Schutz gun cleaning and general wax tips.

Hey,

I bought a Dinitrol kit. It came with outside wax and inside wax. And a Schutz-gun and some plastic plugs.
The idea is to coat the underside of the defender and the inside of the chassis rails and the bulkhead (and anything else I can think of).
I've need done anything like this before so is appreciate any tips you may have. The biggest question I have is what do I use to clean the Schutz gun? White spirit? Thinner? Or? I'm assuming it'll become all goo'd up (and myself too).
So far I've got a compressor with water separator and the hoses. The car is on the drive, but I'll park it on a disposable tarp when I spray it.
As this is outside, I'm worried about moisture. Should I be?

Or to be frank, I'm just worried all over so any calming tips would be very much appreciated.

Thanks!

you will need a flexible long attachment for the gun (did you get one with kit?). This is to insert into any opening in chassis, bulkhead, or anywhere else that you think waxoil will do its job. Take the door cards off and if required, drill holes in the metal frame and inject waxoil. I thin waxoil down well with white spirit, and mix with old engine oil about 70% waxoil 30% old oil. Expect to get covered your self though. Wear a hat, dust mask and goggles. You don't want to be breathing this stuff in. Preparation is important. Remove all loose rust as well as you can, and ensure all surfaces are as dry as possible. Dont apply too thick in one go. Build up layers. Clean all tools with white spirit. Enjoy

I have only ever used waxoil, I assume it to be similar, pick a warm day if possible,place the container in a bucket of hot water for half an hour then shake well.
With waxoil I thin with white spirit and clean with white spirit or paraffin.
Not sure on your applicator as I always use a paraffin gun which gives good results once it gets going, a bit of a bugger about with level of thinning and warmth of oil.

just stick the pickup tube of the schutz gun into a bottle of white spirit and gun it out into a bucket that will clean it.

dont use to long an extension tube on the end of the schutz gun as it wont work due to venturi pressure blowing back into the can. about 500mm worked for me.

i used a rubber tube on the end of the pickup tube about 2 foot long and just shoved the end on the 5 litre bottle i got from dinitrol so i didnt have to keep decanting it into the 1 litre schutz can

Thanks for all the replies guys.

This is the kit I got:
DINITROL RUSTPROOFING KIT - LARGE CAR | Rejel Store | Supplier to the Automotive Industry
It contains:

• 4 Litres ML3125 cavity wax
• 6 Litres 4941 black underbody wax
• DINRC900S rust converter spray 400ml aerosol
• REJEQ001 Schutz style spraygun with 500mm hose & nozzle
• 50 x DINPLUG10BL50 10mm black tapered plastic blanking plugs.

Sounds like I should try some white spirit to see if it works as a cleaner/thinner.

I'm going to have a look at the data sheets I just discovered over at the aforementioned site.

What's your thoughts about humidity..?

Thanks again!

For cleaning my gun I wipe it down with petrol then fill a clean can with petrol and spray it till it runs clean and normally leave it soaking in a bucket filled enough to cover it with thinners or petrol.

TheJoker said:

Thanks for all the replies guys.

This is the kit I got:
DINITROL RUSTPROOFING KIT - LARGE CAR | Rejel Store | Supplier to the Automotive Industry
It contains:

• 4 Litres ML3125 cavity wax
• 6 Litres 4941 black underbody wax
• DINRC900S rust converter spray 400ml aerosol
• REJEQ001 Schutz style spraygun with 500mm hose & nozzle
• 50 x DINPLUG10BL50 10mm black tapered plastic blanking plugs.

Sounds like I should try some white spirit to see if it works as a cleaner/thinner.

I'm going to have a look at the data sheets I just discovered over at the aforementioned site.

What's your thoughts about humidity..?

Thanks again!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, I need to do mine, although the weather is looking less than ideal!

i got 6 litres of cavity wax in my 90 chassis and bulkhead but didnt bother with the external stuff as the chassis mainly rust inside out.

dont thin the cavity wax, it doesnt need it, just warm it up in a water bath or boiling water for half an hour beforehand, will make it spray lovely

wear gloves and crappy clothes!

trax said:

wear gloves and crappy clothes!

Click to expand...

and a beanie hat

put a sheet down before you start, it stained my concrete that has resisted 15 years of spilling oil and every other fluid :doh:

flat said:

and a beanie hat

Click to expand...

oh yes! and make sure it covers all of your hair !

divie said:

I have only ever used waxoil, I assume it to be similar, pick a warm day if possible,place the container in a bucket of hot water for half an hour then shake well.
With waxoil I thin with white spirit and clean with white spirit or paraffin.
Not sure on your applicator as I always use a paraffin gun which gives good results once it gets going, a bit of a bugger about with level of thinning and warmth of oil.

Click to expand...

Just why I have not used waxoyl for years, as soon as I used Dinitrol I was converted.
The two are not similar. ML3125 runs like water, spraying it is easy, I just use an old household or garden sprayer, and I don't clean the sprayer, just leave it on the side in the workshop so I can give a blast into cvities exposed during other jobs. What is much more difficult is keeping it in the chassis, it finds its way through every little hole and gap. I have found blocking the drain holes with epoxy putty and driving around for a while with the dinitrol in the chassis for a bit works atreat, but I always remove the putty before the wet weather sets in.
I always paint the outside of chassis, bbut I imagine OPs external Dinitrol would be much thicker like waxoyl, cant see the ML3125 being easy to apply external, it would make a hell of a mess, and as has been posted, aint easy to clear up.

flat said:

and a beanie hat

Click to expand...

Depends if you've got any hair :behindsofa:

Thanks for all the replies guys. Very much appreciated. I guess I just need to get on with it and see how it goes.
I'll be covering myself, including my hands, face, hair, etc. And I'll put down a tarp, under the car, that I pretty much expect to be thrown away afterwards.

I had a look at the data sheets about what solvents they require.
The ML3125 Cavity Wax can be cleaned with white spirits and it dries in 1h.
The 4941 Underbody Wax can be cleaned with Hydrocarbon Solvents and has a drying time of 6-12h - considerably more gooey.

My primary worry now is the weather. The forecast is for bad weather for the foreseable future and I don't know how dry it has to be for spraying the car. But I guess I should just get on with it as soon as possible - I guess waxing in wet weather is better than no waxing...

Anyway, big thanks for all your replies!

I guess waxing in wet weather is better than no waxing...

Anyway, big thanks for all your replies! [/QUOTE]

Waxoil can trap moisture underneath it. Can you get it under some sort of cover and get it as dry as possible before you start. It needs to be as dry as you can get it !!!

meego said:

I guess waxing in wet weather is better than no waxing...

Anyway, big thanks for all your replies!

Click to expand...

Waxoil can trap moisture underneath it. Can you get it under some sort of cover and get it as dry as possible before you start. It needs to be as dry as you can get it !!![/quote]

Yeah, obviously, a a totally dry car would be ideal. And I wouldn't spray any wax onto a wet surface, but the Dinitrol Cavity wax is designed to be stop existing rust and to penetrate really well, so I'm kind of hoping that a bit of moisture inside the chassis rails wouldn't be too much of a catastrophy. The black and thick stuff will go on the outside, so that I should be able to control when it comes to moisture.

Let's hope for a dry weekend soon.

As others have said, it makes a mess. I bought a big sheet of builder's polythene to stand the car on, and sprayed the thin stuff into all the holes in the chassis until it started running out in other places. I took the bumper off the front and ran my lance up and down inside the chassis through the holes in the ends of the chassis members. There seem to be a variety of baffles and webs inside a Land Rover chassis so it helps if you use all the available holes to get as much internal coverage as you can. There are also little holes in the bottoms of the doors which are quite helpful.

About a week beforehand I cleaned the inside of the chassis as best I could by applying a pressure washer nozzle to all the holes to wash as much of the mud out of it as I could. Back in the summer, I thought a week should be enough to allow the inside of the chassis to dry, but at this time of year it might be longer. If you can get it indoors a spare electric heater (on a very low setting) under the car might help.

When I had finished I was surprised not only at the amount that was on my skin (it takes a few days to wash off - I used a pan scrubber in the shower) but the amount that was up my nose, in my ears and on my teeth.

TheJoker said:

Waxoil can trap moisture underneath it. Can you get it under some sort of cover and get it as dry as possible before you start. It needs to be as dry as you can get it !!!

Click to expand...

Yeah, obviously, a a totally dry car would be ideal. And I wouldn't spray any wax onto a wet surface, but the Dinitrol Cavity wax is designed to be stop existing rust and to penetrate really well, so I'm kind of hoping that a bit of moisture inside the chassis rails wouldn't be too much of a catastrophy. The black and thick stuff will go on the outside, so that I should be able to control when it comes to moisture.

Let's hope for a dry weekend soon.

[/QUOTE]

My apologies....did I state the obvious whilst giving you advice that you asked for

meego said:

My apologies....did I state the obvious whilst giving you advice that you asked for

Click to expand...

No need to apologise! All input is appreciated, your comment underlines the fact that a dry car is important - and I value that.