neilly
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I think you need to check rave young man........ or do you want me to google it for you???
Cheers
Replacing 300TDI turbo with VNT
- Thread starter gymmaniac
- Start date
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I think you need to check rave young man........ or do you want me to google it for you???
Cheers
neilly
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OK, I got bored and looked for you.
Cheers
Cheers
neilly
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Or in the same manual.
Cheers
Cheers
gymmaniac
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Hi BFG,
I've got a line running from the inlet manfold to a pressure gauge in the cab.
#10 wasn't my post - just an internet pic of something I have similar. Are you referring to the stripe lock? This is a VNT turbo.
I tapped a hole in the exhaust manifold bull horn closest the bulkhead. Not wired up yet.
gymmaniac
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oh yeah, and I've got the full size intercooler fitted too.
gymmaniac
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Install new turbo instructions:
Remove turbo assembly
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Drain engine oil and change oil filter (fill filter with oil before refitting or take an age priming later!)
3. Slacken the clamps and remove the air trunking connecting the intercooler to the inlet manifold.
4. Unscrew the two inlet manifold lower securing nuts, located below the exhaust manifold
5. Unscrew the inlet manifold upper securing bolts, and withdraw the manifold upwards.
Inlet manifold now removed
6. Loosen the securing clips and remove the air cleaner-to-turbocharger inlet trunking and the turbocharger outlet-to-intercooler trunking.
7. Unscrew the two securing bolts and disconnect the EGR delivery pipe from the intercooler-to-inlet manifold trunking.
8. Disconnect the wiring plug from the EGR valve.
9. Disconnect the exhaust front section from the turbo charger – note gasket to be removed
10. Disconnect the turbocharger boost pressure pipe from the turbocharger.
11. Unscrew the remaining manifold securing nuts then lift complete manifold/turbocharger assembly from the cylinder head. (two nuts on left and right bull horns, 3 nuts on the middle section – 3rd hiding underneath!)
Exhaust manifold and turbo now removed
12. Remove manifold gasket and thoroughly clean
13. Refit any manifold securing studs that have come out (remove with double-nut if necessary to clean up). Check if the dip stick gets in the way of the front lower stud – leave this one out for later if necessary.
14. Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the turbocharger oil feed and return hose from the cylinder block.
15. Plug the open end of the hoses and at the cylinder block.
16. Remove all crankcase breather hoses and filters. Check for restrictions, clean and replace where necessary.
Everything removed
17. Clean up block of all the oil that’s been spilt over it so you can tell if you’ve got a leak later.
Fit new turbo
(Check blanking plugs are removed from pipes.)
1. Fit new bull horns
2. If Silicon oil drain pipe is secured by jubilee clips consider fitting to turbo at this point as it’s a bugger to get on after it’s in the engine.
3. Fit the turbo assembly - exhaust manifold securing nuts/bolts - 45Nm (centre first)
4. Reconnect the operating lever to the wastegate pushrod using a new clip – if refurbishing
5. Fit the gasket and the exhaust manifold and refit the coolant pipe to the top manifold studs. Refit the securing nuts and washers progressively to the specified torque. – 45Nm
6. Reconnect the turbocharger boost pressure pipe.
7. Renew engine oil
8. Put container underneath the engine (turbocharger oil feed).
9. Crank the engine (car jacked up in 5th gear, spin wheel in forward driven direction) so at least ½ pint (300ml) is pumped out of turbocharger oil feed pipe and ensure it is clean. – this may take some time!
10. Reconnect the turbocharger oil pipes, prime turbo and securely tighten the union nuts
a. Oil drain pipe to cylinder block adaptor – 38Nm
b. Oil feed pipe to cylinder block adaptor – 25Nm
c. Oil feed pipe to turbocharger – 19Nm
d. Prime the turbo: Crank engine until engine oil flows out of the turbo charger bearing housing
e. Oil drain pipe to turbo charger – 25Nm
11. Reconnect the exhaust front section to the turbocharger - 45Nm
12. Reconnect the EGR valve wiring plug.
13. Refit the air trunking and reconnect the breather hose to the inlet trunking
14. Reconnect the EGR delivery pipe to the intercooler-to-inlet manifold trunking and tighten the securing bolts. – 25Nm
15. Refit the inlet manifold – 25Nm
Test drive
If you’ve used WD40 all over the place to get bolts loose expect a bit of smoke in the engine bay coming from the exhaust…
Remove turbo assembly
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Drain engine oil and change oil filter (fill filter with oil before refitting or take an age priming later!)
3. Slacken the clamps and remove the air trunking connecting the intercooler to the inlet manifold.
4. Unscrew the two inlet manifold lower securing nuts, located below the exhaust manifold
5. Unscrew the inlet manifold upper securing bolts, and withdraw the manifold upwards.
Inlet manifold now removed
6. Loosen the securing clips and remove the air cleaner-to-turbocharger inlet trunking and the turbocharger outlet-to-intercooler trunking.
7. Unscrew the two securing bolts and disconnect the EGR delivery pipe from the intercooler-to-inlet manifold trunking.
8. Disconnect the wiring plug from the EGR valve.
9. Disconnect the exhaust front section from the turbo charger – note gasket to be removed
10. Disconnect the turbocharger boost pressure pipe from the turbocharger.
11. Unscrew the remaining manifold securing nuts then lift complete manifold/turbocharger assembly from the cylinder head. (two nuts on left and right bull horns, 3 nuts on the middle section – 3rd hiding underneath!)
Exhaust manifold and turbo now removed
12. Remove manifold gasket and thoroughly clean
13. Refit any manifold securing studs that have come out (remove with double-nut if necessary to clean up). Check if the dip stick gets in the way of the front lower stud – leave this one out for later if necessary.
14. Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the turbocharger oil feed and return hose from the cylinder block.
15. Plug the open end of the hoses and at the cylinder block.
16. Remove all crankcase breather hoses and filters. Check for restrictions, clean and replace where necessary.
Everything removed
17. Clean up block of all the oil that’s been spilt over it so you can tell if you’ve got a leak later.
Fit new turbo
(Check blanking plugs are removed from pipes.)
1. Fit new bull horns
2. If Silicon oil drain pipe is secured by jubilee clips consider fitting to turbo at this point as it’s a bugger to get on after it’s in the engine.
3. Fit the turbo assembly - exhaust manifold securing nuts/bolts - 45Nm (centre first)
4. Reconnect the operating lever to the wastegate pushrod using a new clip – if refurbishing
5. Fit the gasket and the exhaust manifold and refit the coolant pipe to the top manifold studs. Refit the securing nuts and washers progressively to the specified torque. – 45Nm
6. Reconnect the turbocharger boost pressure pipe.
7. Renew engine oil
8. Put container underneath the engine (turbocharger oil feed).
9. Crank the engine (car jacked up in 5th gear, spin wheel in forward driven direction) so at least ½ pint (300ml) is pumped out of turbocharger oil feed pipe and ensure it is clean. – this may take some time!
10. Reconnect the turbocharger oil pipes, prime turbo and securely tighten the union nuts
a. Oil drain pipe to cylinder block adaptor – 38Nm
b. Oil feed pipe to cylinder block adaptor – 25Nm
c. Oil feed pipe to turbocharger – 19Nm
d. Prime the turbo: Crank engine until engine oil flows out of the turbo charger bearing housing
e. Oil drain pipe to turbo charger – 25Nm
11. Reconnect the exhaust front section to the turbocharger - 45Nm
12. Reconnect the EGR valve wiring plug.
13. Refit the air trunking and reconnect the breather hose to the inlet trunking
14. Reconnect the EGR delivery pipe to the intercooler-to-inlet manifold trunking and tighten the securing bolts. – 25Nm
15. Refit the inlet manifold – 25Nm
Test drive
If you’ve used WD40 all over the place to get bolts loose expect a bit of smoke in the engine bay coming from the exhaust…
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Sorry, neilly. I'm on the drink
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I wasn't far off by memory, for an old manI think you need to check rave young man........ or do you want me to google it for you???
Cheers
neilly
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I wasn't far off by memory, for an old man
And you think I aint??
crank it too 30 Psi, then see what your missus says.
Cheers
Hicap phill
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I hear the screams of the missus....the footwell is melting
I know
- my point was that why seal an adjustment - it strikes me as more anti-tamper nanny state nonsense - So your VNT spools up nice and early, and is now strangled by a low max boost pressure Fine idea - #4 is always the hottest - I'm going to copy you - mine was in the EGR blanking plate, which of course, had to be moved for the last MOT after the rule change
, and is now just above the manifold outlet where there is a boss, which I drilled and tapped ..... temps are now much lower, which is essentially worthless - we NEED to know the CH temp - so the closer you can measure to the CH, the better.....Good
- I have too Thanks. Glad my memory isn't completely fubar - Have you got a fred on your mods? - I'm interested to know what you have done
neilly
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Thanks. Glad my memory isn't completely fubar - Have you got a fred on your mods? - I'm interested to know what you have done
No thread done, but basically the following.
Boost Pin
Boost ring
Hybrid turbo
Twin inlet manifold
Tweaked pump.
Double depth IC.
Boost up to 27 PSi ,
Turbo gauges on both the wastegate inlet pipe and the inlet manifold. just out of curiosity.
EGT digital gauge
Coolant digital gauge from removed EGR sensor position on top of head.
I keep meaning to check the setting on the FIP using a dial indicator, but will wait until it gets a bit warmer.
Cheers
ifloochies
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neilly
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neilly
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ifloochies
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Hats off to you mate....that looks stunning!!
gymmaniac
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LOL I got lucky there then
just thought it would be closest to the bulkhead so easiest to fit. I'm too scared I'll cook the engine or damage it some other way to go over the top with the mods. I tried a boost pin and slightly adjusting the fuel pump but ended up over fueling so backed off everything again.
What's the red cylinder beside the horns under the inlet manifold? It can't be the starter motor....?
Do I take from your post that the sensor on the CH behind the coolant pipe is a temp sensor that the EGR valve uses? My EGR is in place but suitably defunct. I doubt my MOT garage would be aware if this sensor was repurposed.
cheers
neilly
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LOL I got lucky there then
I'm too scared I'll cook the engine or damage it some other way to go over the top with the mods. I tried a boost pin and slightly adjusting the fuel pump but ended up over fueling so backed off everything again.
What's the red cylinder beside the horns under the inlet manifold? It can't be the starter motor....?
Do I take from your post that the sensor on the CH behind the coolant pipe is a temp sensor that the EGR valve uses? My EGR is in place but suitably defunct. I doubt my MOT garage would be aware if this sensor was repurposed.
cheers
I took it slowly , and drove it , tuned it, if it was OTT then I backed it off. I still have a little fine tuning to do as I think a little more fuel at pre boost would be nice.
The red cylinder is the air pump for the air horns.
Yes, that is the coolant sensor. Works really nicely.
Cheers
gymmaniac
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shiny, like it!
