Rust, Rust, Rust and more Rust... Whats Your secret?

So today I decided to start to tackle the various amounts of rust in all the usual places and every where else around the disco.

Before long I found myself removing the tow bar just to start off small.

The main aim of this thread is to find out everyone's own individual way of dealing with the rotten tin worm


My current method at the moment is to attack it with a wire brush right down to the nice shiny metal, a few coats of iron oxide paint. I'm then thinking a coating of hammerite and on to the waxoyl?!?

What do you think?

I use a wire brush attachment which I attach to an angle grinder to get it back to bare metal. Then I spray paint on and top it with waxoyl. I fill small holes with body filler... (I should probably learn to weld)

I did try hammerite but it seems very expensive, lasts 5 minutes and flakes off really easily.

needle gun on the airline, make as much drop out as possible, remove bits of trim or equipment that gets in the way, grinder back to clean metal, cut out the holey bits, manufacture new bits to fit either "let in" or "lap jointed", tack in place, seam weld, red oxide spray paint both sides, schutz spray anything on the underside. replace all the bits you removed earlier.

quote=RichM;2593731] I fill small holes with body filler... (I should probably learn to weld)

I did try hammerite but it seems very expensive, lasts 5 minutes and flakes off really easily.[/quote]


Ima going to put the hammerite on the tow bar just to cover up the red oxide. and im stuck with clear waxoyl atm.

how does the filler hold up over time?

I forgot to mention, I am trying this process of removing rust through electrolysis mainly as just an experiment, but as has any one had any great success with this process?

nrgserv said:

needle gun on the airline, make as much drop out as possible, remove bits of trim or equipment that gets in the way, grinder back to clean metal, cut out the holey bits, manufacture new bits to fit either "let in" or "lap jointed", tack in place, seam weld, red oxide spray paint both sides, schutz spray anything on the underside. replace all the bits you removed earlier.

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90% same as my method

Hammerite shouldnt be painted onto a primer or undercoat, defeats the object as its supposed to soak into the rust and stop the oxidisation...however its good but it aint great.
Remove loose rust and waxoyle, but if its a box section even thats pointless if theres nothing on the other side, most rot comes from the inner sections so needs the waxoyle to be sprayed into the sections too.
Rust cure stuff works well on surface rust on doors etc after rubbing down but needs good primer and paint finish on top.
Zinc & red oxide primers are good on sound metal but are tad porous so need decent top coat once cured or will simply hold moisture and rust again

TD5power said:

90% same as my method

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whats the other 10% of your method?

nrgserv said:

whats the other 10% of your method?

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Don't use red oxide

TD5power said:

Don't use red oxide

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what do you use instead?

nrgserv said:

what do you use instead?

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Just paint

TD5power said:

Just paint

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emulsion?
come on, be specific!

nrgserv said:

emulsion?
come on, be specific!

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Poster paint

just go the Bilt Hamber website here, it saves me writing out what I use.

Andy345 said:

I forgot to mention, I am trying this process of removing rust through electrolysis mainly as just an experiment, but as has any one had any great success with this process?

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I'm intrigued. I'm imagining a giant electrolyte bath to dip the Land Rover in and pass a current through it. Is there not a risk that the Land Rover itself will act as the sacrificial anode (they usually do under normal road conditions) and after a while there won't be anything much left?

If only I had a bucket big enough

Tow bar hanger in there atm it seems alright, lot of rust bubbling round on the surface of the bucket.

I use diesel mixed with old engine oil cheap and effective

Pressure wash to get shot of mud. Wire brush to get rid off flakey and surface rust. Coat of hammerite kurust (2 if it still shows signs of brown when dry). Black hammerite (second coat if needed). Black waxoyl.

Unfortunately I've got a little bit lax with mine and haven't gone near the chassis for 3 years so am thinking that I may have to slap some paint on the old girl at the Bristol and west show.

Hi Guys and girls,

Just a quick update in regards to the electrolysis experiment.

This part was half in half out so a before and after if you may.

It was in the bucket for around 24 hours.

As you can see it just needs a very light brush to get the remaining dust off and jobs a gooden.

I now use POR-15 paint. I'm never using anything else ever again.
Absolutely evil to work with but by god it's good sh*t!


POR15 paint and consumables | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques

In fact, I had a few hours painting various bits today ready for the grand axle rebuild!