Series 2a Wiring

mystery said:

you would take red feed from the washer push button to either green feed on wiper switch using a piggyback crimp or off the ignition fuse box to the push button , black from washer push button to washer pump (other side of pump to ground) where are you going to fix it passengers bulkhead side .

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Finally got it fitted today, put the bottle on passenger side where the original would have been, wired it up to earth then switch/ button to one of the wires on wiper switch as you said, it worked great, Thanks Again.
Had my first go round the field, only got it in to second gear , just a small field after a good half hour the temp gauge was nearly at the Red again, did not loose any water though so still not sure whats going on with the heating. Think I need to give it a run down the road to see how it goes but need the brakes bleeding again first.
Heater was turned off all the time but it was like a bloody furnace in the cab, is this normal ?

what was the reading on your temp gun, when you say you have turned heater of is that by the gate valve on the rear of the engine

mystery said:

what was the reading on your temp gun, when you say you have turned heater of is that by the gate valve on the rear of the engine

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Left the gun at home so did not get a reading, heater was just turned off at switch in cab, the tap in engine bay is On so water will or should be running through it, I think ?

so the cab will get hot the switch is just for the fan ,on the series 3 the heater has a cable operated valve to shut of the water flowing through the heater

mystery said:

so the cab will get hot the switch is just for the fan ,on the series 3 the heater has a cable operated valve to shut of the water flowing through the heater

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Mine is 2a there is a tap in engine bay connected to the hoses going in and out of heater, it is turned on at the moment.
Will try temp readings with gun tomorrow at what Temp should I be getting in to the Danger zone, so I know when to turn it off ?

I think the normal temp is around 83 to 90 + but if it overheats it should throw coolant out of the radiator cap providing the cap is the correct one
I think this should be 16 PSI normal running at 15 PSI ,I mentioned the series 3 cable operated valve but as you say the series 2 has a gate valve hence the heater getting hot

just looked on ebay and they are saying a series 2 cap is 10 PSI will have a look at mine sometime

mystery said:

just looked on ebay and they are saying a series 2 cap is 10 PSI will have a look at mine sometime

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Will check to see what cap I have

After about half hour temp gauge goes up to red , Not loosing any water, heaters work. brand new rad thermostat and all hoses.
Water does not seem to be running through the top hose , then again I could be wrong. not sure if there is Air in it or if there is how to flush it out.
Started it up this morning from cold and got these readings from Infared thermometer. .
first readings after 25 minuets. second half hour

Thermostat 75. 94
top hose 60 70
bottom hose 50. 64

top rad 58. 77
bottom rad 49. 57

Needle was on the N half way at 15 mins, and half hour just under the red in pic, thought I had better turn it off before it got any higher.

looking at the reading I would change thermostat or at least check it's opening ,the stat temp is that on the housing or is it just the info
My diesel rad cap 9 PSI(H9)

mystery said:

looking at the reading I would change thermostat or at least check it's opening ,the stat temp is that on the housing or is it just the info
My diesel rad cap 9 PSI(H9)

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Have checked stat and it does open as it should, the readings for it were on the housing.
not sure what my cap is but here is pic.

I would say 10psi. Going on the stamped LBS 10.

J

as marjon 10PSI have you tried running it with the gate valve for the heater shut to see if this affects the running temperature ,normally the control valve is on the the flow pipe from the thermostat housing
but looking at your image it's on the rear of the engine on the return to block hose, it's worth trying

This is tap that runs in to heater in cab, do you mean turn this off and try /

Yes worth trying

mystery said:

Yes worth trying

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Will give it a go but To be honest I have tried everything as this was brought up a while ago ,
Now when I bought the engine it had been fully rebuilt by the MOD BUT the front 8 blade 24 volt fan was damaged ie bent to f!!ck, was not bothered as plan was to change everything to 12 volt, now I remember one day I was taking my time to get this bent fan off when Mate walked in and siad give me a go, the thing would not budge so in the end he actually hacked it off with an Axe True Story.
Mentinied before that I dont think water is going through top hose or Very little if Any,
So now I am thinking should I try a new water pump just to satisfy my curiosity.

Just a thought can the fan be put on the wrong way round? Would it make a diff?

J

It maybe the fan unit as you say it had a eight blade electric fan and you have fitted a four blade fan,
it's a pity the defender 200TDI fan unit cannot be adapted to fit but that a major tasks
if you have a leaf blower and point it at the rad and the temperature drops to normal temp this would prove the fan require altering
I know that you can adapt the 8 blade military fan unit to fit

Well please forgive me but now I do not think it is fan or water pump as it does seem to be circulating the water as it should.
Tried again this morning with tap closed but although I didnt let it get to hot it was rising as before.
Then tried again later with burping the system with one of these methods,
Now this worked better temps much lower then the ones above and when the stat got to around 85 which would have opened by then it kept a steady temp at between 82 and 85 not getting any higher then 85. and this was ran at a good 45 minutes too seemed to get a lot of air bubbles out so will fire it up in the morning with rad cap on and see what it does then.
Not getting my hopes up but you never know.

Tried running it tonight Without NO thermostat but just the same temperature rising all the way up to 90s. Does this rule anything out or give anyone more clues as to what the problem can be ?