Second opinion - MOT failure

Hi, I have a Defender 90 (1992, 175k miles) in need of some work to get it through an MOT. I've taken it to a local garage and its failed on a few items though I'm a little bit sceptical to be honest. It sailed through last year and has only done about 500 miles since then - although I appreciate its not always as simple as that).

Feedback from MOT test is :
1) Leaking fuel tank (this is definately leaking, but am wondering if repair versus replace is cheaper/easier).

2 & 3) Steering box link and nearside front track rod end ball joint dust covers excessively damaged so that they no longer prevent the ingress of dirt (latter now seems to be leaking significant oil in vicinity but wasnt when i took it for MOT).

4) Nearside rear brake drum contaminated by oil.

I would be very grateful to get a second opinion from anyone local who would be willing to call by some time and take a look. I am unfortunately severly lacking in the practical side of things and nor do i have many tools!

Additionally, for that reason, if there is anyone interested in some paid maintenance as above then I'd prefer to pay a knowlegable LZ member than a garage who might not have worked on many Landy's and ends up taking twice as long as someone who knows what they're doing.

I will send full address details via direct message for anyone willing to take a look.

Cheers.
Fitzpad.

If its failed its failed......1 and 4 definitely sound like they want fixing and a dust cover is just rubber, doesn't take that long to get shagged.

Years ago vainly tried the Plastic Padding option on the leaky tank on my Stage 1. Oddly enough it passed the MOT but got a new tank in the end.

The tank sounds like the worst of the fails. Seals and dust covers should be relatively easy.

I took my tank out and got it welded, for what they cost I'd just buy a new one , it's a bit fiddly getting it in and out but if I can do it anybody can

Mine was under the drivers seat, haven't done one at the back

I did some welding to the replacement tank. Flushed it with gallons of water, connected it up to the exhaust of the diesel I had and them tested it with a match at arms length.

:behindsofa:

have previously used body filler on my OWN fuel tank

actually works really well and held until I could afford a replacement some months later
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yellow90 said:

have previously used body filler on my OWN fuel tank

actually works really well and held until I could afford a replacement some months later
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Click to expand...

As does chemical metal

aaronmorris said:

As does chemical metal

Click to expand...

+1 I've used this on my tank and it has held for almost one year, although I definitely require a new tank sooner than later!

with the price of fuel, get a new tank.. if it is the tank and not sender/pipes leaking

I would replace the fuel tank.
If steering joint boots are split, the joints will wear quickly and steering will be affected. Not a big repair.
You've got a heavy vehicle, so you want the brakes to work well!

You don't need a LR specialist to do any of those jobs.

None of these are big jobs, and it's actually not bad for a 22 year old motor!

I'd check the hub seals as they may be the reason for oil contamination in the drum, and will contaminate the new drum next.

I'd suggest your shopping list should include:

New fuel tank

Two new track rods (opposing thread)
Two new bracket things that keep the end held tight to the rod

New drums
New pads (If they're contaminated need replacing, and for price is probably worth it) - fyi you should replace pads an axle at a time, so you'll need replace both sides!
Wheel bearing kit - includes seal etc, and could be worth replacing bearings at same time whilst you've got hub apart.

The track rods is a fairly quick job, depending on how rusted up the rod looks, you could order a new rod too. I don't believe they're that expensive.

rear drums, would probably be a few hours depending on how much experience you've got.

Fuel tank, i've not done before but I believe can be a bit of a bugger of a job. I believe there's a picture tutorial on lr4x4.

See if there's someone local that can come and give you a hand, it'd be worth getting stuck in as with a 22 year old car, there's going to be more work around the corner!

IF the trackrod ends are in good nick, they do the boots for em seperatly about 1.50 iirc.

thanks for all the feedback