running out of ideas

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Lotus owner

Member
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34
Location
Saffron Walden
Just joined the forum, I have a problem, I own a disco 3, lovely car but.......
It was running well, left the car on the drive for 4 months, battery flat so got a friend to jump start it, left the car running for about 2 hours to charge the battery. I went for a drive, got 100 yds down the road and the dash lit up, brakes started coming on on their own and the car went into limp mode. Spent a day on the web and it sounded like a duff battery, so fitted a new one, to my delight it drove great......for about 3 miles then the same thing happened.
Reading between the lines the disco 3 does not like being jump started, i understand that the issue could be steering sensor, ABS sensor, and many others.
So a question to those who know the disco inside out:- do I need to clear the fault codes after changing the battery, secondly does anyone know where I should start to resolve this issue as speaking to a local garage I could hear him rubbing his hands together, ooh that sounds bad, could take a long time to sort out, how much money do you have.

Would welcome any guidance please........
A few observations, warning lights show HDC not available, suspension will raise when cooled. brakes lock at about 10 mph, it will eventually clear and drive well but if its turned off then restarted it fails again.
 
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Thanks for the response, I have just fitted a new battery, 019, my local garage tested the alternator and said it was fine but I understand the car is sensitive to voltage fluctuation.
I hope your friend enjoys his beer - Happy Birthday.
 
Thanks for the response, I have just fitted a new battery, 019, my local garage tested the alternator and said it was fine but I understand the car is sensitive to voltage fluctuation.
I hope your friend enjoys his beer - Happy Birthday.

many thks, alas laid up so no beers tonight , long story ,, lol bad back

have u got a multimeter please , if so can tell u what needs testing to ensure we have a 100% base line to start from and then if need be can slowly work our way through it

also do u have a diagnostics reader

thks
 
So you are taking it easy eh LOL, I have a meter, not sure how to use it my electrical knowledge is limited I use for live or not live!
The only diagnostic meter I have is for the Lotus, freescan.
If you could list the items to check I will have a go in the morning, really appreciate your help on this one cheers....
 
So you are taking it easy eh LOL, I have a meter, not sure how to use it my electrical knowledge is limited I use for live or not live!
The only diagnostic meter I have is for the Lotus, freescan.
If you could list the items to check I will have a go in the morning, really appreciate your help on this one cheers....

indeed, will make up for it another day , lol

so because the D3 has a smart alternator that’s controlled by an ecu they are very sensitive

If we test the basics first please and then go from there

1) meter set to Vdc , engine off, go across the battery terminals with ur test leads to see what the volts are
2) engine running , nothing turned on, check voltage again
3) engine running , turn everything on , check volts at 2,000 revs

4 ) engine running , nothing turned on, set meter to AC volts , put ur test leads on each battery post and see what reading u get

5) are ur brake lights working

before u turn ur engine off let it tick over for 1 min, allows the turbo to stop spooling and helps in the long run

is ur disco an auto, if so leave the handbrake off overnight and into park, only if its on level ground

at least that is a start and indeed Plse let us know, many here to always help
 
ABS Sensor fault. If there is a strange signal brakes will come on at low speed. You can drive through it but will get dashboard warning lights, suspension fault, no DSC, possibly limp home as well. I used to get it all the time when it rained. Sensor got wet and faulted out. If not the sensor could be the ABS ring in the hub.
 
Ok good morning folks.
So I have done the tests GSStuart

1) meter set to Vdc , engine off, go across the battery terminals with ur test leads to see what the volts are...............volts are 12.33
2) engine running , nothing turned on, check voltage again..........................15.33
3) engine running , turn everything on , check volts at 2,000 revs.................15.21

4 ) engine running , nothing turned on, set meter to AC volts , put ur test leads on each battery post and see what reading u get..........no reading

5) are ur brake lights working one bulb gone now replaced.

is ur disco an auto, if so leave the handbrake off overnight and into park, only if its on level ground . .........yes its auto, never used the hand brake.

Moved the car and the brakes activated within 3 metres

looking forward to your comments
 
I just had a though...dangerous.
With this type of problem do you need to do a hard reset in order for the fault ie braking and warning lights to disappear. Or will both those disappear if the fault is repaired....if you get my drift.
Another observation, may not be relevant the brake pedal makes quite a loud click when depressed, never noticed that before.
 
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I just had a though...dangerous.
With this type of problem do you need to do a hard reset in order for the fault ie braking and warning lights to disappear. Or will both those disappear if the fault is repaired....if you get my drift.
Another observation, may not be relevant the brake pedal makes quite a loud click when depressed, never noticed that before.

Brake pedal switch is a known problem area, about 10/15 quid, first thing I changed when I bought mine and kept the spare in the car just in case, not been an issue in over 5yrs.
There are actualy two switches in the brake switch 1 for brake lights and 2nd to knock off cruise, so if for example cruise side is duff brake lights may work but car cant see the 2nd signal so could get upset.
Brake light bulbs pop quite often, again doesnt seem to casue problems with my car when they blow.

If you think about it the fault is occuring as soon as you move so it seems logical thats it related to the wheels rotation, ie sensor fault/pulse ring, 1 tyre different size/puncture/pressure.
Sensor must be electrically sound or I would assume the fault would be there without moving? so either the air gap is to big or the pulse ring has missing teeth or is damaged ie split/out of round, Iirc the pulse ring is part of the driveshaft so wheel bearing (not unknown especially fronts) would cause the sensor air gap to change as the wheel rotates.
I have had a puncture in my D3 and after 1/2 a mile as we got up some speed the dash lit up, susp dropped, but the car kept going and so did I, as balls to messing around on my way home from work! one srcew removed puncture repaired all good again, same symptons when wheel bearing went about 3 odd years ago, dash lit up but still drove.

Have you a code reader or had the codes read?
 
unfortunately not, no code reader. When I put the battery on the car drove really well for about 15 mins, after switching off and on again I drove 30ft and the brakes dabbed on agin and the 3 lights lite up and the car went into limp mode could not get above 5mph, but then all of a sudden it clears (not the lights) and it drives really well.
 
Ok good morning folks.
So I have done the tests GSStuart

1) meter set to Vdc , engine off, go across the battery terminals with ur test leads to see what the volts are...............volts are 12.33
2) engine running , nothing turned on, check voltage again..........................15.33
3) engine running , turn everything on , check volts at 2,000 revs.................15.21

4 ) engine running , nothing turned on, set meter to AC volts , put ur test leads on each battery post and see what reading u get..........no reading

5) are ur brake lights working one bulb gone now replaced.

is ur disco an auto, if so leave the handbrake off overnight and into park, only if its on level ground . .........yes its auto, never used the hand brake.

Moved the car and the brakes activated within 3 metres

looking forward to your comments

cheers and indeed those look fine

have to agree with the others, if ur brakes come on as soon as u set off u need diagnostics or try replacing the brake pedal switch

As it’s been standing I wonder if one of the sensors has been chewed

There’s a few cheap scanners around

Autel AP200 and there’s another one by RSW solutions , is software used via a laptop

best one out there is the gap iid but that’s now £500 quid
 
hi,
so are the devices easy to use and will it actually show whats needs fixing etc, in other words what does it do other than give me codes etc.
Would it be prudent just to buy a brake pedal switch to start with, I notice that there is a click when the the brake pedal is pushed and the gear selector knocks at same time, again not noticed this before.
 
hi,
so are the devices easy to use and will it actually show whats needs fixing etc, in other words what does it do other than give me codes etc.
Would it be prudent just to buy a brake pedal switch to start with, I notice that there is a click when the the brake pedal is pushed and the gear selector knocks at same time, again not noticed this before.

hi

I own a gap iid and it will do a lot, ie recalibration of suspension, live data etc, the list goes on and will be the only tool u would need

island are about the cheapest

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/integr...411-da6412-da6413-da6414-tfiidbt-p-27303.html

ref that click, when u press the brake pedal it releases a solonoid in the gear lever, stops u starting it in gear

wouldn’t hurt buying a new pedal switch, also have a look at ur wheel sensor leads as it seems strange it was fine before and now it isn’t maybe one has deteriorated or been chewed through ???

maybe buy an Autel ap200 as there only £50 and will at least give u fault codes , then later on get a gap iid and keep the autel in the disco
 
Autel ap 200 ordered will be here tomorrow and ordering a brake pedal switch £15 on amazon.
will let you know the results

that’s great and the feedback is very good ref the autel , good call ref the switch as indeed is a well known fault and a cheap replacement

don’t forget plenty here to always help when u get ur codes , also think the autel will read ur wheel speed live data which will help a lot

indeed Plse let us know how things go
 
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