Disco 1 Replacing trailing arms.

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M

McBad

Active Member
Posts
107
Location
Cardiff, Wales, UK
I'm doing a suspension refurb and have replaced back springs. Shock absorbers are currently off the vehicle, which gives good access to the trailing arms. Both trailing arm chassis bushes are knackered and the chassis mountings are heavily rusted.

I want to remove the trailing arms and treat the rust properly on the chassis mounts. If I support both the chassis and axle on axle stands, near side and off side, is there any reason why I can't do both sides at once? Axle and chassis will remain connected by springs and A-frame (and brake lines!).

Reason I want to do both sides at once is that it will speed things up a lot if I can paint both sides at the same time with rust treatment, primer, top coat, underseal, rather that complete the whole lot on one side before starting the other.

Any dire warnings about doing one at a time before I get busy with the angle grinder? :)

Thanks.
 
Best of luck!
The biggest problem will be realigning everything before refitting the first arm. I'd suggest at least supporting the nose of the diff to keep everything a bit simpler, as well as putting the shocks back on.
But we all have out own ways of doing things.
 
Warning: Don’t let the axel move, even a few mill with be brain damage, when refitting the trailing arm, depends on the facilities and any assistance u may have if the axel does move of course.

I thought i had a small job replacing the front TA front round bushes just one side at a time... saves the 40mile trip each way to the LR dealer.. so the first side just 15 minutes to to jack up, remove the wheel an then replace the bush, refitting the TA back was another matter even though the axel was on a stand the TA bolt hole didn’t line up only a millimetre or three but that’s enough.

As it was back in my RR days I forget how I overcame my issue, perhaps use a bigger hammer to hit the stand and move the axle, when doing the other side was more careful... i held my breath :)
And I had to go out and buy a big ring spanner 30/32mm only used once.:D
 
Thanks both, that's reassuring. Propshaft is still on, but I'll wedge some blocks under the nose of the diff just in case. I will let you know how I get on.
 
discool said:
Warning: Don’t let the axel move, even a few mill with be brain damage, when refitting the trailing arm, depends on the facilities and any assistance u may have if the axel does move of course.

I thought i had a small job replacing the front TA front round bushes just one side at a time... saves the 40mile trip each way to the LR dealer.. so the first side just 15 minutes to to jack up, remove the wheel an then replace the bush, refitting the TA back was another matter even though the axel was on a stand the TA bolt hole didn’t line up only a millimetre or three but that’s enough.

As it was back in my RR days I forget how I overcame my issue, perhaps use a bigger hammer to hit the stand and move the axle, when doing the other side was more careful... i held my breath :)
And I had to go out and buy a big ring spanner 30/32mm only used once.:D
Click to expand...

No facilities at all, working on my concrete drive amongst the cat poo.
I thinks what I'll do is totally disassemble one side and see how bad that is and how long it takes, then take a view as to whether to complete that side with all its separate painting first, or just go for it and do the other side at the same time.
Whatever happens it's guaranteed not to be easy!
thanks
 
I've done both a 110 and a disco 1. The biggest problem is the axle moving rearward when both are disconnected.
This makes re assembly a ball ache as there isn't then enough thread on the rear radius arm to get the big nut on.
You have to improvise. I reversed mine on some bricks gently until I could get the nut on.
Good luck
 
ronsealdeath said:
I used heavy duty ratchet straps. It still moved but i was able to use the strap to pull the axle into position.
Click to expand...
Was just about to suggest this.
Tis truly amazing wotcher kin do wiv ratchet straps!
(Shh! don't tell anyone but French burglars use em. Not telling you wot for!)
 
ronsealdeath said:
I used heavy duty ratchet straps. It still moved but i was able to use the strap to pull the axle into position.
Click to expand...

Did that on a Transit camper last year, neighbour had been trying for ages to get the spring shackle to line up ...

Took me as long as it took number two son to make two teas ....:D

One for me, one for my poor sod neighbour, who had bloody knuckles an' evryfin' ...:rolleyes:
 
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