Setting pump lift with DTi

Have never messed with a LR Tdi engine (yet!)..........

On VW IDI engines we used to increase it from .9 to 1mm. Is there any similar increases/changes over and above factory any one has used to effect?

Erm......what?

Sorry chap, which bit dont you understand?

TERRYDONTSURF said:

Sorry chap, which bit dont you understand?

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Errrrrrrrrmmmmmmmmmm for me all of it

Do a search for tuning 300Tdi pump and you'll find all the info you need.

Use the search facility you say? Now, that never occured to me, thanks for offering the advice

Its not really 'tuning' in the strictest sense (or certainly what it is commonly referred to on forums for pump tuning)

The Bosch VE pumps have a port on the back where you can plug in a DTi (dial test indicator) to set the pump timing properly.

I *think* its should be 1.54 ish but, as per previous post, VW IDIs ( non tdi VWs ie mechanical Tds) respond well to increasing lift from .9mm to 1mm. Slight advance in timing, makes starting a tad easier and a tad more power- obviously the there is always a trade off, mpg being one of them but is negligable.

Am wondering as to if anyone has tried increasing/advancing it slightly to say 1.6 or 1.65 etc?

I don't think its that simple if you've got a 300 with a brain.

It hasnt, its a glorified Mtdi

Well you seem to know what your on about. Go and have a fiddle and see what you can do.

TERRYDONTSURF said:

Have never messed with a LR Tdi engine (yet!)..........

On VW IDI engines we used to increase it from .9 to 1mm. Is there any similar increases/changes over and above factory any one has used to effect?

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Yea I have advanced and retarded the timing on bosh vp44 and bosh inclines pump

Spill timing I have adjusted on many vp44 on dosan loading shovels with cummins engine as when you get the fuel pump new it's locked out at 20 degrees before tdc but it really needs to 18 degrees and they have a tendency to black smoke but adjusting them 0.004" gives it that bit it needs

But have not tuned any pumps smaller that vp44 on 6cyl 5.9 cummins

MPfive said:

Well you seem to know what your on about. Go and have a fiddle and see what you can do.

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Now that would be too easy....................

Think most people tweak the timing on pumps using smaller diameter rods through the cover on the timing case. Reducing the size of the rod from 9mm to 8.5mm then checking for diesel knock, if ok then go from 8.5 to 8mm again checking for diesel knock etc...... until diesel knock starts - then moving back up a rod diameter.

Tuning the pump to the engine for optimum pump timing without diesel knock

DEFENDER90-DAZ said:

Think most people tweak the timing on pumps using smaller diameter rods through the cover on the timing case. Reducing the size of the rod from 9mm to 8.5mm then checking for diesel knock, if ok then go from 8.5 to 8mm again checking for diesel knock etc...... until diesel knock starts - then moving back up a rod diameter.

Tuning the pump to the engine for optimum pump timing without diesel knock

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Has anyone done the maths to work out how many degrees/increase in plunger lift that would give?(easy enough if you know distance of hole from pump centre)

When i was young and poor used to do it by tapping/moving pump body to advance it until it started knocking, then tapped it back a bit.

Yep you can tap it round a bit.................. but using different diameter rods (drill bits) you can be far more accurate in your advancing of the pump.........

Far too complicated. Just turn it up till it smokes :lol:

Glb8686 said:

Far too complicated. Just turn it up till it smokes :lol:

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like your way of thinking!

If it smokes, its nowt to do with nozzle size or pump settings, just means the turbo is too small

Using smaller 'rods' gives no quantifiable adjustment, no more than scoring pump body/mount and give it the sort of tap you save for Doris when she finishes the last of the Bucky! (only advantage being you cant move it too far). Only quantifiable way of doing it takes us back to using the Dti.

make sense chap?

Well you do what you want mate..........
Most people use the drill bit method for optimum pump timing and then tweak the pumps power (info in another thread i posted in this section)

TERRYDONTSURF said:

like your way of thinking!

If it smokes, its nowt to do with nozzle size or pump settings, just means the turbo is too small

Using smaller 'rods' gives no quantifiable adjustment, no more than scoring pump body/mount and give it the sort of tap you save for Doris when she finishes the last of the Bucky! (only advantage being you cant move it too far). Only quantifiable way of doing it takes us back to using the Dti.

make sense chap?

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Then why not just do it and report back.

DEFENDER90-DAZ said:

Well you do what you want mate..........
Most people use the drill bit method for optimum pump timing and then tweak the pumps power (info in another thread i posted in this section)

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Cheers for your input chap. I think i am asking fairly reqsonable/sensible Qs- no need to get emotional over it.
Am au fiat with how to tinker with the pump settings, was just hoping that someone, somewhere would have an actual quantifiable number. Increasing plunger lift to 1.6 is less than 4%ish. By using 'rods' of various sizes that could be put in at different angles ( not withstanding numerous parallax angles I'd instructions were given) then it becomes all a bit unrefined and the 'optimal' that is spoken of becomes all a bit haphazard.
We haven't even started on pulse timing yet

Soloby Rob said:

Then why not just do it and report back.

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Blimey, you lot up on blocks this week?

It would appear in the absence of anyone else doing it, one will have to.
Done with dti or pulse?

Not getting emotional about anything......

You asked a question - i answered with the explanation of what people usually do to adjust the timing on bosch ve pumps fitted to landrovers using inexpensive drill bits.......

After all we aren't tuning the afterburner on the space shuttle