Rover T Series Turbo

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freebiker

freebiker

Well-Known Member
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Rebel County, Ireland
Hey all, happy with my 1.8 K series but just thinking about different ways to get a really really fast landy!

I've looked around a bit online and i think Daft has said a few times that a 220 turbo lump can be fitted.

What i was wondering tho, what would the full extent of fitting a T series be? I've looked around online and one can be bought for about £300 so they're quite a cheap engine. Would it be simple to fit into a freelander and what other mods do you think would be required?

Probably things like ECU and larger bore exhaust would probs be a must but engine mounts etc?
 
yu will need the 220 engine and gearbox complete including the Engine management electronics and radiator (intercooler).
I believe the gbox is the same, however the gearbox input shaft needs to be changed if yu wish to mate the 220 to the hippoo box and keep 4wd. Some of the 220Turbos (if not all) had a Thorsen LSD, which mite be nice too.
I think thats all - so quite an easy job.

One thing tho - make sure it has got (or you fit) a new Klinger style Headgasket, as they are prone to leaking oil out from the rear lhs (by the turbo) head gasket. The oil way there is close to the edge of the block. Some peeps bore out the oil hole and fit a hollow steel or copper dowel in its place as well. Apart from that - it seems prettty much bombproof.
 
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Err has anyone actually fitted the turbo to a FL?

I know peeps have done the conversion in 2wd Rovers, but is there even enough room between the sump and IRD?

IIRC our very own G13SJC has done this in another car, I thought the spiggot shaft will fit the PG1 gearbox but the bell housing is different, I think G13SJC has a bell housing kicking around?

Crewey, did you not sort the gasket, with some valve porting and basic tweaks the k-series is an absolute marvel.
 
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Yeah i've had the modified gasket fitted and i'm going to get the thermo mod done now as well.

I'm just toying with ideas on how to get her really really fast. Options are modding the K series in her at the moment, maybe spend a bit on race cams and peices, or research a bit more into the turbo lump. She's pretty fast with the modded air intake and the stainless exhaust system but it's just getting addicting now lol.
 
much as I love the freelander I dont think that she was made for speed and all this tuning will end in tears or the hedge:)
Get on your bike and really **** off /on the local corsa boys!
 
Keep hearing what an easy conversion this is, but I still havent seen evidence of one that has actually been done. Is it all an urban myth?
 
k's to t's are quite common in the rover world, so shouldnt be an issue, just mounts and loom, there is a bloke called glynn on rovertech that will convert looms for you!
 
hmmm, would be good to know whether anyone had put one in the freebie before.

Been thinking more about it lately and it looks like i may just modify my K series a bit more, then if in a years time i'm still not happy with it's performance i'll research more.

Regarding the tears or hedge comment... my drivings good thanks :D

My girl can stick to the road better than my mates Corsa!
 
T series engine is a good engine and if the one you have is not good it can generally be rebuilt. Ive got one here and ive measured it. Overall its about 530 mm long (or 61 including the dizzy cap), 620 High overall, and the head is about 380 wide, the bottom of the engine is about 280 wide. the crank centre is about 175 from the bottom of the sump. This of course does not include the anciliaries and without manifolds. However the turbo and other stuff on the front of the engine does take up quite a bit of space. Also bear in mind the the T series engine without the turbo is also good engine. I suspect the only reason Rover stopped using it was perhaps either for Rationalisation or Emmission Standard compliance and probably for no other reason.
 
With the right tools, skills etc (along with a big helping of ingenuity) you can just about get any motor in any car. I can even remember a Rover V8 on a Hewland gearbox in the back of a Hillman Imp! Only thing is somebody has got to do it 1st. Good luck!!
 
alexscott_nzl said:
T series engine is a good engine and if the one you have is not good it can generally be rebuilt. Ive got one here and ive measured it. Overall its about 530 mm long (or 61 including the dizzy cap), 620 High overall, and the head is about 380 wide, the bottom of the engine is about 280 wide. the crank centre is about 175 from the bottom of the sump. This of course does not include the anciliaries and without manifolds. However the turbo and other stuff on the front of the engine does take up quite a bit of space. Also bear in mind the the T series engine without the turbo is also good engine. I suspect the only reason Rover stopped using it was perhaps either for Rationalisation or Emmission Standard compliance and probably for no other reason.
Click to expand...

Welcome New Zealander ;)

Good nugget of info with the dimensions.

L/W/H of the K4 engine are 505 x 630 x 615,

The engine bay is massive in the FL 1, accomodating the K6 L/W/H 498 x 694 x
700

These figures are from a Powertrain (R.I.P.) brochure, who made all the K-series, L-series diesels and PG1 gearboxes.

The biggest issue is the IRD, it is shoe horned in behind the sump
 
Missing Link said:
With the right tools, skills etc (along with a big helping of ingenuity) you can just about get any motor in any car. I can even remember a Rover V8 on a Hewland gearbox in the back of a Hillman Imp! Only thing is somebody has got to do it 1st. Good luck!!
Click to expand...

Agreed

The position of the IRD is the restriction Modding a 2wd would be straight forward, connecting 4wd may have major fabrication involved,



Attachments

1. G13SJC's engine bay
2. IRD next to bell housing with k-series removed
3. IRD removed, engine/gearbox intact, note how tight it's gonna be.
4. K4 1.8...... a slimline engine, if the T4 is 280mm at the sump, it may just be a bit of a lard ass????
 

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  • IRD BELL HOUSING-2.jpg
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  • ird-removed-gearbox-bracket.jpg
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  • k-series-new-clutch.jpg
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ere NI - I is confused.
If , and I aint sure, the T lump is the same (or very similar) size as a K series, then shirley it would just take the place of the K lump, the gearbox, IRD etc would remain in the same place?
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
ere NI - I is confused.
If , and I aint sure, the T lump is the same (or very similar) size as a K series, then shirley it would just take the place of the K lump, the gearbox, IRD etc would remain in the same place?
Click to expand...

I think the dimensions from Powertrain are including all auxillary parts, alt, manifolds etc.

Where it matters most is the profile of the block - sump join.

When I get a chance I'll crawl under the k-series and get a guesstimate.

It seems NZ is the only person with a T at hand, would be good to get a definitive answer on this.

I'd be keen to bodge one to fit
 
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my point was that - if it will mate to the same gearbox, then the injun would be in the same place, and by definition the Gerabox will be in the same place so the IRD will be anorl....

or have I missed summat?
 
This is one of these interesting projects that I keep hoping someone will tackle & post all details.
 
Another 10,000 trouble free miles after having the head gasket done i've decided to keep the K series in and just make full use of that.

I've made a couple of friends over here that are majorly into tuning so they're currently helping me make the most out of my K.

So far, modifications have been...

Multi layer shimmied gasket and steel dowels (done back in the UK 10,000 miles ago)
Air induction setup and SS exhaust (done back in the UK)
Modified oil rail
Piper fast road camshafts
Piper vernier pulleys
Uprated valve springs
52mm throttle body

Next upgrades are the uprated race clutch, and if i still want to go faster, replacing the ECU.

It's going well so far, and is noticeable faster and has more torque, especially noticeable on inclining road. I want to get it on a rolling road soon to see how much she's putting out.

We're also in the process of stripping out the rear to make it really lightweight, including replacing the two side rear windows with lightweight aluminum, and replacing the two rear door windows with perspex as well as removing the rear door winding mechanisms and most of the rear interior fixtures.

Can't quite keep up with my mates 4 second scooby just yet lol, but i can now give the golf GTI's a run for their money.
 
50cc said:
Me too! :)

Also great fun, a Mazda engine in a Freelander. Almost done...:
Turbo Mazda Freelander! - Australian Land Rover Owners

Been a while since the last update though.
Click to expand...


Good read that Mazda engine thread. Always wondered if the 1.8 or 1.9 BMW M40, M42 or M43 petrol engine could be made to fit without too much hassle. There's got to be a good solution to the petrol Freelander problem that won't cost the earth to fit. Am a bit surprised that no-one offers a conversion kit to help out with this.
 
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