Hey guys I have a Td5 2001 and it's quite slow tbh, I had the opportunite to get a NNN000130 and a friend of mine has a Nanocom and some different maps we can try, what's the process to replace my MSB to this new ecu? I know I need to get my injectors code and assign to the new ECU, is there anything else?
Disco 2 Replacing MSB to NNN
- Thread starter bahteles
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sierrafery
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Hi, you have to load a Eu2 fuel map into the NNN ECU then make it learn the security code but if it's slow for some mechanical reason simply changing the ECU would not help much, it should run well with the MSB if nothing is wrong, if you have more than 5% bigger than std tyres being automatic it's normal to be a bit slugish unless it's remapped accordingly
We manage to replace the ECU after some struggle lol.
Here are the steps if anyone need:
1- Check your current Injector Codes (mine was not reading from nanocom, every code was the same so I had to open the head cover and check one by one)
2- Write the Injector Codes with Nanocom and Learn the Securiry Code
3- (maybe optional) Disable Immobilizer
Remap to stage 1 10p and the car has much more power to launch from standing still but stop reving at ~3k rpm underload (it's not overboost, we reset the threads in the wastegate and keep closing until hits about 1bar), it feels like it's cutting out the fuel or something... my automatic transimission kind of feels weird too, like not changing gears at the right time.
My buddy thinks is the autogear box which was rebuild about 1 year ago, he thinks they probably mess up something in there
- new fuel & cool temp sensor
- new map sensor
- new maf sensor
- new wastegate modulator
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sierrafery
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Run a stall test on it:
Oh boy... that did NOT went well...
I follow the steps, break and gas for about 5 seconds, it did go to 2.800rpm but then engine check light came on along with M and S lights... now the car won't drive
sierrafery
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OMG .... Seems that this test brought up the inevitable, better this way than in the middle of nowhere or far from home somewhere... IMO that box's clutch pack was on it's way out anyway as it went up to 2800 rpm which means that the engine had enough power... would be interesting to see the fault code now
.... Seems that this test brought up the inevitable, better this way than in the middle of nowhere or far from home somewhere... IMO that box's clutch pack was on it's way out anyway as it went up to 2800 rpm which means that the engine had enough power... would be interesting to see the fault code now
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Idk man... I was driving pretty hard before doing the test, I actually disconneced the AAP sensor and the car was insane, lots of power going strong to 4k rpmOMG
sierrafery
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If it had a lot of power with AAP disconnected something is wrong as the boost should have been limited to 1 bar that way.
That stall test is from the wsm and it's meant to reveal the problems shown in it based on the rpm results it's not supposed to ruin anything, it was made several times on many vehicles i saw and you are the first with this unfortunate outcome ... what's the fault code stored in the autobox ECU now, eventually other code beside the AAP open circuit in the ECM?
That stall test is from the wsm and it's meant to reveal the problems shown in it based on the rpm results it's not supposed to ruin anything, it was made several times on many vehicles i saw and you are the first with this unfortunate outcome ... what's the fault code stored in the autobox ECU now, eventually other code beside the AAP open circuit in the ECM?
I don't have a scanner atm but I swap back to my old ECU and the M/S lights are gone and I can drive again... ufff
Anyway, before my unfortunate M/S lights accident lol, I was doing some tests in the streets and the best result I got was bypass in the vaccum wastegate solenoid + AAP disconnected, I've got 1.2 bars on my turbo gauge (although I'm not sure I trust that clock) but there was plenty of power, not sure about fuel consumption though
sierrafery
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That's not the way to properly diagnose this issue, it goes nowhere relevant IMO... the only sensor which's default when it's disconnected is close to optimal performance is the MAF and relevant only for Eu3 engines, AAP or MAP have defauts for limited boost also bypassing the wastegate solenoid is reducing performance unless it's an overboost issue which in your case is not.... record an "inputs fuelling" log to SD card from a drive with all the sensors connected when you have access to that nanocom again and post the result here then i'll tell you more
I dont have access to a nanocom atm and probably will not anytime soon but, intrigued by the fact the disconnecting the AAP sensor the car runs better, I decided to unwrap the plastic cover from the harness and find out that someone mess up the 3 cables and duct tape then... I remove the duct tape and it seems the cable is fine apparently. Is there a way I can test this with a voltimeter? I think it's an eletrical issue for sure, something is send the wrong signal to ecu and messing up the air/fuel mix
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sierrafery
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I don't know any way to test the AAP sensor with multimeter unless it's open or short circuit, isolate those wires as to make sure they don't touch each other and if it runs better with AAP disconnected thn with it connected it should be the sign that the sensor is faulty while it's still reading but the default for this is boost limited to 1 bar so with a 100% good sensor it should run better than on default. If everything is OK beside the AAP sensor and you fit a known good one if you clamp the boost hose to the wastegate valve the engine must go to overboost under heavy load that's certain
Although the wires were exposed they were pretty isolated already so I will look for a AAP sensor to replace it, I know you previously said that these sensors are very rare to be fault but perhaps I'm that lucky haha, I've already replace everything else so it must be it.
ps* mine is a 10p btw
sierrafery
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that was quite obvious for me from the beginning but the 3 wire AAP confirmed it 100%
So @sierrafery I finallyyy got myself a Nanocom!
My first tests shows a Coolant temp sensor fault even though I already replace the sensor (maybe wires?)
And I undo the turbo bypass and connected the AAP sensor back on, are the Ambient pres and Air Inlet within default values or is it way off? Maf seems to be ok, 57 idle and ~550 load
My first tests shows a Coolant temp sensor fault even though I already replace the sensor (maybe wires?)
And I undo the turbo bypass and connected the AAP sensor back on, are the Ambient pres and Air Inlet within default values or is it way off? Maf seems to be ok, 57 idle and ~550 load
sierrafery
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Is that with the NNN ECU?
Yes, remapped NNN ECU
sierrafery
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Are you sure it's remapped for Eu2? what's the fuel tune and config ID?
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