scraping noise

hi got 02 td4 whe free wheeling down my drive and turning the steering wheel i can hear a scraping noise sounds like brakes rubbin i think its coming from the rear butnot sure did jack it up and spun the the wheel but no noise seems to be only when free wheeling.also when coming to a stop the rev counter seem to stop at 900 i think then drops to850 is there a reason for this but drops once car as stopped if that makes sense thanks

Isn't that the influence of the IRD / VCU that you can hear ? When reversing with the wheels turned there seem to be some resistance the car builds up via the two above quoted parts. Don't know whether this is valid for you but can't think of anything else ? (Sorry but can't give the exact way of describing this, did my best but ......)

willo said:

Isn't that the influence of the IRD / VCU that you can hear ? When reversing with the wheels turned there seem to be some resistance the car builds up via the two above quoted parts. Don't know whether this is valid for you but can't think of anything else ? (Sorry but can't give the exact way of describing this, did my best but ......)

Click to expand...

hi thanks for that is it anythink to worry about

Hi, i get it too, there shouldn't be anything to worry just the vcu locking up due to the different speeds of the wheels, but if your worried about it do the tippex test on the vcu. The revs thing is something to do with it being too clever for its own good and it having an ecu as far as i can tell. Mine does it as well i notice it when going slow in traffic when i push the clutch down and rolling slow it stays at about 900 and then when fully stopped it drops to 850.

trustystead said:

Hi, i get it too, there shouldn't be anything to worry just the vcu locking up due to the different speeds of the wheels, but if your worried about it do the tippex test on the vcu. The revs thing is something to do with it being too clever for its own good and it having an ecu as far as i can tell. Mine does it as well i notice it when going slow in traffic when i push the clutch down and rolling slow it stays at about 900 and then when fully stopped it drops to 850.

Click to expand...

ah thanks my freind

I get the funny noise too. It's from the rear. I mounted my car on wood to raise it off the ground, and freewheeled it on tick over. On mine it's coming from the rear diff. Changed the oil in it and it didn't stop. Be ok for 4k miles touch wood.

Chassis cracked or rear subframe mounting broken?

The Mad Hat Man said:

Chassis cracked or rear subframe mounting broken?

Click to expand...

not chassis whats this mounting and where is it located many thanks

how do yu know its not cracked chassis? Cracked chassis makes a loud click when reversing on lock, then clicks again when pulling off in 1st.

rear diff mount can only be described as a loud clunk that comes from the rear of the car.

Rear subframe mounting - welded captive nut breaks - easy to reweld. Needs access from inside car.

useful reading

Posted this on another thread...
Worrying metalic click/crack noise eminating from under the car. This can be heard as the car comes to a halt after reversing off driveway (short distance of a few metres) and again on pulling forward. Just the one sound, not repeated, as if something has moved/shifted and back again on change of direction.

The Mad Hat Man
After reading your post above I realise I could have a cracked chassis.
Is this a common thing and how does it occur?
What are the remedies?
Is welding a possible fix and is it ok to keep driving the car?

common - lets just say its a well known "design feature".
Weld it back together.
yes - and like all faults - the quicker the fix - the better.

Many thanks...
Looks like I know what I'm doing tomorrow.

Hat Man,
Car is booked into garage for tomorrow.
I do have one concern though...
My wife has the car at work today and has to make a 7mile journey home...
What are the consequences of driving the car in this broken condition?

how long have yu driven it making this noise?
driven resposibly and carefully it should be fine.

high speed cornering and donutting is ill advised

as is standing quarter races.

Wife first mentioned the noise on friday last week...
I suspected frozen brake shoes due to the weather at the time.
I drove the car on Sat and heard no sound like she mentioned (wife agreed, no sound like she heard)
Only this morning did I hear the noise and suspected something serious, hence the questions on these boards.
So it's been about 5days on and off.

Can someone mark up this drawing or describe where the crack feature would be? Thanks

The creaking/cracking metalic sound is usually the o/s rear front mounting bolt which locates up through the chassis into a captive nut.
An access hole needs to be cut in the floor under the o/s back seat. This enables you to repair the top of the chassis box section where there is a captive nut and strengthening tube. The floor then needs to be plated, It is suggested that leaving a small hole with grommet to spray Waxoil in there is a good idea because it gets pretty rusty in there.
The Land Rover procedure involves replacing the chassis leg (see here).
The box section has a tube inside to prevent it crushing and the tube had punched a hole in the bottom of the box section. The metal punched out is like a washer the size of the spacer tube. No problem with lowering sub-frame and welding box section. Access is quite good provided you can get vehicle on a lift. The captive nut may not need a repair as there is enough movement to allow the flexing. You will see from the repair that it is only the front mounting on the Off Side that requires this repair.

Hey MHM,

that was the best explanation and illustration I have seen for the cracked chassis/bolt issue - I tried many searches on here previously and never come up with such a succinct answer.

much appreciated.