Shuttle valve mod question

Hi all,

i'm going to do "option B" mod on my shuttle valve, i was wondering is it worth using an econoseal type connector for this or just solder directly to the yellow/green wire from the ABS pump, also is 1mm wire suitable or do i need something thicker?

Thanks in advance,

Neil.

Soldered mine. Think I used .75mm2 for mine. Might have even been .5mm2 but has been perfect ever since, probably about 2 1/2yrs since it was done.

As @swatts70 has said and as I have done, permanent wiring will do. Once the mod has been done, the chances of having to remove the switch plate ever again are reduced to negligable.
Regarding the gauge of wire, 0.5 sq mm will do, The lowest value of resistance in the shuttle valve switch circuit is 1000 ohms which will result in a maximum current of 12 mA. The wiring here is more of a signal wire than a heavy current carrying wire.

I used one of these connectors which came complete with wires and shrink wrap.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pc-kit-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I had to solder the wires to the cut wires at the original connector and at the wire in the harness. The only advantage of having a connector is if you need to change the shuttle valve connector if it does actually fail. If I ever had to do it again I probably wouldn't bother with a connector. Have had no trouble since.

brianconwy said:

I used one of these connectors which came complete with wires and shrink wrap.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pc-kit-2-pin-way-car-waterproof-electrical-connectors-plug-with-wire/112233499255?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I had to solder the wires to the cut wires at the original connector and at the wire in the harness. The only advantage of having a connector is if you need to change the shuttle valve connector if it does actually fail. If I ever had to do it again I probably wouldn't bother with a connector. Have had no trouble since.

Click to expand...

econoseal

I'd just like to say thank you for the tips and advice for this job, now done, i decided to solder directly to the loom rather than introduce another connector. just got to change the front right sensor (or hub assembly) now.