Series 2a Wiring

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
C7BA51BD-8563-46CA-8418-701750B8B9FB.jpeg
 
This was it fitted and no probs with interference on bonnet stay, the height was to top of connector post and of course there is plastic covers go over the connections if you wish to stop shorting
Re amperage of course mine is diesel so wanted a heavy duty one, as yours is petrol the crank load would be less as less compression and no heater plugs so the smaller amps should not think a problem
Batteries prob been well discussed on here if you want further opinions but I liked the 5yr guarantee with yuasa
D9A46CE4-A5CE-41CC-AA0A-4FCB7B936627.png
 
This was it fitted and no probs with interference on bonnet stay, the height was to top of connector post and of course there is plastic covers go over the connections if you wish to stop shorting
Re amperage of course mine is diesel so wanted a heavy duty one, as yours is petrol the crank load would be less as less compression and no heater plugs so the smaller amps should not think a problem
Batteries prob been well discussed on here if you want further opinions but I liked the 5yr guarantee with yuasaView attachment 270201
Thanks, was going to order it but now it says it is not suitable for my vehicle but these 2 are. Car Batteries | Halfords UK
 
Two fuse box one for ignition fed circuits and one for aux fed circuit ,the battery you require does not have to be as large as mine ,I went for the largest that would fit mine as it's a diesel the battery you would require is a 069 I believehttps://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/enduroline/069/
Thanks just ordered 2 will pick up some decent leads from halfords today what's best place to run the 2 thick battery leads positive and negative to vehicle ?
 
I chose to run positive lead along the rear of the engine bay to the starter solenoid( Pre -engaged so on the starter motor) ,a negative ground lead from the starter to chassis and the battery negative lead bolted to diesel filter bracket on the top of the engine .Bothe cable routed through plastic
new entry point.JPG
battery positive lead route along bulkhead.JPG
starter and alternator signal plug.JPG
20220725_094835.jpg
tubing
 
I chose to run positive lead along the rear of the engine bay to the starter solenoid( Pre -engaged so on the starter motor) ,a negative ground lead from the starter to chassis and the battery negative lead bolted to diesel filter bracket on the top of the engine .Bothe cable routed through plastic View attachment 270224 View attachment 270225 View attachment 270226 View attachment 270227 tubing
My starter only has one bolt on, at the moment there is 2 thick wires on it going to Alt and another going to Solenoid, Could I still put the main Positive one from battery to it, or would that be to much, I will still have another positive going from Solenoid to battery .
 

Attachments

  • 20220719_182931 (2).jpg
    20220719_182931 (2).jpg
    273.6 KB · Views: 46
The alternator cable must go to the starter solenoid battery side not to the starter, the starter cable goes to the starter solenoid none battery side only active when solenoid engaged to crank engine
Negative ground on starter fixing bolt to chassis .
battery then connected to engine or nearest point on chassis ,you can use the engine
20220719_182931 (2) (1).jpg
 
The alternator cable must go to the starter solenoid battery side not to the starter, the starter cable goes to the starter solenoid none battery side only active when solenoid engaged to crank engine
Negative ground on starter fixing bolt to chassis .
battery then connected to engine or nearest point on chassis ,you can use the engineView attachment 270229
Thank You so only the one wire going to starter red arrow in pic. ? I will use the positive from battery to Solenoid battery side
 
My God you are Good. Pictures say it all Mate.
Done that tonight forgot about the short earth from alt bolt to chassis will do that tomorrow, went for the halfords battery bigger then it looks in pics but fits fine.
Starts up off key everytime, Alt seems to be working, when off 12.8/9 when running 14 .2
Please excuse my shoddy wiring just testing things but when all in and done will tidy things up.
Hoping to get my fuse boxes by weekend then will have a go at wiring rest of panel up. still studying youre diagrams.
Thanks Again Mate
 

Attachments

  • 20220727_184617.jpg
    20220727_184617.jpg
    274.6 KB · Views: 68
  • 20220727_195444.jpg
    20220727_195444.jpg
    375.6 KB · Views: 69
Just my preference but I would mount the starter solenoid with the terminals at the bottom just stops any tools parts etc dropping on the terminals and shorting out
 
Thanks Again starting to get my head round it the more I look. still not sure about a couple of bits so please excuse me if I get stuck, or when I get stuck.
Still Waiting on fuse boxes and light switch, should hopefully be here tomorrow.
Does the whole dash panel have to be earthed to bulkhead, ?
Do the 2 fuse boxes have to be joined ?
My charge warning light in middle does not light up, it has little tiny blade connectors on cant get anything on there.
 
the two fuse board are not linked ,one is ignition fed items and the other is aux (battery fed items isolated when the ignition switch is off) .yes the dash has to be earthed as do the gauges to the dash best not to rely on the gauge clamps
would like a image of said charge warning light to see what the problem is
 
the two fuse board are not linked ,one is ignition fed items and the other is aux (battery fed items isolated when the ignition switch is off) .yes the dash has to be earthed as do the gauges to the dash best not to rely on the gauge clamps
would like a image of said charge warning light to see what the problem is
Gauges are earthed to panel, where do I run an earth from Dash panel to Bulkhead? Pic of charge light little tiny connections.
 

Attachments

  • 20220722_184453~2.jpg
    20220722_184453~2.jpg
    96.3 KB · Views: 52
Back
Top