. So far all I have managed to do is squash my fingers with the pliers, the clips refuse to go over the hoses.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Now I'M ****ED OFF. You talk about how LR have taken the good old Nut & Bolt and made it "better" but actually made it worse. Well I'm just putting the 2 hoses back on my IRD and LR have taken the good old Jubilie Clip and done the same thing. Some kind of squash together thingie now. So far all I have managed to do is squash my fingers with the pliers, the clips refuse to go over the hoses.
Click to expand...

:behindsofa:

Yes, those clips are another pain in the ass :(...I replace them with jubilee clips whenever I have to take them off.
If you can gain access, try using self locking grips (Mole Grips) to refit them-simply place the jaws over the "Legs" on the clip until it is fully open, slide it over the hose and then release them.
 
Irishrover said:
:behindsofa:

Yes, those clips are another pain in the ass :(...I replace them with jubilee clips whenever I have to take them off.
If you can gain access, try using self locking grips (Mole Grips) to refit them-simply place the jaws over the "Legs" on the clip until it is fully open, slide it over the hose and then release them.
Click to expand...

lol, you can come out now, I've got them on. I would have gone down the shop and bought some jubilee clips, but they were shut. But Pizza Hut was open so had dinner instead !

Had another go after dinner and managed to get them on without crushing any more fingers. Filled the IRD then only had to fill the gearbox and put some H2O in and I'd be off - but couldn't work out where to fill the gearbox (99 Diesel). So I'll leave that till daylight in the morning.

As for mole grips, you'd better get back behind that couch, cos I sussed they'd be just the job - but could I find them !!!! Bugger, bugger, feck, bugger......
 
Gearbox filler for the l series is down the side from memory. Needed a bit of pipe to get it in
 
Irishrover said:
:behindsofa: :mad::mad:

I am sick & tired of the crappy bolts used on the Freelander and no doubt other LR models, especially the smaller sizes.
The bolts that I refer to are those with a forged washer and reduced size hexagon head.
A few weeks ago I decided to replace the front anti roll bar bushes and each clamp securing the bushes is retained by two M8 bolts. Instead of the hexagon being 13mm A/F they are 10mm A/F and were rusted away. Tried the usual dodges...hammering on a slightly smaller socket, hammer and chisel, Plus Gas not WD40 etc to no avail. In the end I had to drill the bolts out after removing the front subframe. I replaced these bolts with "Proper" hex. head bolts and washers.
Yesterday, decided to renew the fuel filter (Easy job :)), rear brake shoes and both handbrake cables. Guess what ??...the M8 bolts securing the cables to the rear crossmember, which have these "Mickey Mouse" heads are rusted solid and the hexagon has rusted away on both of them :eek:
So it's out with the drill and taps again and I will replace them with "Proper" bolts, well coated with copper grease.

Rant over.......:5bbeatdeadhorse5::bolt:
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the posts with the proper sizes for replacement! Much cheaper then buying a bolts and flying it across the pond for me!
 
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