Series wheel nuts

  • Thread starter Richard Brookman
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Richard Brookman

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I've fitted a set of silver modulars to the Series 2a (to go with the
235/85s), using the original wheel nuts. The nuts don't seem to seat
properly in the holes in the rims, and even fully tightened there is
about 2-3mm of thread inside the nut that is still visible. They are
on at the unofficial torque setting (effin tight), and after a few
miles they seem to be staying tight. However, I have identical wheels
on the trialler (90 axles and nuts) and the nuts seat correctly on
that. Are series wheel nuts a different shape (i.e. a different
taper), or have I missed something?

Anyone know the correct torque setting, BTW?

Cheers

Rich
Series 2a 88"
RR 4.6 V8
Tiggrr V8 trialler
The rest
 
Richard Brookman wrote:

> I've fitted a set of silver modulars to the Series 2a (to go with the
> 235/85s), using the original wheel nuts. The nuts don't seem to seat
> properly in the holes in the rims, and even fully tightened there is
> about 2-3mm of thread inside the nut that is still visible. They are
> on at the unofficial torque setting (effin tight), and after a few
> miles they seem to be staying tight. However, I have identical wheels
> on the trialler (90 axles and nuts) and the nuts seat correctly on
> that. Are series wheel nuts a different shape (i.e. a different
> taper), or have I missed something?
>
> Anyone know the correct torque setting, BTW?
>
> Cheers
>
> Rich
> Series 2a 88"
> RR 4.6 V8
> Tiggrr V8 trialler
> The rest
Series wheel studs come in two varieties - 9/16BSF up to S2a and 16mm S3.
There are three varieties of nut - double sided 9/16BSF up to very late
S2a, Single sided 9/16BSF with 26mm AF (rare) very late S2a, and 16mm,
26mmAF, S3, same as 90/110 & Defender (except alloy wheels and Wolf).

I would guess that what you are noticing is the different nuts/studs - I
think the single sided nuts are designed for thicker wheels than the double
sided ones, although even with the standard wheels the double sided nuts
extend slightly beyond the end of the studs.
JD
 
JD wrote:
> Richard Brookman wrote:
>
>> I've fitted a set of silver modulars to the Series 2a (to go with the
>> 235/85s), using the original wheel nuts. The nuts don't seem to seat
>> properly in the holes in the rims, and even fully tightened there is
>> about 2-3mm of thread inside the nut that is still visible. They are
>> on at the unofficial torque setting (effin tight), and after a few
>> miles they seem to be staying tight. However, I have identical
>> wheels on the trialler (90 axles and nuts) and the nuts seat
>> correctly on that. Are series wheel nuts a different shape (i.e. a
>> different taper), or have I missed something?
>>
>> Anyone know the correct torque setting, BTW?
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Rich
>> Series 2a 88"
>> RR 4.6 V8
>> Tiggrr V8 trialler
>> The rest
> Series wheel studs come in two varieties - 9/16BSF up to S2a and 16mm
> S3. There are three varieties of nut - double sided 9/16BSF up to
> very late S2a, Single sided 9/16BSF with 26mm AF (rare) very late
> S2a, and 16mm, 26mmAF, S3, same as 90/110 & Defender (except alloy
> wheels and Wolf).
>
> I would guess that what you are noticing is the different nuts/studs
> - I think the single sided nuts are designed for thicker wheels than
> the double sided ones, although even with the standard wheels the
> double sided nuts extend slightly beyond the end of the studs.
> JD

Blimey! I just though they were wheel nuts! I haven't measured them, but
to the eye they look identical to the ones on the 90. With the original
6.00 rims they were more or less flush, which is why I thought they might be
wrong. I don't get the single/double sided business (they just look like
wheel nuts), but what it looks like to me is that they need a slightly
steeper taper so that they seat more completely in the hole in the rim. At
the moment thay are not fully inside, if you know what I mean. Any idea on
the torque setting? Haynes is silent.

--

Rich

Series 2a
RR 4.6
V8 trialler
dog, wife, kids, whatever


 
>> Series wheel studs come in two varieties - 9/16BSF up to S2a and 16mm
>> S3. There are three varieties of nut - double sided 9/16BSF up to
>> very late S2a, Single sided 9/16BSF with 26mm AF (rare) very late
>> S2a, and 16mm, 26mmAF, S3, same as 90/110 & Defender (except alloy
>> wheels and Wolf).
>>
>> I would guess that what you are noticing is the different nuts/studs
>> - I think the single sided nuts are designed for thicker wheels than
>> the double sided ones, although even with the standard wheels the
>> double sided nuts extend slightly beyond the end of the studs.
>> JD
>
>Blimey! I just though they were wheel nuts! I haven't measured them, but
>to the eye they look identical to the ones on the 90. With the original
>6.00 rims they were more or less flush, which is why I thought they might be
>wrong. I don't get the single/double sided business (they just look like
>wheel nuts),

SII and early IIA have wheelnuts with tapers on both ends, so it
doesn't matter which way round you put the nut on.

Alex
 
On or around Thu, 09 Sep 2004 21:42:49 +1000, JD <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>and 16mm,
>26mmAF, S3, same as 90/110 & Defender

ITYM 27mm. they are on mine, anyway, both the "steel wheel" nuts and the
"alloy wheel" ones.

 
Austin Shackles wrote:

>
> ITYM 27mm. they are on mine, anyway, both the "steel wheel" nuts and the
> "alloy wheel" ones.

I think you're right Austin - 1 1/16" socket fits which is 27mm.


--
EMB
change two to number to reply
 
On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 09:11:27 +1200, EMB <[email protected]> wrote:

>Austin Shackles wrote:
>
>>
>> ITYM 27mm. they are on mine, anyway, both the "steel wheel" nuts and the
>> "alloy wheel" ones.
>
>I think you're right Austin - 1 1/16" socket fits which is 27mm.

Indeed, the earlier ones are 15/16". I tend to carry both with my
wheelbrace.

Alex
 

> I've fitted a set of silver modulars to the Series 2a (to go with the
> 235/85s), using the original wheel nuts. The nuts don't seem to seat
> properly in the holes in the rims, and even fully tightened there is
> about 2-3mm of thread inside the nut that is still visible. They are
> on at the unofficial torque setting (effin tight), and after a few
> miles they seem to be staying tight. However, I have identical wheels
> on the trialler (90 axles and nuts) and the nuts seat correctly on
> that. Are series wheel nuts a different shape (i.e. a different
> taper), or have I missed something?

Seems that everyone has gone off at a tangent here...
It's not the wheel nuts that have been changed - just the wheels!

Try comparing the two wheels. There are also different stud lengths
around which could explain the difference between the trailler and the 2A.

David

 

> I've fitted a set of silver modulars to the Series 2a (to go with the
> 235/85s), using the original wheel nuts. The nuts don't seem to seat
> properly in the holes in the rims, and even fully tightened there is
> about 2-3mm of thread inside the nut that is still visible. They are
> on at the unofficial torque setting (effin tight), and after a few
> miles they seem to be staying tight. However, I have identical wheels
> on the trialler (90 axles and nuts) and the nuts seat correctly on
> that. Are series wheel nuts a different shape (i.e. a different
> taper), or have I missed something?

Seems that everyone has gone off at a tangent here...
It's not the wheel nuts that have been changed - just the wheels!

Try comparing the two wheels. There are also different stud lengths
around which could explain the difference between the trialler and the 2A.

David



 
> I've fitted a set of silver modulars to the Series 2a (to go with the
> 235/85s), using the original wheel nuts. The nuts don't seem to seat
> properly in the holes in the rims, and even fully tightened there is
> about 2-3mm of thread inside the nut that is still visible. They are
> on at the unofficial torque setting (effin tight), and after a few
> miles they seem to be staying tight. However, I have identical wheels
> on the trialler (90 axles and nuts) and the nuts seat correctly on
> that. Are series wheel nuts a different shape (i.e. a different
> taper), or have I missed something?
>
> Anyone know the correct torque setting, BTW?
>
> Cheers
> Rich

Seems that everyone has gone off at a tangent here...
It's not the wheel nuts that have been changed - just the wheels!

Try comparing the two wheels. There are also different stud lengths
around which could explain the difference between the trialler and the 2A.

David

 
On or around Fri, 10 Sep 2004 09:11:27 +1200, EMB <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Shackles wrote:
>
>>
>> ITYM 27mm. they are on mine, anyway, both the "steel wheel" nuts and the
>> "alloy wheel" ones.
>
>I think you're right Austin - 1 1/16" socket fits which is 27mm.

I use a 27mm diesel injector socket, mainly 'cos I had it for getting some
injectors out of something. But it's ideal for wheelnuts, being a deep
single-hex one.

 
Alex wrote:
>>> Series wheel studs come in two varieties - 9/16BSF up to S2a and
>>> 16mm S3. There are three varieties of nut - double sided 9/16BSF up
>>> to very late S2a, Single sided 9/16BSF with 26mm AF (rare) very late
>>> S2a, and 16mm, 26mmAF, S3, same as 90/110 & Defender (except alloy
>>> wheels and Wolf).
>>>
>>> I would guess that what you are noticing is the different nuts/studs
>>> - I think the single sided nuts are designed for thicker wheels than
>>> the double sided ones, although even with the standard wheels the
>>> double sided nuts extend slightly beyond the end of the studs.
>>> JD
>>
>> Blimey! I just though they were wheel nuts! I haven't measured
>> them, but to the eye they look identical to the ones on the 90.
>> With the original
>> 6.00 rims they were more or less flush, which is why I thought they
>> might be wrong. I don't get the single/double sided business (they
>> just look like wheel nuts),
>
> SII and early IIA have wheelnuts with tapers on both ends, so it
> doesn't matter which way round you put the nut on.
>
> Alex

Ah, thanks. This is a (very) late 2a, built on the last day of series 2
production. It has "normal" wheel nuts, with a taper on one side only.

--

Rich

Series 2a
RR 4.6
V8 trialler
dog, wife, kids, whatever


 
Dougal wrote:
>> I've fitted a set of silver modulars to the Series 2a (to go with the
>> 235/85s), using the original wheel nuts. The nuts don't seem to seat
>> properly in the holes in the rims, and even fully tightened there is
>> about 2-3mm of thread inside the nut that is still visible. They are
>> on at the unofficial torque setting (effin tight), and after a few
>> miles they seem to be staying tight. However, I have identical
>> wheels on the trialler (90 axles and nuts) and the nuts seat
>> correctly on that. Are series wheel nuts a different shape (i.e. a
>> different taper), or have I missed something?
>
> Seems that everyone has gone off at a tangent here...
> It's not the wheel nuts that have been changed - just the wheels!
>
> Try comparing the two wheels. There are also different stud lengths
> around which could explain the difference between the trailler and
> the 2A.
>
> David

Hi David.

Stud lengths may be different (haven't checked, it's raining) and the new
wheels are made of thicker metal, so this may account for some of it.
However, and I perhaps should have made this clearer in my OP, the series
nuts are not seating properly in the holes in the rim. As you screw them
on, the outer edge of the nut contacts the rim first and that's where all
the pressure is when they are fully tight. The tapers don't seem to match,
which is why I asked if series wheel nuts were a different shape from the
later ones.

--

Rich

Series 2a
RR 4.6
V8 trialler
dog, wife, kids, whatever


 
On or around Fri, 10 Sep 2004 08:58:51 +0000 (UTC), "Richard Brookman"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Stud lengths may be different (haven't checked, it's raining) and the new
>wheels are made of thicker metal, so this may account for some of it.
>However, and I perhaps should have made this clearer in my OP, the series
>nuts are not seating properly in the holes in the rim. As you screw them
>on, the outer edge of the nut contacts the rim first and that's where all
>the pressure is when they are fully tight. The tapers don't seem to match,
>which is why I asked if series wheel nuts were a different shape from the
>later ones.

I had some white 8-spokes on the 110, and they were a) thicker material and
b) had much less of a taper on 'em. They seemed to stay on though.

and WRT whoever was asking for wheelnut torque - on the later (16mm) ones I
tend to use 100 ft-lb. buggered if I know what the book says.

 
Richard Brookman wrote:

> The tapers don't seem to match, which is why I asked if series
> wheel nuts were a different shape from the later ones.

AFAIK not as my LR parts supplier only stocks one wheelnut for the
metric Series and Defender.



--
EMB
change two to number to reply
 

>>
>> Try comparing the two wheels. There are also different stud lengths
>> around which could explain the difference between the trailler and
>> the 2A.
>>
>> David
>
>Hi David.
>
>Stud lengths may be different (haven't checked, it's raining) and the new
>wheels are made of thicker metal, so this may account for some of it.
>However, and I perhaps should have made this clearer in my OP, the series
>nuts are not seating properly in the holes in the rim. As you screw them
>on, the outer edge of the nut contacts the rim first and that's where all
>the pressure is when they are fully tight. The tapers don't seem to match,
>which is why I asked if series wheel nuts were a different shape from the
>later ones.

I'm trying to remember wether I had this problem with my 8-spokes when
they were on my IIA, they're now on my later III, which has the later
nuts anyway.

I'd get a spare wheelnut and adjust the taper with an angle grinder,
if I was that worried.

Alex
 
On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 20:57:27 GMT, Alex <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I'm trying to remember wether I had this problem with my 8-spokes when
>they were on my IIA, they're now on my later III, which has the later
>nuts anyway.

My 8 spokes seem to stay in place, and seat properly. I have one 2A
axle, and one series 3, and have never noitced any difference in how
they go on.
(the 2A axle has double ended nuts until i get round to swapping them
for a set of single sided ones).

>I'd get a spare wheelnut and adjust the taper with an angle grinder,
>if I was that worried.

 
Tom Woods wrote:
>
>> I'd get a spare wheelnut and adjust the taper with an angle grinder,
>> if I was that worried.

OK, it stopped raining, so I went out and checked. The S2a nuts are
*identical* to the 90, so it must just be that the studs are shorter. The
polished area of the nuts suggests that they are seating properly after
all - although they still look "wrong". Thanks for the suggestions.

BTW, given the difficulty of getting an angle grinder to reshape something
as small as a wheelnut, and multiply by 20, I can't think of a worse way of
spending a weekend :)

--

Rich

Series 2a
RR 4.6
V8 trialler
dog, wife, kids, whatever


 
EMB wrote:
> Richard Brookman wrote:
>
>> The tapers don't seem to match, which is why I asked if series
> > wheel nuts were a different shape from the later ones.
>
> AFAIK not as my LR parts supplier only stocks one wheelnut for the
> metric Series and Defender.

Cheers - issue filed as "just one of those things".

--

Rich

Series 2a
RR 4.6
V8 trialler
dog, wife, kids, whatever


 
In message <[email protected]>
"Richard Brookman" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Tom Woods wrote:
> >
> >> I'd get a spare wheelnut and adjust the taper with an angle grinder,
> >> if I was that worried.
>
> OK, it stopped raining, so I went out and checked. The S2a nuts are
> *identical* to the 90, so it must just be that the studs are shorter. The
> polished area of the nuts suggests that they are seating properly after
> all - although they still look "wrong". Thanks for the suggestions.
>
> BTW, given the difficulty of getting an angle grinder to reshape something
> as small as a wheelnut, and multiply by 20, I can't think of a worse way of
> spending a weekend :)
>
Especially for the saving of 7.28 inc VAT! ;-)

Richard
--
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