Roof Tents + Paint

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G

Graham G

Guest
Used one in Namibia, think it was an eezi-awn. Seemed really good and was
nice to sleep in. Am toying with the idea of one. Any thoughts, comments or
recommendations would be appreciated. Think I will have a look at some at
malvern or peterborough.

Secondly, have a 101 to paint. Thinking probably desert colour. Want to keep
it sort of original military type coulour without it looking military if
that makes sense. Other colour sugestions appreciated (not purple, martyn,
alan would kill me). I'm after the impossible really, a really good finish,
but on the cheap. Looking around at spray companies at the moment, so if you
know of any in the Stratford upon avon area...

Many Thanks

Graham


 
Graham G wrote:
> Looking around at spray companies at the moment, so if you
> know of any in the Stratford upon avon area...

I found that the local big bus/coach operator has his own paintshop
available to do big jobs like an ambi.There must be someone near Stratford ?

Steve
 
On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 17:55:44 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Secondly, have a 101 to paint. Thinking probably desert colour. Want to keep
>it sort of original military type coulour without it looking military if
>that makes sense. Other colour sugestions appreciated (not purple, martyn,
>alan would kill me).

So would I :)

Are you keeping the racking in the back?

If not, can I put my hand up for it (I'm intent upon a Radbod resto at
some point, and the racking, with some kit, would look quite neat at
shows).

>I'm after the impossible really, a really good finish,
>but on the cheap. Looking around at spray companies at the moment, so if you
>know of any in the Stratford upon avon area...

Sand is good on a radbod - but to keep it really authentic, you need a
6" paintbrush (or a good 4" gloss roller like wot I used on Grumble).

 
Mother wrote:
> On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 17:55:44 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>

> Sand is good on a radbod - but to keep it really authentic, you need a
> 6" paintbrush (or a good 4" gloss roller like wot I used on Grumble).

....and it should be applied over dried mud.
Steve
>
 

"Mother" <"@ {m} @"@101fc.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 17:55:44 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>Secondly, have a 101 to paint. Thinking probably desert colour. Want to
>>keep
>>it sort of original military type coulour without it looking military if
>>that makes sense. Other colour sugestions appreciated (not purple, martyn,
>>alan would kill me).
>
> So would I :)
>
> Are you keeping the racking in the back?

Was going to take it out, but put it into storage so it could be put back
in. If I decide to get rid of it I'll be sure to let you know. Had thought
about leaving it in and just moving it further back. Haven't looked at it
too closely.

What i want to achieve is to keep it as near original as I can, but at the
same time making it usable. Have no plans to turn it into a camper, think it
would be a shame given how original it is. Anything I do will be able to be
undone, thats the plan anyway!

> Sand is good on a radbod - but to keep it really authentic, you need a
> 6" paintbrush (or a good 4" gloss roller like wot I used on Grumble).

Again comes down to the compromise really, wanted original army type colour
and style without military look and squaddie artistic ability. Hence sand
and hence spray. however, the finish you achieved is good so that might be
the way to go, esp given the quotes I've had. Hate painting with a passion
though, might be a job for emma.

Graham


 

"steve Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mother wrote:
>> On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 17:55:44 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>
>> Sand is good on a radbod - but to keep it really authentic, you need a
>> 6" paintbrush (or a good 4" gloss roller like wot I used on Grumble).
>
> ...and it should be applied over dried mud.
> Steve
>>

and on the hotest day in the year so that when its washed it comes off in
big sheets!!


Any ideas on the roof tent? thought it would mean i could keep the inside
fairly original, but still be able to camp in resonable comfort. When it
comes to it though, I might just end up building a free standing wooden
affair inside for ease and cost, probably be more comfortable against the
elements.

Its a tough one, am acutely aware of how original the rad bod is and not
wanting to destroy it, yet at the same time, there is no point in having it
unless I can use it and enjoy it.

Graham


 
>>Secondly, have a 101 to paint. Thinking probably desert colour. Want to
>>keep
>>it sort of original military type coulour without it looking military if
>>that makes sense. Other colour sugestions appreciated (not purple, martyn,
>>alan would kill me).
>
> So would I :)

bugger, thats that plan out the window then ;o)

Alan gave me strict instructions that if I painted it yellow, orange, purple
or any other such colour, he would be hiring a hit squad :eek:) Emma wanted
mauve! Think sand will have to do, or a close approximation to.


 

"Graham G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Used one in Namibia, think it was an eezi-awn. Seemed really good and was
> nice to sleep in. Am toying with the idea of one. Any thoughts, comments
or
> recommendations would be appreciated. Think I will have a look at some at
> malvern or peterborough.
>
> Secondly, have a 101 to paint. Thinking probably desert colour. Want to
keep
> it sort of original military type coulour without it looking military if
> that makes sense. Other colour sugestions appreciated (not purple, martyn,
> alan would kill me). I'm after the impossible really, a really good
finish,
> but on the cheap. Looking around at spray companies at the moment, so if
you
> know of any in the Stratford upon avon area...
>
> Many Thanks
>
> Graham
>
> You could paint it that BL desert sand sort of colour that lots of
Marinas and Minis were painted back in the seventies ( its probably the
camel trophy colour now) but what sets military vehicles apart is the
absolute mattness of the paint. If you get it mixed up as a gloss or semi
gloss it will look quite different to the original .
steve the grease


 
>> You could paint it that BL desert sand sort of colour that lots of
> Marinas and Minis were painted back in the seventies ( its probably the
> camel trophy colour now) but what sets military vehicles apart is the
> absolute mattness of the paint. If you get it mixed up as a gloss or semi
> gloss it will look quite different to the original .
> steve the grease

I had thoughts along similar lines. Did't want a real glossy finish cos then
I'd need to be very fussy about removing all slight dings in the panels (&
RBs have a lot). Thought a Satin finish might look ok??

Graham


 

"Mother" <"@ {m} @"@101fc.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 17:55:44 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>Secondly, have a 101 to paint. Thinking probably desert colour. Want to
>>keep
>>it sort of original military type coulour without it looking military if
>>that makes sense. Other colour sugestions appreciated (not purple, martyn,
>>alan would kill me).
>
> So would I :)
>
> Are you keeping the racking in the back?

Was going to take it out, but put it into storage so it could be put back
in. If I decide to get rid of it I'll be sure to let you know. Had thought
about leaving it in and just moving it further back. Haven't looked at it
too closely.

What i want to achieve is to keep it as near original as I can, but at the
same time making it usable. Have no plans to turn it into a camper, think it
would be a shame given how original it is. Anything I do will be able to be
undone, thats the plan anyway!

> Sand is good on a radbod - but to keep it really authentic, you need a
> 6" paintbrush (or a good 4" gloss roller like wot I used on Grumble).

Again comes down to the compromise really, wanted original army type colour
and style without military look and squaddie artistic ability. Hence sand
and hence spray. however, the finish you achieved is good so that might be
the way to go, esp given the quotes I've had. Hate painting with a passion
though, might be a job for emma.

Graham



 
In message <[email protected]>
"Graham G" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Thought a Satin finish might look ok??
>
>Graham
>
You have to be really fussy with your preparation if you choose gloss.
Matt IMO is too flat and is difficult to clean and keep clean.
Semi-gloss or satin is a happy medium, it's easy to clean looks good and
doesn't show up all the imperfections.

Steve


--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce
 
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 19:04:24 +0100, Stephen Hull <[email protected]>
made me spill my meths when he wrote:

>You have to be really fussy with your preparation if you choose gloss.
>Matt IMO is too flat and is difficult to clean and keep clean.
>Semi-gloss or satin is a happy medium, it's easy to clean looks good and
>doesn't show up all the imperfections.

I'll go with that, the 100% matt I recently sprayed looks good but boy
does it show those greasy thumbprints, and if you wipe them off it
just makes it worse. Thing is, the bodywork was good enough to get
away with a nice Deep Bronze Green but that would have meant spit and
polish everywhere else to match it, then there would have been the
tyres to polish...

All the best
--
Wayne Davies - Mobile 07989 556213 - Harrogate, N.Yorks, UK
 

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 19:04:24 +0100, Stephen Hull <[email protected]>
> made me spill my meths when he wrote:
>
>>You have to be really fussy with your preparation if you choose gloss.
>>Matt IMO is too flat and is difficult to clean and keep clean.
>>Semi-gloss or satin is a happy medium, it's easy to clean looks good and
>>doesn't show up all the imperfections.

Sold!!

> I'll go with that, the 100% matt I recently sprayed looks good but boy
> does it show those greasy thumbprints, and if you wipe them off it
> just makes it worse. Thing is, the bodywork was good enough to get
> away with a nice Deep Bronze Green but that would have meant spit and
> polish everywhere else to match it, then there would have been the
> tyres to polish...

I'd pretty much already decided against gloss, cos as you rightly point out
the task of prep-ing it would be mamouth. I hadn't considered the rest, but
you are right I'd have to do the chassis, wheels etc etc. My GS is in matt,
it does look really nice, but as you rightly say is a bugger for showing
marks. its also terrible for trying to touch up (whole vehicle or nothing),
not sure if satin would be be4tter from this point of view but it couldn't
be worse.

Next question, where is best/cheapest to get the paint?? As far as I can
figure its either anchor or "war paint".

Another thing that occured to me today; the inside is painted with this
anti-condensation paint. On the whole its not too bad, however in quite a
few places it has kind of blistered and is pealing off (metal behind is
fine, its the paint). Any suggestions how to approach this? If I neet to
re-paint, were on earth do you get it, I did't even know there was a such
thing until I started investigating??

Thanks

Graham


 
Graham G wrote:

> Next question, where is best/cheapest to get the paint?? As far as I can
> figure its either anchor or "war paint".

Stephen Hull's website has some good pointers for sources, and there was
a guy at Eastnor "Paintman" ? Who sold paint for Landies

Steve
 
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 18:51:58 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G" <[email protected]>
made me spill my meths when he wrote:

>Next question, where is best/cheapest to get the paint?? As far as I can
>figure its either anchor or "war paint".

You could try these guys, their green isn't too bad. I had the pink
mixed to an existing wet sample (easier to match apparently) but the
place I used said that the NATO green was a colour they had a formula
for (albeit without the IRR proberties etc. Thing is, there is more
than one type of green out there even on the real thing.

>Another thing that occured to me today; the inside is painted with this
>anti-condensation paint.

<Four Yorkshiremen> You've got a roof? Luxury.


--
Wayne Davies - Mobile 07989 556213 - Harrogate, N.Yorks, UK
 

"steve Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Graham G wrote:
>
>> Next question, where is best/cheapest to get the paint?? As far as I can
>> figure its either anchor or "war paint".
>
> Stephen Hull's website has some good pointers for sources, and there was

I'll have a look, cheers.

> a guy at Eastnor "Paintman" ? Who sold paint for Landies

He's quite expensive compared to some. Thats not to say the paint isn't
better. Its a job to weigh it up

Graham


 

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 18:51:58 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G" <[email protected]>
> made me spill my meths when he wrote:
>
>>Next question, where is best/cheapest to get the paint?? As far as I can
>>figure its either anchor or "war paint".
>
> You could try these guys,

Which guys? war paint?

>>Another thing that occured to me today; the inside is painted with this
>>anti-condensation paint.
>
> <Four Yorkshiremen> You've got a roof? Luxury.

I know, its got windows too, ain't I posh! :eek:)


 
In message <[email protected]>
"Graham G" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Next question, where is best/cheapest to get the paint?? As far as I can
>figure its either anchor or "war paint".

I couldn't possibly answer that question I might be accused of being
biased ;)

>Another thing that occured to me today; the inside is painted with this
>anti-condensation paint. On the whole its not too bad, however in quite a
>few places it has kind of blistered and is pealing off (metal behind is
>fine, its the paint). Any suggestions how to approach this? If I neet to
>re-paint, were on earth do you get it, I did't even know there was a such
>thing until I started investigating??
>
>Thanks
>
>Graham
>
Blisters are usually caused by moisture trapped underneath or within
the paint itself and when heated this moisture will expand and burst
through the substrate in the form of blisters.
Peeling is generally caused by lack of adhesion perhaps bad preparation.

Oddly enough anti-condensation paint is water based, however you've no
idea if the preparation was done properly on the vehicle to accommodate
this special paint in the first place.
To remedy the problem I would scrape off the failed paint, rub with a
scotch-pad and repaint in the same anti-condensation paint if possible
and hope that you can match the same colour.


Steve.


--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce
 
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 18:51:58 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Next question, where is best/cheapest to get the paint?? As far as I can
>figure its either anchor or "war paint".

I'd recommend a commercial paint manufacturer. I used Stokes paints
in Sheffield (handy, only half a mile away) and had them make a
special machine enamel with extra matting agent (just give them the
colour code). This goes on very easily with a 4" gloss roller and
achieves a reasonable finish IMO.

Being a machine enamel means it's very hard wearing. I've two coats
on most of Grumble, and when it's fully cured (about a week in warm
weather) you can hit it with a hammer (oops) and it'll not care. It's
also pretty good at coping with various nasties, like oil, petrol and
the like - when one of the local scroats 'tagged' the side of Grumble,
I simply wiped it off with Acetone, the paint wasn't really affected
at all.

Best off, it costs a lot less to go to the manufacturer and means I
have (literally) bucketloads left for touching up areas that get
duffed, scratched or, erm, missed during the original job :)

 
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