Rubbish brakes

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farmershort

farmershort

Well-Known Member
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Location
West Berkshire
Sorry - I know I'm forever posting faults/questions at the moment... My only excuse is that she's new and I'm dead eager to have her running at her best.

So, brakes have been very very rubbish since I bought her a few weeks ago - much more rubbish than they should be. To the point where I have to use the engine braking to do an emergency stop.

She had new rear pads the day before I picked her up, and I renewed the front pads over the weekend - mostly co's they were squealing. The old pads on the n/s front were amazing, plenty of tread left, but they looked somehow a bit muddy/slimey (not greasy though), and looked as if they were starting to crumble/delaminate.

Anyway, I cleaned the disc up with some meths, and thought all would be well. However, since the change braking has not improved at all, and the squealing whilst braking is still present.

any ideas? I suppose it's 2 problems really - 1) **** brakes, 2) squealing brakes.

Thanks

FS
 
seized callipers maybe

did you replace the anti rattle springs when you replaced the discs? (some calipers require them some dont)

what model is it?
 
bobbler said:
seized callipers maybe

did you replace the anti rattle springs when you replaced the discs? (some calipers require them some dont)

what model is it?
Click to expand...

it's a 300tdi with the anti-rattle metal springs over the pins - which are held in with split pins...

co's I'm a pikey, and not really kitted out as I should be, I didn't replace the springs, or the split pins... just re-used the old ones (yes yes, I know) I thought I could always replace these at a later date....

I assume you're referring to the springs as part of the squealing problem, rather than the crap brakes?

I'm not sure what to look for regarding seized calipers... I was able to push the pistons back ok in order to insert the new pads.
 
landy10 said:
Have you looked at the back brakes as they need to be in good shape aswell
Click to expand...

yeah, they were renewed about 3 weeks ago, the day before I picked it up... checked em over the weekend to make sure - again, springs weren't replaced, in fact they were thrown away altogether, but there's plenty of fresh copper slip on the pins and backs of the pads, so I do believe the owner when he said the garage changed them. :)
 
not sure the springs would cause a squeal under braking would be more of a rattle/noise while driving in some cases.
 
Last edited:
quick thought but could the rear brakes be the cause of your noise from the other thread? for about a tenner for the rattle spring kit it could be worth a shot :)
 
bobbler said:
quick thought but could the rear brakes be the cause of your noise from the other thread? for about a tenner for the rattle spring kit it could be worth a shot :)
Click to expand...

It would be a beautiful thing if they were - but I can't for the life of me see how they could make that noise.... ah why not - I'll pick up a spring kit as soon as I get to amd before closing time! it's such a bugger working 8 - 5pm!
 
I sympathise. Land rover brakes were designed to keep mechanics busy.....

Need to know a little more info about what you mean by 'rubbish' - are the brakes pulling to one side when pressed hard? What does the pedal feel like - is it very hard, is there loads of travel, is it spongey? This will help with the diagnosis
 
if it has Mintex pads fitted they will squeel !! Ferodo where std fitment and they do not squeel. is your brake pedal very hard? or is there some servo assistance? only reason i ask is that the vacuum pump bolted onto the side of the engine is very susceptable to losing its tension on the internal spring and giving less pressure than required
 
Landy-ads said:
I sympathise. Land rover brakes were designed to keep mechanics busy.....

Need to know a little more info about what you mean by 'rubbish' - are the brakes pulling to one side when pressed hard? What does the pedal feel like - is it very hard, is there loads of travel, is it spongey? This will help with the diagnosis
Click to expand...

well, the pedal feels firmer for the new brake pads, but i'd say spongier than my last car - which was a saab with brakes on the way out. there was a clear improvement in pedal feeling with the new pads, but no improvement in braking at all...

does that help?

as for the make, I *think* I remember something like mintex being written on the backs of the pads, so probably those - ho hum, not the end of the world.
 
Try bleeding the brakes. But be aware that defenders are not reknown for having good brakes. and ****e brakes on a SCAB would still be better than decent brakes on a defender.
 
as redhand says bleed the brakes, and try to flush out all the old fluid while you do it.. brake fluid absorbs moisture naturally so if its been in there a few years it will have done so which could lead to spongy brakes - probably something a dealer wouldn't do cause your not likely to check
 
I have a 110 and my brakes are not as good as the 90 was... I checked what I could but was still not happy. If you want a garage to test them the easiest way is to find one that does MOTs and for £20 or so they will test them on the rolling road. Any issues will show up... if you have to use engine braking thats pretty dangerous?
Mine passed the MOT brake test, I was suprised.... I am still not 100% happy, just now and again it seems the brake pedal wont go further but not travelling to the floor. I am leaning towards a fault with the servo not being 100%.... I think these can be tested using a vacuum of some sort? I believe the pipes can perish so any slight leak will effect things. For £20 you will know if it is safe to drive and it will give % breakdown of each wheel...
 
MrJC said:
I have a 110 and my brakes are not as good as the 90 was... I checked what I could but was still not happy. If you want a garage to test them the easiest way is to find one that does MOTs and for £20 or so they will test them on the rolling road. Any issues will show up... if you have to use engine braking thats pretty dangerous?
Mine passed the MOT brake test, I was suprised.... I am still not 100% happy, just now and again it seems the brake pedal wont go further but not travelling to the floor. I am leaning towards a fault with the servo not being 100%.... I think these can be tested using a vacuum of some sort? I believe the pipes can perish so any slight leak will effect things. For £20 you will know if it is safe to drive and it will give % breakdown of each wheel...
Click to expand...

Thanks very much - sounds similar... it passed the MOT 3 odd weeks ago - which amazes me really!

I will give the bleeding a go, sounds like a pretty simple job, as long as I rtfm first.


I had a bit more of a think today about how to describe the brakes....

as you apply pressure to the pedal, the pressure increase to the brakes - although, not as much as I'd expect... then after about 3/4 of the travel of the pedal the brakes seem to have reached their max pressure. If I stamp down the last 1/4 of the travel of the pedal, the brakes to not apply any more pressure. I certainly could never hope to lock the wheels up with these brakes - then again, not that's possible with a 110 on tarmac anyway.
 
If the pads are all new it could just be that they need to bed in.

Does the pedal feel a bit solid or pretty normal except for the lack of actual stopping power?

To stop the squealing, take the pads back out and chamfer the leading edges with file.
 
If the pedal is very hard and moves slowly it could be your servo is not giving the required boost. Find a safe spot and test the brakes with the engine running and then without, there should be a big difference.

Also if the servo is working you should feel the pedal move down slightly when you start the engine with your foot on it.
 
Landy-ads said:
If the pedal is very hard and moves slowly it could be your servo is not giving the required boost. Find a safe spot and test the brakes with the engine running and then without, there should be a big difference.

Also if the servo is working you should feel the pedal move down slightly when you start the engine with your foot on it.
Click to expand...

I did the 2nd half of this test last night... but I forgot the first bit - whoops.

if I press hard down on the brake pedal, then turn the engine on, the pedal goes down a fraction further - not far though...

I'll try doing the braking with and without engine running in the next few days... after i've fixed the wheel bearings and radius arm bushes.
 
I think you would do well to clean the brake pistons in the caliper,also so long as the landy brakes in a straight line and slows quickly thats what they are like.iff it pulls under brakeing and you have to correct it with steer it may be a bit outa ballance.

If you have to stop quick then yes use the gearbox.I prefer to leave double distance as i squashed a noddy car trailer not so long back...
 
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