replaced vacuum pump.. Now it won't start

they have 2 slots on the shaft 1 been deeper than the other, they should turn easily by hand

jamesmartin said:

they have 2 slots on the shaft 1 been deeper than the other, they should turn easily by hand

Click to expand...

Yeah.... I see from the old one it's easy to turn, it didn't occur to me the new one would be too stiff and jam the screw gear and camshaft.

I assumed it was just a new pump thing. The scoring I can see on the inside of the lid of the new one isn't a good sign. It's not genuine LR, but also not the blue box either.

why dont you check old one out it might just need vanes reversing ie worn side to the center and a new o ring

jamesmartin said:

why dont you check old one out it might just need vanes reversing ie worn side to the center and a new o ring

Click to expand...

I did try the vanes, but that didn't help. Sliconed the lid on too. Neither helped.

is one way valve on top working

jamesmartin said:

is one way valve on top working

Click to expand...

Yep seems to be.

Hi chaps,

I'm just getting round to putting this all back together. Regarding the timing, is it just a case of turning the camshaft cog round to the timing mark, or does it need to turn through more than one revolution?

I'm guessing it slipped by about 90-120 degrees, so I'm not sure if the timing is as easy as getting the marks lined up or if all the sprockets need to set in a certain sequence? BTW I don't have a TDC mark on my flywheel if I need one.

Cheers in advance

Just set all the timing marks up to point at the pointers, that's all I did the 2 times I have had an engine totally to bits

its only when belts fitted do you need to think about turning over twice etc

flat said:

Just set all the timing marks up to point at the pointers, that's all I did the 2 times I have had an engine totally to bits

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Righto thanks. I've done that but wanted to make sure. I noticed the crankshaft makes more than one revolution for each Rev of then fuel pump cog, so thought there might be a 'sequence' but perhaps not.

Cheers all

all that stuff is sorted out because of the different size of the toothed wheels. The crank one is smaller so will turn faster than the fpia d camshaft ones.

Will double double check in the book but I don't recall doing anything more than lining it all up and tensioning the belt

Okay have double checked - read this

Are the vanes the right way round in the vac pump? Im sure they go one way as one of the edges is chamfered. Not sure if that would cause your overly tight issue though

flat said:

Okay have double checked - read this

Click to expand...

and ?

Hmm as I thought, the lack of EP or TDC mark on my flywheel could be a problem. For some reason I must have a later flywheel, and can't even remember seeing a slot. Guess if there is a slot it'd still line up with the timing marker, or would it be the drain plug on the bottom, as per later MY setups?

plug for timing pin is at the top of bellhousing drivers side ,you can use mar on crank pulley

jamesmartin said:

plug for timing pin is at the top of bellhousing drivers side ,you can use mar on crank pulley

Click to expand...

I've got the "pointer window" on my bell housing. Is lining up the mark on the crank pulley with the arrow casting on the timing case the same as using the flywheel then?

timing is set at ep ,that is when pump and cam should align also

jamesmartin said:

timing is set at ep ,that is when pump and cam should align also

Click to expand...

Yeah,,but without an EP mark on the flywheel.. How can I tell when I'm at EP?

id be surprised if fly wheel wasnt marked or a slot