Rusted out passenger door repair...problem!

Probably been asked before but I can't find anything from searches etc.
I've started a repair on the bottom section of the passenger door on my 2001 90 CSW. It should be a relatively straight-forward job...take off door card, prise the door skin away, cut out rotten section, weld in new, job done. But the issue I have is that the rot extends over one of the hinge bolt holes on the vertical section so I now have to cut that out and 'create' a new bolt hole from the piece of repair box section which I ordered from EBay. On closer inspection the bolted vertical section has a strengthener bar on which the box section sits on top of (to give the hinge some support). And the box section also has a support tube running through it where the hinge bolt goes through. The repair section that came has a flat bottom, the OEM has a profiled bottom which allows it to sit on the strengthener bar. So I'm in a bit of a pickle as to how I'm going to tackle this. Anyone done this before or has any tips?? BTW I've got some metal tubing of the correct size to make up a bolt guide. Probably easier to explain from the photos attached.
Andy

IIRC ,you can get different repair sections, some of them are flat and some are profiled. YRM do some good repair bits n bobs which you might find handy

Could you drill an oversize hole and then weld in a piece of tube ?

vilguy said:

IIRC ,you can get different repair sections, some of them are flat and some are profiled. YRM do some good repair bits n bobs which you might find handy

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I've been on their website - they do some good stuff, maybe they could make up a piece as a one off for the vertical box section. It would probably cost as much as a new door.

meego said:

Could you drill an oversize hole and then weld in a piece of tube ?

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That's the plan. I have some correct size tubing and I'll weld it into the box section - hopefully getting the spacing bang on so that the hinge bolts line up. Problem is how do I get the strengthener bar welded in under-neath it!

Get some bar the correct size, maybe the same width as the repair and strengthener so it's roughly the same strength, then cut out the side of the repair section and inlet and weld the strengthener to the section. I'd make the tubes up on the strengthener first so you know they're exactly the right spacing.

Paul D said:

Get some bar the correct size, maybe the same width as the repair and strengthener so it's roughly the same strength, then cut out the side of the repair section and inlet and weld the strengthener to the section. I'd make the tubes up on the strengthener first so you know they're exactly the right spacing.

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I might try that. I was thinking that I should weld in the bar first to get a good strong weld, drill it for correct bolt spacing, tack on the tube, drill out the repair section, then sit the repair section on top of it (assuming I can get one with the recessed profile), then weld it all up. Probably turn out like a dogs hind leg!

or just buy another door...

vilguy said:

or just buy another door...

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It'll probably end up that way, but this is worth a shot before I part with a shed load of cash for a new door. The biggest PITA is the fact that I can't drive the damn thing until I get this sorted

Keep an eye out, they can be picked up cheap enough. I sold 3 doors last year for £20 a pop that were all half reasonable!

vilguy said:

Keep an eye out, they can be picked up cheap enough. I sold 3 doors last year for £20 a pop that were all half reasonable!

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Thanks, I will. Would be handy just to have one as a spare anyway, even this repair does go OK.
Won't get back to it now until the new profiled section arrives. I've ordered up a few other bits and pieces (window guide and shim, screws, etc.) may as well do a proper job whilst the bleedin' thing is off. Oh, and I found out what the clanging noise was when I closed the door........the frame welds had become detached in 2 separate places. Easy enough to tack back on but getting to it will mean glass out and all the workings. Hence new window guides because the old ones are fooked.

OK so finally got around to fixing the door. All done, and painted. Talk about faffing on. Too many hours ****ing around to be honest but got there in the end. Here is a shot of the partly constructed hinge guide made from steel tubing, welded onto a piece of flat bar stiffener which was drilled through to match the hole. I had to split the new repair section at the spot welds so that I could overlay and weld the profiles separately. Once the stiffener bar and tubing were welded in place I overlaid and welded the bottom piece first, followed by the top piece of box section, welded it, sliced off the tubing, and ground it flush. Just to make it a total pain, the two repair sections I bought were both different profiles and pretty shoddily constructed! Next time....throw old door away, buy second hand door...done. Tip... bring your old door card back to life with Halfords grey plastic primer followed by a coat of clear lacquer. Looks like new!

Hmmmm.......... that plastic primer and lacquer tip sounds interesting. Cheers