series 2 - 2.25 petrol core plugs

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90truckcab

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staffordshire
well, as its a full engine rebuild, the quiestion is..

do i replace the core plugs?

:rolleyes:they int never leaked so far, so im undecided weather to bust them out or not, seems pointless if they dunt leak,
but i spose it would give us chance to clean more of the block !

any one else done them ?

cheers
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i changed the core plugs in a v6 i started rebuilding last year, none leaked but when i cleaned the ****e off the block i found two with holes. also had one rot out in a 2 1/4 petrol, depends how ****ty the water in the engine has been i suppose!
 
change em, they cost pennies - but if they fail while the engine is in you'll be cursing for not doing them - good idea to run the engine up before you put it back in, just incase one of them weeps
 
I agree - change the lot.
They are called "Welch Plugs" after the inventor.

A good trick we used a lot in the seventies was this - clean the recess in the block or head very carefully, and then with a small brush paint the recess with an oil-based gloss house paint. Now paint the surface of the plug that's going into the recess, and tap it in using the biggest socket you can fit into the plug.

If they are flat dished coreplugs you will need to tap the middles in to make them take a tight bite in the recess. The coreplugs with decent flanges round them just need tapped in till they bottom-out, and if they are painted the wet oil paint will make them easier to tap in, and seal them.

The oil-paint WILL seal the plugs, and help to prevent corrosion.

CharlesY
 
yeah ther pennies to buy, spoke to a nato engineer of 30 years, rebuilt series and early 90 / 110 , he said if they dunt leak leave them alone, but likes yer say , yer might as well do them while its on the bench, reet **** if they go when yer back on the road.
 
One of things that can make a "proper" rebuild more expensive than a back street job, is cleaning out all the sludge in the water jacket. far easier with the core plugs out!
 
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