Replacing 15p with 10p on a Defender

Hello everybody. I am new to this forum and until now I have been reading only. I see there are some very smart guys here who know a lot about TD5 engines. I have a bunch of non standard questions and I hope some of you can point me to the right direction. So here is the situation I am at the moment:
I have a Defender 2004 which was original with 15p engine with over 300k km on the dash. It was not running good and here is what I did
* Egr removed - no difference
* Cat removed - no difference
* Bought second hand Dastek Unichip from Ebay (came from a defender td5) - this one made a difference, but in my opinion it should run much better.
* Got offer for a good 10p engine from Discovery at 140k km so I took it and put it in the car with a friend of mine (he did most of the job. He is a good at mechanics but he does not know the electronics.
Also not a big difference after engine change just much less rattles (which could be due to new flywheel).
What I think is that the car have some issues and is not in a good condition so the power box gave it some better performance but I still need to sort out the problems.
After engine change I wanted to change the injectors harness, because there was oil in the plug so when we opened the cover we find out there was 1 green top injector and rest of them was black.
What else should I do to have this 10p work correct with the rest of the stuff is 15p?I know we must code the injectors for them to work correct. Should I remove the green one and replace it with a black top one (I have 5 black spares), or I can benefit to put all of them green for better performance?
Do you think this Dastek Unichip is ok or should I find someone to remap my NNW Ecu. (I am not sure I can find the right guy to do it where I live)
Is it worth to try to fit the wastegate modulator that came with disco engine or it will not give me any benefit?
Also I am thinking if order a new OEM MAF sensor. I have try to drive the car with it unplugged and there is no difference at all. Does this mean that it is faulty?

Sorry for getting this long post but I did my best to compress al that information.

First off, the question everyone is going to ask is.... have you had this on a nanocom and checked for live readings, fault codes etc.. ? (other devices are available)

Hi tilly, thank you for your answer (question). I have not checked the car on any devices like nanocom. This sounds like the logical thing to do.

Dastke unichip good bit of kit, I had one on a td5 disco.
It also lost power over a period of time, in the end it was the MAP sensor in top of the inlet manifold that was out of range.

I liked the car a lot, but out of the many land rovers I have owned this was without a shadow of a doubt the most troublesome.

Hi, definitely change the green top injector with black also you'll need to remap the NNN ECU with a Eu2 fuel map and if you do that get a tuned map from the beginning then you can get rid of that external unichip which is just fooling the engine ECU with false inputs and playing with injector durations. I'm sure that if a dedicated tester will be connected you'll find loads of hystorical fault codes stored. Untill then do this trick https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/ cos you might have a faulty pump but if that's OK this thing can't be properly diagnosed without a diagnostic tool. You should have bought a nanocom instead of that piggyback chip IMO

Thanks for your advices sierrafery. I have measured the mV across the fuse of the fuel pump. The meter showed 31 mV. So I guess this means the pump is working correct. I also measured the voltage between pin1 and pin2 on the MAF sensor with engine running. It gave me about 1.6V. I watched this on youtube for how to test the MAF so maybe it is also in a good condition.
About injectors I will change the green one this weekend and I will go to a guy who have LandRover diagnostic tool to read faults and code the injectors.
About the nanocom is that the correct stuff I need:
https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/shop/product/ncom01
I am thinking to buy one, but I am not really sure what I can do with it. Maybe look for some faults and clear them. I have no knowledge about live data and what parameters I should check. I have no tuned maps...

You can record live data with nanocom on SD card, save to computer and post the file here then you'll get answers, or you can watch them live and then you'll see what's wrong, diagnosing a MAF(which is not completely dead) with multimeter is a bad joke, for the symptom you describe the AAP or MAP/IAT sensors are suspect and you can see that only with live data when the symptom occurs. Also you can buy tuned file from online stores and load it with nanocom into your ECU, google out " nanocom remap td5". I attached a rough reading list which was made for D2 but for Defender it's quite the same

Just opened the cambox to replace the green injector with a black one but actually I remembered wrong. It was the black injector that’s one. Other 4 are green top. So should I replace all of them with black Or better look for one green. How can I check if this is actually a 10p head or it could be 15?

Look at the FPR if it has the external fuel pipe it's 15P(pointed with arrow), 10P doesnt have that

The FPR is 10p. The head is marked 1999 year. It looks very weird that an engine with only 140k km had 4 of 5 injectors replaced. Anyway, I decided to give my 5 black spare injectors for a test, because I have bought them 3 years ago as a second hand I am not sure if they are good. If they are fine I will replace all the injectors with this 5 and then code them together with the remap.
Also my friend says that with this injectors the car is working very good, no smoke or any other issue. Probably they are all good and working but I want to make this car as good as possible because I plan to use it for a long distance travels. So I guess that black top injectors would be the best option for this engine.

I was told that I need to change the AAP sensor with 3 wire one from 10p. Should I do this and if yes what should I do with the 4 wires plug? Which 3 of the 4 wires should I use?

facy said:

I was told that I need to change the AAP sensor with 3 wire one from 10p. Should I do this and if yes what should I do with the 4 wires plug? Which 3 of the 4 wires should I use?

Click to expand...

Not like that, you can't simply swap AAP sensors without a remap, depends on what fuel map is in the ECU, the 4 wire AAP/T works with Eu3 maps, the other with Eu2 and they have a different reading curves and if yiu have Eu3 fuel map the ECU will miss the temperature input from the 4'th wire and go to default

Thanks sierrafery, your advices are priceless So I will put the black top injectors and look for a AAP sensor. So I can change it together with the remap. If you can just tell me which one of the wires will become useless. And is the change so simple:
Just cut the 4wire plug and install the 3 wire plug, leaving one of the wires isolated on side.

Yes, you can let the green/blue wire unused just make sure it doesnt touch anything but a professionist remapper should know to adjust the Eu2 map as to use the existing sensor cos a 3 wire one is very expensive and too important to put used one, it's explained here https://discotd5.com/ecu-reverse-engineering/aapaat-sensor-swapping

Hmm, I am not so sure if the remapper I will use is so skilled. If I knew about all this issues I would probably rebuild my 15p engine.... Ok can you explain to me why exactly I need a Eu2 map? Is it only because of the black injectors? As I can imagine beside them all other stuff is 15p. And if the injectors are the only reason isn't it easier to use green top injectors and stay with the Eu3 map and not change anything. (As much as I have read in the web green injectors can be used in 10p head, just not using their full potential). Sorry for this questions, they might sound stupid for you but I want to understand what is what..

I only know how things are working well, i dont know how green top injectors will work in 10P but maybe that would be the easyest for you to try then you'll see