Replacing rear brake pipes (without lifts, on a cold driveway)

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P38_love/hatething

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Belfast, N.Ireland
Car failed MOT at weekend for rear brake pipes being all old and tired looking. Garage has quoted anything up to 4 hours labour to fit. I'm fairly handy with a spanner, but is it worth me doing the job, bearing in mind I ain't got a lift and will be doing it on a cold driveway with only a couple of halfords car ramps and the EAS set to high?

Damn this January weather... Its gone back to miserable rain today, and already i want the snow back
 
I did mine in the same way.
Dont forget the ABS. I bled mine with the engine running, been fine for 3 yrs now.

Damm now Ive said it.
 
leaving boot open immobilises EAS or it will try to level
 
Well i dint follow that procedure, as far as i remmeber, was 2 yrs ago.
When I changed the pipes, i undid the diff end first, put the new pipe on, then undid the caliper end. Allowed the fulid to flow down the pipe and tightened onto caliper.
Did the same on the other side. Then started the engine, presurised the brake system, and bled from the calipers.
I cant remmember doing the ones on the aBS.
When it was MOT'd tester said best brakes he'd seen on a P38 in ages, so it must have worked.
I didnt find it fiddly at all. with suspension on high you have good access. much better than my old MR2.
 
Cheers Dave,
I'm gonna give it a blast either this weekend or next. I'll need to keep an eye on the weather forecast, although i just got into the car and it said the outside temp was 19degrees... before rapidly dropping down unfortunately... ahhhh, its gonna be cold!

definitely would have better clearance than the MR2... unless it was the one from fifth gear when they wheelie'd them? They loaded enough weight out the back to just pivot it on the back wheels - you could tip it up by pushing on the back
 
I thought the petrol tank had to be removed to get access to this pipe?

Mine's looking a bit iffy so I was wondering about getting it replaced at the next service.
 
I did the drivers side one just before Christmas - failed my NCT (MOT equiv) due to corrosion on the brake pipe. I did it with two wheels up on a kerb. The key was buying a set of crows foot sockets :thumb: Made it a simple task. The stealers quoted me €70 just for the pipe so I went off and bought a full set of 1/2 drive crows foot sockets for €30 - Halfords used to do them but not anymore over here. Then bought Gunson Ez-bleed kit for €30 - it didn't have exactly the right cap to fit the P38 brake reservoir but I got away with it (note to self - must see if I can pick up a scrap one for future use). Removed the pipe took it to the nearest hydraulic hose man who cut off the ends to re-use the nuts and bingo €6 later, new brake line. Refitted it again and 25 minutes later finished bleeding all four corners (probably only needed to do opposite corner but wasn't sure so did all anyway) and away for road. Brakes behaved flawlessly all through white out and passed re-test on Tuesday :D

So for the price of one OE pipe I now have a further expansion to my burgeonong P38 toolkit:p
 
I did the drivers side one just before Christmas - failed my NCT (MOT equiv) due to corrosion on the brake pipe. I did it with two wheels up on a kerb. The key was buying a set of crows foot sockets :cool: Made it a simple task. The stealers quoted me €70 just for the pipe so I went off and bought a full set of 1/2 drive crows foot sockets for €30 - Halfords used to do them but not anymore over here. Then bought Gunson Ez-bleed kit for €30 - it didn't have exactly the right cap to fit the P38 brake reservoir but I got away with it (note to self - must see if I can pick up a scrap one for future use). Removed the pipe took it to the nearest hydraulic hose man who cut off the ends to re-use the nuts and bingo €6 later, new brake line. Refitted it again and 25 minutes later finished bleeding all four corners (probably only needed to do opposite corner but wasn't sure so did all anyway) and away for road. Brakes behaved flawlessly all through white out and passed re-test on Tuesday :D

So for the price of one OE pipe I now have a further expansion to my burgeonong P38 toolkit:p
 
I just bought a length of copper pipe. a flairing kit off ebay, and some nipples. Beware get the right nipples , i bought the wrong ones first time.
Also use a chipless tube cutter. I used mine from my plumbing kit. stops you getting swarf in the bore.

As to removing the tank. i didnt need to. My pipes were the ones across the axle. But for the long one front to back just re-route away from the tank along the chassis. Thats what my garage mate does on these.
 
Hello , some times you can get a way with just cleaning the pipes , if they dont leak and they feel solid enough, (if it aint broke dont fix it,,,) give all pipes concerned a good clean up, wet n dry sand paper, not too course, and a small wire brush, rub some brake fluid arond the pipes and at each end , so looks like you changed them, tell the **** brick at the garage you got a good second hand set, usually the only have a quick look, might do the trick????? BUT YOU KNOW YOUR CAR SO I WOULD DOUBLE CHECK CONDITION OF THE PIPES AND DECIED FROM THERE ,,, SAFETY FIRST....
But might get you by till warmer weather...... Hope this helps Rob
 
zx7r33 said:
so looks like you changed them, tell the **** brick at the garage you got a good second hand set, usually the only have a quick look, might do the trick?????
Click to expand...

all that does is to **** the tester off as he'll think you're trying to pull the wool over his eyes - you might then find he notices something else
 
Sean said:
all that does is to **** the tester off as he'll think you're trying to pull the wool over his eyes - you might then find he notices something else
Click to expand...


:rolleyes: **** um, its the only way some people learn, if yer wilin to do that to yer own motor they deserve all they get
 
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