Replacing the vcu

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If the splines are seized (mine were) unscrew large bolt but leave in place, take off horse shoe clamp and use a large chisel carefully in between the yoke and bolt, yoke should move slowly off spline. Just keep screwing the bolt out and use the chisel as a wedge. Soaking in freeing off oil and leaving for a few days also helps.
 
Picked up my vcu from Bell Engineering, really helpful chap and he obviously knows his stuff!
Get it fitted tomorrow. Fwd is not good emergencies only I feel!
On the plus side I'm now a reseller for Bell Engineering:D
 
good for you :)

i got mine reconned from a gearbox specialist near me and it works a dream.
so dunt know much about Bell stuff.
 
good for you :)

i got mine reconned from a gearbox specialist near me and it works a dream.
so dunt know much about Bell stuff.

It's very nicely done you can see where the ends been cut off for cleaning and inspection then very neatly welded back on. He even uses the original Land Rover fluid hence his reputation cos you can't buy it off the shelf!
 
It's very nicely done you can see where the ends been cut off for cleaning and inspection then very neatly welded back on. He even uses the original Land Rover fluid hence his reputation cos you can't buy it off the shelf!

same with mine except ( and i believe the guy ) he says he's using some new and improved viscous fluid that lasts longer and gives better results than LR original kit.

had mine through mud, snow and gravel so i know it's doing it's job.

he did my IRD at the same time, that was 18 months ago, still going strong.
 
same with mine except ( and i believe the guy ) he says he's using some new and improved viscous fluid that lasts longer and gives better results than LR original kit.

had mine through mud, snow and gravel so i know it's doing it's job.

he did my IRD at the same time, that was 18 months ago, still going strong.

Mine gets a hard life 25% off road so it's gonna get a good test and it didn't phase him at all, just said it'll show why he doesn't get any returns! He's got real confidence in them. As ill find out at the weekend I'm sure:)
 
Mine gets a hard life 25% off road so it's gonna get a good test and it didn't phase him at all, just said it'll show why he doesn't get any returns! He's got real confidence in them. As ill find out at the weekend I'm sure:)

Oh i know/heard he's good, it's better that you're making it work hard it should last even longer :)
 
:eek::eek::eek: that is exactly what has happened:mad:, front prop will not move, soaked in wd40, tried for 4 hours in total, bent my chisel:mad::mad:, then p****d down, so had to leave it, try again this morning:rolleyes:

You want something wedge shaped and you drive it in between the yolk and the head of the bolt. The taper should force it apart!
 
You want something wedge shaped and you drive it in between the yolk and the head of the bolt. The taper should force it apart!
tryed that, that's how i bent the chisel:mad:, worked fine on the rear prop:confused:, think someone has had a go before, when removing, front bearing totally out of allignment, deriously thinking of changing uj's as well, then i can ask my mechanic to press the damn thing off:)
 
Fine if you potter round! But try pulling away quickly in the wet, terminal wheel spin, or chucking it round a round about, slides into other lane, never an issue in 4x4, it's ok if you potter round but what happens if you misjudge something, go into a bend a bit too fast! Oops I've just killed someone, it was an accident of course, I'll let my insurance company handle it, what do you mean I'm not insured! I've got to go to prison!
 
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