Disco 2 Replacing Discovery 2 roof rail gaskets

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Keith_L

Keith_L

Well-Known Member
Posts
408
Location
Worcestershire, UK
I'm going to have a go at replacing the roof rail gaskets myself whilst the headlining is off, as even though they don't currently leak they look a bit past their best. I have searched and read various posts but none seem to specifically cover this process, although several refer to it. I want to be fully prepared before I start taking anything off and find myself with four new holes in the roof, so a few questions if I may:

For a 2002 model am I right in thinking I need the one-piece gaskets CAJ500020/30/40/50? I have seen reference to two-piece gaskets but I think they are for the earlier cars?

I assume that the roof rail has an embedded stud that goes through the gasket, through the roof and there is a washer and a Nyloc on the inside to secure it. Is that correct?

I've seen reference to item CYB100100 plug-blanking. What is it and do I need any for this job?

Does the gasket locate on the roof or the rail or is it a matter of holding it in position whilst the nut is positioned?

Is there a particular torque setting for tightening the nut?

Do I need any additional sealant anywhere or will the new gaskets do the job on their own?

Any other tips I might find useful?

Sorry for all the questions but this will probably be the biggest job I've ever done on a car and I don't want to c*ck it up - the car leaks enough as it is without me making it worse.
 
I think replacing the roof lining will be the bigger job!
Why not take off what you have and look at it? Then you can put it back on while you order new? Maybe with a touch of sealant to be going on with?
Sorry if this is too obvious.:(
 
The garage are doing the headlining for me as part of sealing the sunroofs. :)

It is obvious, but I didn't want to take it all off, only to find I couldn't put it back together again, or couldn't get the parts I needed, especially as it looks like it's going to be raining for the next few days.
 
Keith_L said:
The garage are doing the headlining for me as part of sealing the sunroofs. :)

It is obvious, but I didn't want to take it all off, only to find I couldn't put it back together again, or couldn't get the parts I needed, especially as it looks like it's going to be raining for the next few days.
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Aha, so a garage is involved!
Oops!
Well as they are going to be in there so to speak, I'd get them to do it too.:)
 
The garage took the headlining out and resealed the sunroofs - a job I didn't want to tackle. I've got the car back until I am happy they aren't leaking and I've cleaned and painted the headlining, at which point they will put the headlining back in.
I hadn't thought about the roof rails being a possible source of water ingress until someone on the Forum mentioned it, so I thought that might be a job I could tackle myself, but I won't start until I'm happy what I'm doing.
 
Headliign out is not a bad job.
OK it is a PITA as you have to undo lots of stuff but it is not a bad job. There are lots of tutorials on teh interweb to do it.

Other than that, seal the outer sunroof flange using a good sealant and give the roof rails a good squirt of sealant as that should do the job.

There is a whole load if info ref the water ingress into the cabin of a D2, windscreen top corner, etc etc, in fact LR produced a series of tech bulletins.


Cheers
 
Keith_L said:
I'm going to have a go at replacing the roof rail gaskets myself whilst the headlining is off, as even though they don't currently leak they look a bit past their best. I have searched and read various posts but none seem to specifically cover this process, although several refer to it. I want to be fully prepared before I start taking anything off and find myself with four new holes in the roof, so a few questions if I may:

For a 2002 model am I right in thinking I need the one-piece gaskets CAJ500020/30/40/50? I have seen reference to two-piece gaskets but I think they are for the earlier cars?

I assume that the roof rail has an embedded stud that goes through the gasket, through the roof and there is a washer and a Nyloc on the inside to secure it. Is that correct?

I've seen reference to item CYB100100 plug-blanking. What is it and do I need any for this job?

Does the gasket locate on the roof or the rail or is it a matter of holding it in position whilst the nut is positioned?

Is there a particular torque setting for tightening the nut?

Do I need any additional sealant anywhere or will the new gaskets do the job on their own?

Any other tips I might find useful?

Sorry for all the questions but this will probably be the biggest job I've ever done on a car and I don't want to c*ck it up - the car leaks enough as it is without me making it worse.
Click to expand...
Hi, I take it from the gasket p/no's you listed you have the tubular type roof rails. The gaskets fit over turrets on the roof bar, which are then secured with the nyloc nuts you mention. On my MY2001 (non tubular type) there is a drilling on the roof bars which the plug goes into & has no bearing on leaks. I like you wanted to make sure when I replaced the gaskets nothing leaked so I put Sikaflex 221 round the gaskets as well. The p/no's ending 40 & 50 have been discontinued according to the LR parts list but might be available as (new/old stock) or pattern parts (I used pattern part gaskets from Steve Parkers). If you have rear air con you have to drill out the rivets holding the ducting to access the rear roof bar nyloc nuts, Having said that it's a straight forward job.
 
@Andy Warren Thanks once again for your help. Couldn't you sleep?
As far as I am aware I have standard roof rails - see photo, so maybe I need to look at the part numbers again. No rear a/c which should help.
 

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Keith_L said:
@Andy Warren Thanks once again for your help. Couldn't . sleep?
As far as I am aware I have standard roof rails - see photo, so maybe I need to look at the part numbers again. No rear a/c which should help.
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I didn't realise it was that late lol.
Your r/bars are the same as mine & you can get a kit of gaskets from Steve Parkers as I mentioned, the gaskets have a self adhesive side so they stick to the bar/turret, see pic. Ignore the writing as they sent a wrong gasket in the kit first time round but they got it right in the end :)
20201016_182233.jpg
20201016_182002.jpg

Here's a pic
 
If I remember on mine the front fixings have was washers on them which easily drop in to the metal roof bracing so before you remove the nuts & when they become free of the nyloc insert put a small screw driver or similar in the centre of the stud & undo the last bit by hand & let the nut & washer slide down the shank & the same for reassembly. Hope that makes sense, all the best.
 
Right, I finally got all the bits together to do this job, plus a nice dry day and the time to do it. The rails came off surprisingly easily. I cleaned up the roof, removed the old gaskets from the rails, cleaned off all the old glue and cleaned up the rails with Autoglym Vinyl cleaner. They came up a treat. I then started to stick the new gaskets to the rails and realised that the right rear and left rear gaskets were both left rear gaskets - right part numbers but Land Rover had put the wrong one in the packet. A quick call to my local dealer and a replacement was on order for tomorrow, so I started on the left hand rail. I positioned the rail, put the nuts and washers on and started to tighten them up to 24 lb.ft. The front one went on fine but the back one didn't feel right so I decided to start again. As I undid the nut the threaded piece came away in my hand. It looks like the thread in the rail has stripped. So, two options - try and find a replacement left hand roof rail or try and re-glue the threaded portion back into the rail.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to the best way to re-glue this or am I wasting my time? Alternatively, does anyone have a left hand rail for a 2002 Discovery that is cluttering up their garage?
 

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Keith_L said:
Right, I finally got all the bits together to do this job, plus a nice dry day and the time to do it. The rails came off surprisingly easily. I cleaned up the roof, removed the old gaskets from the rails, cleaned off all the old glue and cleaned up the rails with Autoglym Vinyl cleaner. They came up a treat. I then started to stick the new gaskets to the rails and realised that the right rear and left rear gaskets were both left rear gaskets - right part numbers but Land Rover had put the wrong one in the packet. A quick call to my local dealer and a replacement was on order for tomorrow, so I started on the left hand rail. I positioned the rail, put the nuts and washers on and started to tighten them up to 24 lb.ft. The front one went on fine but the back one didn't feel right so I decided to start again. As I undid the nut the threaded piece came away in my hand. It looks like the thread in the rail has stripped. So, two options - try and find a replacement left hand roof rail or try and re-glue the threaded portion back into the rail.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to the best way to re-glue this or am I wasting my time? Alternatively, does anyone have a left hand rail for a 2002 Discovery that is cluttering up their garage?
Click to expand...
Hi, sorry to hear about the stripped thread, just what you need. (Almost typical of LR's you get so far & they kick you in the nether regions). I would helicoil it if it were me, although I did have great success with JB weld in 'welding' the magnet back in my condenser fan it certainly sets like concrete. The only other way is to drill/tap to 10mm (check first if the roof hole will take a 10mm stud) then cut the head off a appropriately lengthed 10mm bolt & thread lock it in. If you intend to put any weight on the r/bars, roof box etc I wouldn't want to glue it in.
 
Thanks for that. I'm not planning on using the roof rails - they are just a posh way of filling 4 holes in the roof. Sometime this afternoon I did think about sealing them up in some way and doing away with the roof rails altogether. At this
stage I just need the threaded portion to hold well enough to allow me to tighten the nut and make the gasket watertight.

I've never used a Helicoil before so I'll take a look at that, but I may try the JB Weld to start with and see how I get on.

Just checked the weather - it's going to rain all night and tomorrow so let's hope my duct tape keeps the rain out until I can get this sorted. Sigh....
 
Keith_L said:
Thanks for that. I'm not planning on using the roof rails - they are just a posh way of filling 4 holes in the roof. Sometime this afternoon I did think about sealing them up in some way and doing away with the roof rails altogether. At this
stage I just need the threaded portion to hold well enough to allow me to tighten the nut and make the gasket watertight.

I've never used a Helicoil before so I'll take a look at that, but I may try the JB Weld to start with and see how I get on.

Just checked the weather - it's going to rain all night and tomorrow so let's hope my duct tape keeps the rain out until I can get this sorted. Sigh....
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For a one off use you could take the rail to most independent garages car or motorcycle & get a Helicoil or Timesert fitted to save buying a kit but they are simple to use if you decide to buy one.
The tape should work ok it's just a pain to remove the adhesive if it's left on too long in the heat. Funny you should mention the wrong (or two the same) gaskets in the pack as when I got mine I had the same problem (S Parkers) in fact when they sent a replacement gskt. out it was still wrong & it was a case of third time lucky.
I didn't mention it as they apologised, said it was a new batch in & it would be sorted out but as you can see from my previous pics that was last October !
Anyway I hope you get it sorted & let us know what you do.
 
Replacement gasket arrived from Land Rover. Exactly the same as the one before i.e. for the other side. The parts man was very apologetic, took photos of the wrong item, the old one that came off and the roof rail itself. He said he will e-mail Land Rover and request a stock check. He'll let me know, but he's not holding his breath.
Worse case I can use the wrong one - remove the glue that is there somehow, turn it over and glue the other side with impact adhesive or something. I assume the glue is just there to stop the gasket moving during installation and serves no longer term purpose.
Oh yes, and the Sika Flex I bought the other day has a use by date of Jan 2021. I'm doomed at the moment.
 
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