Series 2 disco with transmission temp problem

Hi
I've not long had my series 2 (td5 auto) I got it to replace an unreliable Jeep Grand Cherokee. I've had a few teething problems with it, got it spares or repairs as the garage was sure it needed a new gearbox, however the price was right and with a few squirts of wd40 on the wastegate the auto box changed gear well, and we have been very happy with it. However I bought it with the intention of using it to tow but whenever we do tow with it, the transmission temp warning light comes on, stays on and eventually makes the car boil up, it tends to happen if you dip below 35mph, I just wondered if anyone might know why that would be??? All advice gratefully received!!
Claire

do they have oil cooler behind the front bumper like the r/r ?

I'm really not sure, I think the transmission oil pipe runs near to the rad pipes and cools that way??

could be a cooler problem, some 1 will be along soon who'll know a lot more than me

There are positions for two oil coolers in front of the radiator, one for the gearbox (manual or auto) and one for the engine.

If the gearbox is outputing enough heat to make the engine boil over, then there is a serious fault with the gearbox, engine or both.

Depending on mileage, if the brake bands are slipping continuously in the box, or the fluid flywheel has a problem, then you'll need to get it sorted before it gets damaged even worse.

The sort of heat you are talking about sounds quite extraordinary, and I'd have thought that the oil temperature light would have come on before it got that bad.

If you haven't got the oil temp light coming on, then you may not have a gearbox fault at all, just a poor cooling system. Check that coolant is 50/50 mix of OAT coolant, and all the usual things like hoses etc etc.

Peter

think i would be calling these they are help full and wont try sell you a new box unless they think you need it Ashcroft Transmissions

Hi
Thanks for all your advice, perhaps I should be more specific in case that helps shed more light on the problem, a friend usually does the repairs but is reluctant to this time as he thinks it is the weight of the trailor etc that is causing the problem. Previously my car had a problem maintaining it's temp but after replacing the thermostat, temp sensor and the rad pipe assembly this has now been sorted and has done 2000 odd miles with no problem, but during this the engine coolant was put back in but at less than 50 50 mix (soon to be rectified). Not long after that we tried to tow the trailor for the first time a journey of about 40miles and about 2.5T weight after about 15 miles the transmission temp warning light came on, we pulled over to let it cool but it didn't really work, so we carried on, and oddly once we got on to a faster road the light went out. On the way home we had all the slow bit of the journey at the end so once again the light came on but this time stayed on (not sure why) then the car went into get you home mode, and eventually the temp started to go up, at which point we stopped but probably should have done so a lot sooner, the car lost a little water but I think it was perhaps the get you home mode thing that made us stop completely I guess the car was telling us to stop and allow everything to cool. The next day with a top up of water and no trailor the car behaved as usual on it's 50 mile morning commute, and was fine afterwards.

The next time we tried to tow the same thing happened, however this time it was noticeable that the warning light would go out if you towed at 35mph+ for more than about 10 mins, speeds slower than this either saw the warning light flicker on and off or stay on for short bursts, but the engine temp behaved itself, on the return journey the same happened, so to stop it getting too bad we unloaded everything, as soon as the disco was free of the load the warning light went off and all was well. In addition to this there is a high pitched wittering noise (possibly the fan?) which only seems to happen under acceleration (don't know if that is related) and when towing the car does seem to labour a little to change gear around 20mph but I just thought that could be normal for a diesel. Since buying it I've done about 3000 miles in it with all gear changes seeming to be fine, and the engine seems fine (after the thermostat problem) It's jut this towing thing, I know the coolant isn't at 50:50 mix, and that it has got a slightly different auto oil in the transmission/gearbox but we were assured by marshalls that it was good stuff. Does this help with any further ideas????????
Thanks

i have a similar problem too. I get my geartemp light on too. I pulled a trailer other day which resulted in the light coming on, it went off at higher speed. When she locked up at 52, its fine. Think its because there is no slipping, which is what creates the heat. Further to this, i spent alot of time in the alps, long hills got the temp light on even at say -5c. It seemed better when i kept the revs up to about 3000rpm, apparently less slipping of box at higher RPM. My mechanic thinks it might be dodgy temp sensor, im not sure, and failing that he thinks its prob the gearbox starting to show signs of age (105000m Not alot in my opinion). Funny thing is though that the oil has always been clear, not brown or burnt smell so maybe sensor. Its only temp sensor, not linked to thermostat so shoudlnt control anything else.

In your case your engine is getting hot too. Either the gear oil is super hot and over heating coolant, which has to be seriously hot, or possibly the thermostat on the engine is sticking as well as the hot gearbox oil resulting the the coolant getting hot.

In my D1 Owner's Handbook states that the lamp illumation is most likely to occur in hot weather during continuous high speed driving, or whilst towing heavy loads on steep inclines or if the handbrake has been applied while driving.

So it does happen.

yep, the D2 auto says the same. I could find this acceptable, however in my case i pull a 700Kg trailer on normal roads in 20c outside temp, not a 3.5 ton, up a mountain in 35c heat. So i find it hard to believe its working correctly.

Hi
Yep I read the same in the owners manual, I'm sure probably means in exceptional circumstances though, I think from everyone's help the cooling system and or the gearbox could be a fault, does anyone know of a good garage for this in the Cambridge/Peterborough area???
Thanks
Claire

Ashcroft is definately the way forward if you have a knackered box, i think alot of garages use them anyway - I know my local indie in Cornwall uses them to supply them with recon boxes etc.

Its definately worth finding an indie you can trust, could be the difference between a huge bill and a stupid little fault.

Good luck

If Claire is going to be towing heavy loads regularly, the problem isn't going to go away, and it is within the limits of the vehicle set by Land Rover.

Airflow over the radiator is obviously crucial, and low speed driving isn't getting sufficient heat out of the radiator, so the radiator core needs to be checked for blockage on the air side (leaves, thistle fluff etc) and also the water side needs checking. If there are any big spotlights in front of the radiator, take them off.

We did look at an export spec radiator for our Disco 2 V8, but the new LR price is prohibitive.

Peter

listerdiesel said:

If Claire is going to be towing heavy loads regularly, the problem isn't going to go away, and it is within the limits of the vehicle set by Land Rover.

Airflow over the radiator is obviously crucial, and low speed driving isn't getting sufficient heat out of the radiator, so the radiator core needs to be checked for blockage on the air side (leaves, thistle fluff etc) and also the water side needs checking. If there are any big spotlights in front of the radiator, take them off.

We did look at an export spec radiator for our Disco 2 V8, but the new LR price is prohibitive.

Peter

Click to expand...

Peter makes a lot of sense. I'd check that the fan is working (the viscous coupling can fail and leave it idling at all times) and also be inclined to change the radiator, which has a separate section to cool the transmission fluid. If the problem goes away at speed it ought to be one of these.

Welcome to the club of transmission oil warning lights.

This is quiet a common problem with the automatic Disco2.

The warning light often comes on due to the switch sticking. There could be nothing wrong with your transmission at all. Get it checked on the computer at your local garage. There are lots of previous threads on this problem.

I have been running with my light on for over 4 months now as the new switch is on back order. Hopefully, it is due in next week but will cost me an arm and leg as it requires major surgery just to replace it.

hey hoe, life with the Disco eh?

The very first thing to do if you have a problem with the auto trans overheat light coming on is to change the gearbox oil.


I had this with a friends Disco auto - the red light was coming on all the time when we towed a horse trailer.

Las week I gave it a full service including the autobox oil and the result is..........................no more red lights !!!!!!

It will need doing again in about a week's time, as you can only get about 50% of the total oil out at any one time.

Each refill requires about 4.5ltrs of Dexron IID, or Dexron III if you are feeling really flush !!

First suspect is the transmission temperature sensor. Easy replacement as it can be accessed through an inspection panel behind the front roght hand wheel. Replaced mine after problems with red warning light coming on all the time and has completely cured the problem. This is a common fault on Disco 2 and an easy fix. If the problem continues after replacement then a contact with Ashcrofts as already mentioned is recommended

Agreed,

Replace the sensor FIRST, they are known to be iffy, and if you really want peace of mind, then service the autobox oil to. I very much doubt there is anything wrong with the box itself.

how do you check the oil, on this auto flywheel

penno19 said:

how do you check the oil, on this auto flywheel

Click to expand...

There is a set procedure for checking the autobox on this vehicle, which goes like this and you will a Torx socket (size T50 from memory):


1. Commence procedure with a cold engine;

2. Start the engine, then go through all the gearbox positions, leaving for 2-3 secs in each one, then move back to Park.

3. Whilst the engine is still running, get underneath the vehicle and find the sump of the autobox. At the front end is the fill/level plug which is the Torx plug and needs taking out.

4. What should happen if the level is correct, is that a small bead of oil about 1/4inch wide should run out of this hole. However, sometimes they are over-filled so be prepared to catch any spilt oil, and sometimes they need topping up. The oil to use is Dexron IID or Dexron III.