Resetting Alarm/Immobiliser sequence.

Might be worth checking your RF receiver.

Which is just in front of the rear sunroof between the roof lining and the roof. Assuming it is a discovery with a rear sunroof.

The earth connection can start to fail. It is worth checking anyway.

Cheers

Sorry if I bumped an old thread, Would you know of any sequence for a Freelander TD4?

Hi Guys My fob has just failed and my spare has been driven to work by my husband! I have 2 codes: a four digit key code and an 8 digit code beginning 1515 with 0s contained in the last four digits. I have tried the four digit key code (which I think is a cutting code) and the 1515 as I saw mention of using that one. Neither have worked so I am left with the last four digits containg 0s or an eight digit code containing 0s.
What next?
Thanks
ok so I'm going out on a limb here the code I have is: EKA 15 15 03 10 and I have tried entering them as four numbers fifteen fifteen three an ten. It couldn't be that you have to start with the lock direction for the first number could it???
The only one I haven't tried is the individual digits 0 3 1 0 but how to enter a "0"

That 15-15-3-10(fifteen-fifteen-three-ten) can be a valid EKA and should be entered as it is and following the correct procedure, there's no such thing az entering 0.

thank you! I missed one vital step at the end ie turning the key finally to the unlock position and back to centre. Should I use the fifteen fifteen three and ten?

Yes, and pray to be the correct EKA code

hallelujah!!!
I'm in!
thanks all!

Heyyyyy!!! I've read through all this but don't think my answer is there....

I have a 110 td5 with an unchipped key and no central locking. I have an alarm/immobiliser key fob but never used it. Today the key fob (and me!) accidentally got wet wet wet. The immobiliser has turned itself on and key fob is doing nothing.

Any of you guys have any advice for me??

Yes, remobilise it with the EKA code then fix it or disable the immobiliser

sierrafery said:

Yes, remobilise it with the EKA code then fix it or disable the immobiliser

Click to expand...

Unfortunately the keyfob doesn't seem to want to un-immobilise it permanently. Or even set it actually. But every time I get out and leave the car it will set itself.

I can get in without the alarm sounding. But it won't start unless I press the keyfob first.

But as I said. The keyfob won't completely deactivate the immobiliser (which I would rather, until prob is rectified)

You need adequate tester to disable the immobiliser completely

sierrafery said:

That 15-15-3-10(fifteen-fifteen-three-ten) can be a valid EKA and should be entered as it is and following the correct procedure, there's no such thing az entering 0.View attachment 128390

Click to expand...

hi,sorry to bump an old thread but does this sequence apply to RR P38s?
Cheers.

Coley53 said:

hi,sorry to bump an old thread but does this sequence apply to RR P38s?
Cheers.

Click to expand...

I have no ideea... see a P38 owner's manual

sierrafery said:

I have no ideea... see a P38 owner's manual

Click to expand...

Have done, also checked the EKA code is correct with LR...or at least the garage my RR is currently stuck in claims it has done.
I don’t know if they have done something stupid, no problems of this nature before I took it in, it was showing sensor alerts for ABS and traction control plus a red sensor for the airbag (offside passenger door according to the garage)
I only took it there as Quik Fit said their diagnostic computer (wouldn’t talk to my car....whatever that means!)
Now, the garage originally said it was having problems getting the sensors but got them quick enough when I said I was picking it up to take to another garage.
Now they say, and demonstrated to me, immobiliser won’t disengage....they unlock the car....wait until the alarm stops..then try to enter the EKA...nowt!

Coley53 said:

Have done, also checked the EKA code is correct with LR

Click to expand...

So you know that the procedure is not like for the D2 then ?

sierrafery said:

So you know that the procedure is not like for the D2 then ?

Click to expand...

Hi, The bloke in the garage said he was following the instructions he had found in the user manual which seems to be the same as outlined on here, one of the other things he said, is that it could be the battery not being the correct model for the car.....which I thought he was talking bollocks...but I decided to replace the battery anyway and while I was ordering it I mentioned the problems I was having and the bloke said he had come across this problem before with this model!?
Anyway, new battery will be here tomorrow, if that doesn’t work I’m just going to have it recovered back to my house.

The EKA procedure seems to be the same but it's not, compare with the attachment carefully and you'll see... nr 1 is different so is the end of it and if it's not 100% respected it doesnt work... though if the vehicle is unlocked with the fob and it's still immobilised i'm affraid that the BeCM is gone, i dont see how a battery would cause that

Sorry not to have replied earlier, just to say thank you, your link with the EKA code illustration seems to have saved the day.
Though the garage claims this was what they were doing anyway!
Once again sorry for not thanking you earlier.

hi new to lanny fourm so i have a defender 90 td5 on a 1999 and have been messing around with it today started fine this morning no bother then just turned it off and wont start again now im guessin something todo with the immboiliser keep reading about doors being open and then shut and then not starting i have no key fob but do have the eka code i think its called the only other thing is there is no flashing light from the immboiliser i wondering if ive done something stupid cracks overs all lights work just no flashing light or wont fire up need some help please thanks