Rough/Lump running

Hi all.

2000 4.0 HSE Thor

I've periodically checked the engine for fault codes (and all other systems) since I got the Nanocom back in March. Haven't had any engine problems at all until now.

I noticed it was running a bit lumpy earlier this afternoon on a run to the dump but did nothing about it until this evening. On a journey in to town and back, the car was definitely lacking in power and feeling quite poorly. Threw Nanocom on just now and received the following:

ANOCOM - MOTRP38.APP - MOTRONIC fault file

P1300 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 2 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION

---
P1000 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 6 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 2 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS INTERMITTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION

---
P1319 = MISFIRE WITH LOW/EMPTY
FUEL DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION

---
P0300 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION

---
P0306 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 6 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT CAUSES THE MIL LAMP
ACTIVATION

---

No lamps are displaying on the dash at all and it does work as when ignition is on, it lights up as normal.

Seems to be a few for cyclinder 6 though I'm not sure if that would be causing the other problems too.

Any suggestions/recommendations on what steps I should take or what the most likely cause is please?

Thanks

plugs leads or coil pack

What plugs do people recommend for these engines?

Have you looked at the misfire counters whilst its running/while driving?

jacckk said:

Have you looked at the misfire counters whilst its running/while driving?

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Can't say I have to be honest. Gonna use the other car for now though as it's really rough. Seems I have a blow in the exhaust too that's gonna need sorted.

domino said:

What plugs do people recommend for these engines?

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Spark plugs, glow plugs don't seem to work

Datatek said:

Spark plugs, glow plugs don't seem to work

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Oh you..

The service kit from Island came with 8 x Champion RN11YCC plugs but it seems RAVE states they should be RC11PYPB4.

Wonder why Island ship out the former? RAVE indicates the gapping is different on these and obviously they're made of different material, too.

Edit: a bit of reading suggests that the 'OEM' RC11PYPB4 plugs 'weld' themselves in to the threads if you leave them too long.

I'm also seeing recommendations for NGK BPR6ES.

Any ideas? Bit confused

Think all my P38's NGK from memory....

You may have a duff plug and/or lead....swap plug with another cylinder and see if fault follows, if not, swap lead over...if it follows it is that...if not, could be coil pack breaking down.

My plan is/was to change all the plugs anyway as despite having a bible full of receipts for all kinds of work and parts and servicing, I can't see any that mention the plugs being changed!

I had rough running and a load of random codes and I replaced the MAF/Lambda sensors and this sorted it.

I have also wondered about plugs... I presume the parts in the first kit on this page suffice?
Range Rover 2 Engine Service Kits at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

I can only suggest you swop a plug to another cylinder first(not the other one linked through the coil). If it shows as a misfire on the different cylinder then it's just a plug, No, then leave the plugs where they are and try swopping Four HT leads over from different sides of the engine. So if the misfire then happens on say cyl 3 then it's a lead. Ok coil packs, I do not think these are coded to the Electronic control unit, but BEFORE you swop them around mark the cyl on each one. so swop them over and the misfire moves, then it's a coil pack or the other cylinders ht lead.
these are wasted spark coils = that the coil fires two cylinders at once. You have two coil packs with four leads on each one. Buy a digital meter and measure the resistance of the leads, it will be in kilo ohms 2K +. The wires sometimes have their resistance per metre marked on them. A digital meter from fleabay costs around £5. I have just bought several with a built in light and a hold button (useful when you want the maximum reading) I have them wrapped for Christmas presents.

A injector could do the misfire you describe, have you tried using a good cleaner like Wynns petrol injector cleaner ? When you remove the plugs lay them down in order. Number 6 will show signs of a misfire as a white powder like substance on the contacts. Normal running plugs are either light brown at the contacts or almost clean, these modern fuels can make engines run very clean. PLUGS I have some NGK and Champion books somewhere. I think the Champs are multi gap plugs. NGK sounds like single gap.

Well, Champion are listed in RAVE but other owners and indeed Saint gave suggest NGK.

domino said:

Well, Champion are listed in RAVE but other owners and indeed Saint gave suggest NGK.

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The RN11YCC, from memory, are "double copper" plugs. Superior to the other plug listed. I believe the service life on the CC is 25k.

Well, I have 8 of them on my desk that came in the service pack however RAVE states these are for gems, not Thor and apparently the gaping is different?

domino said:

Well, I have 8 of them on my desk that came in the service pack however RAVE states these are for gems, not Thor and apparently the gaping is different?

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Mmmm, eight paper weight's.

8 RN11YCC that is....

domino said:

8 RN11YCC that is....

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I know, you can use them as paper weights.

Didn't you say they are superior though?

Argh.