Retraction of Brake Piston

Am after some advice please. My hubby is about to change the front brake pads on my Freelander. We have removed the wheel, slid the caliper housing back and removed the old pads. All fine. But on putting in the new pads and trying to retract the brake piston to slide the caliper housing back over we have found it impossible to get the piston to budge. Have tried everything (according to the Haynes Manual), and nothing works. Clamped the brake hose, undone the bleed nipple etc etc etc. Nothing. Any smart buddy out there able to nudge us and tell us what we may be doing wrong?? :doh:

Thanks

Hi,
It's important to slacken the bleed nipple on the caliper this reduces the possibility of pushing dirty fluid back up to the ABS modulator. If the piston still won't move even using a large lever, take out the bleed nipple ,It may be blocked. If the piston still won't move try a large G-cramp (as used in woodworking) if the vehicle has been standing unused for some time the piston may be siezed and you need to soak in penetrating oil overnight. Don't apply heat to the piston as this could damage the seals.

good luck. D..

The nipple doesn't have to be undone, did you slacken off the the cap on the reservoir, otherwise you could bust a piston seal.

It is normally safer to undo the bleed nipple as stated in an above post, if you do not then you run the risk of damage to the ABS.

hi guys

Thanks for the answers. We've tried everything you suggested and it still won't budge at all :scratching_chin:it's rock solid!!!!

Ok, if you have a g clamp or a brake retraction set, then tighten the clamp, back off a couple of turns then pump the brake pedal till it tightens on the the clamp, release the bleed nipple and then tighten the clamp to compress the piston, the idea is to work the piston in and out hopfully going in a more each time

Ok will have a go in the morning. Think hubby had enough now lolol But hey keep the ideas coming - something will work

booboodag said:

Ok, if you have a g clamp or a brake retraction set, then tighten the clamp, back off a couple of turns then pump the brake pedal till it tightens on the the clamp, release the bleed nipple and then tighten the clamp to compress the piston, the idea is to work the piston in and out hopfully going in a more each time

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I appreciate what you’re saying but if you have to do this to retract a caliper or wheel cylinder, it's knackered. A new or reconditioned unit is needed, don't mess with brakes.
It always concerns me when people who obviously aint got a clue what they’re doing (with the best of respect) start messing with brakes. :doh:

Sue1962 said:

hi guys

Thanks for the answers. We've tried everything you suggested and it still won't budge at all :scratching_chin:it's rock solid!!!!

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Time to seek help from your local garage then.

Update.

Have now replaced brake pads on the passenger side (the piston retracted perfectly) but on the drivers side it has completely seized. My query now is, can I just replace the piston or do I need to replace the whole caliper unit?

Sue1962 said:

Update.

Have now replaced brake pads on the passenger side (the piston retracted perfectly) but on the drivers side it has completely seized. My query now is, can I just replace the piston or do I need to replace the whole caliper unit?

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Hi Sue

In view of what you have said i would strongly recommened that you replace the whole caliper they are on e-gay for about £ 85.00 but better to be safe than sorry where brakes are concened

Hope you get it sorted

Gordon

Thanks Gordon

I was thinking the same to be honest but thought I would get a second opinion

Have looked on line on a couple of sites eg ebay and Island 4x4 and have also contacted local scrap yard who say they have two Freelanders in at the moment so popping along there tomorrow to look

Thanks again

ok Sue good luck with that dont forget to take your wellies he he

don't forget some were unvented/solid discs and some were vented, and the caliper may be a different size/shape depending on which you have.