Replacement transfer box ECU not working

Hello guys (and ladies, if there are some), as this is my first post i reckon i should introduce myself. I'm a newish (2 months) owner of a '95 P38 DT Manual with 300k km on the clock. The beast was pretty well mantained mechanically (the owner actually kept changing oil at the stealers even at this mileage), it was never driven off the road, the airbags, compressor, FIP and stuff were changed just a little while ago, but there are few quirks that have come with the car.

One of them developed after driving in low range for few minutes an then switching back to high. Everything went OK until few minutes after strange smell started filling the cabin. GF remark was, that my ass was burning as there were fumes coming from under the drivers seat. I pulled over and realised, that the transfer box ECU was burning inside its metal case (luckily some clever guy at LR decided it should be metal, or else my ass would really have been on fire).

Off went the ECU and i ordered a replacement one off eBay. Wasn't the same product number but those have changed a lot during the P38 production lifespan, so after consulting few websites i bought one off a '96 DSE Manual (so just a year newer than mine).

And now the trouble. I connected the replacement ECU and tried to switch to Lo, the light on the range selector switch just kept blinking (it was switching between ranges in few seconds before the incident), but nothing happened. After about a minute of blinking i restarted the car and it was gone. The message centre displays the usual messages if car not in neutral or going to fast, but displays no errors as for why it is not switching to Lo range.

Does the new box need activation with a TestBook, a recalibration of the position sensor or something?

Thanks for help,

chort

was it a new or used replacement ,alot of used broken parts about,is motor on t/box okay,should just work if swapping ecu without plugging in unless other fault,why did other burn

Could be the motor seized and caused the ECU to burn.

Well, didn't test the t/box motor yet, but it worked well before the burning incident with the ECU, as it shifted between the ranges in 3-5 seconds.
I just replaced the ECU with a (i hope) working second hand one. I don't really know why the old one burnt out, i took it apart and it was all charcoal black, i guess one of the capacitors failed.

i'll try to operate the motor via jumper cables, thanks