Replacing knackered bits (90)

After many weeks of fighting my (first) 90 I bought in the summer and 4 trips on a big yella' taxi trying to keep the wretched thing on the road and running I've given into taking it off the road for a month or 2 to replace all the worn parts so I can finally start adding bits instead

Anyone have any suggestions for jobs missed of my list?

On the job list so far;

• Front radius arm bushes - though the arms are thinner than the axle brackets (any advice here is more than welcome how to sort this
• Rear link bushes
• A-frame ball joint
• A-frame link bushes
• Steering box - its fubar'd (input shaft collapsed)
• Steering UJs
• Steering dampener
• Front prop UJs (rear's already been done)
  
• Front diff - got some slack in it (rear's already been done)
  
• Front wheel bearings (rears seem OK)
  
• Brake service
• Handbrake service (works but might as well have a skeg at it whilst I'm at it)
• Waxoyl t'chassis
  
• Oil renewals when I'm all done

You are in for some fun!
There are two widths on the radius arms ealry cars have thinner ones, but it depends on what year the axle is
A frame bush pita
A frame little bushes easy if the two long bolts come out
Steering box recon
Steering ujs new shaft
Damper cheap britpart std works just fine
Prop buy new much less hassle takes minutes
Diff is prob fine its wear in your drive members again cheap will work fine, the h/g shiny ones are good value.
Wheel bearings not the cheap britpart ones timken is the way to go
Brakes check for seizing callipers again new one 40 quid so dont mess about rebuilding
Handbrake if its works avoid
Waxoyl crap try ankor wax lots of people swear by dinitrol.

But have to say cant see any of the above actually stopping the car running, what were the 4 breakdowns?

Roaming Wombat said:

After many weeks of fighting my (first) 90 I bought in the summer and 4 trips on a big yella' taxi trying to keep the wretched thing on the road and running I've given into taking it off the road for a month or 2 to replace all the worn parts so I can finally start adding bits instead

Anyone have any suggestions for jobs missed of my list?

On the job list so far;

• Front radius arm bushes - though the arms are thinner than the axle brackets (any advice here is more than welcome how to sort this
• Rear link bushes
• A-frame ball joint
• A-frame link bushes
• Steering box - its fubar'd (input shaft collapsed)
• Steering UJs
• Steering dampener
• Front prop UJs (rear's already been done)
  
• Front diff - got some slack in it (rear's already been done)
  
• Front wheel bearings (rears seem OK)
  
• Brake service
• Handbrake service (works but might as well have a skeg at it whilst I'm at it)
• Waxoyl t'chassis
  
• Oil renewals when I'm all done

Click to expand...

Pretty usual stuff that wears out on a high mileage landy.
As above, radius arms come in two thicknesses, chances are someone has fitted a later axle, if so, probably easier to get the later arms from a breaker and rebush.
Use quality bearings, UJs etc. or you may end up doing it again.
I don't much like waxoyl either, if the chassis is fairly good might be worth spending on Dinitrol, especially for the inside.

Chassis is in good condition considering the age but I suspect will need some welding at some point, its has some in the past, though looks like the welder was cack handed because they're not the tidiest.

Not sold on Dinitrol at the moment, was aiming to slap waxoyl on to get through the Welsh winter then Dinitrol next time.

Axle is likely Disco 1 as I'm running 24 splines and this being a TDi conversion.

The 4 breakdowns:

1. Rear diff fooked - my ignorance at the time and lack of tools meant recovery was the only way to get home - I had zero Landy knowledge at the time.
2. Death wobble - after changing rod ends, drag link end, drop arm ball joint wobble was only very slight. Until it goosed the drop arm ball joint near Aberdare.
3. Death wobble - after panhard rod bushes done - discovery of radius arms issue was made here
4. This was just recovery to get home after number 3 happened

The drop arm ball joint is a terrible idea, when I did mine I went for the new arm as much less hassle.
I swore at mine many a time but it never failed to get me home and was everyday motor for 4 years, once had to bump start it (a feat in itself) as starter goosed, apart form that I ran a snag list and each week attended to whatever needed doing, most of it is simple preventative maintanence.

Drop arm ball joint takes 10mins to change (well when its already disassemble most of itself for your convenience)
I'd love to get to the stage of the snag list going down rather than up... this exercise should go along way to achieving that.