Removing then replacing towbar wiring, disco 2 TD5

Hi All,
I'm taking the towbar off temporarily to make it easier for the guy to fit a new rear chassis. Got the bolts undone but don't know if it is possible to disconnect the electrics from their plug in the rear behind the light cluster and then pull it through below.
Don't want to have to individually disconnect each wire from the plug on the bar then rewire it again.
Is there any other way of doing this? (Plug on bar is fixed to the bar, not to a separate plate, cannot just remove screws/nuts and pull it though a hole or anything.)
Obviously the tow bar was fitted when I bought the vehicle.

(Boy is the rear chassis in a state! Knew it needed attention but passed last MOT, not even an advisory. Seems to have just gone mad in last few months!)

Sadly they rot from within. They can seem fine externally and then rapidly deteriorate as the rust reaches the surface.

Stanleysteamer said:

Hi All,
I'm taking the towbar off temporarily to make it easier for the guy to fit a new rear chassis. Got the bolts undone but don't know if it is possible to disconnect the electrics from their plug in the rear behind the light cluster and then pull it through below.
Don't want to have to individually disconnect each wire from the plug on the bar then rewire it again.
Is there any other way of doing this? (Plug on bar is fixed to the bar, not to a separate plate, cannot just remove screws/nuts and pull it though a hole or anything.)
Obviously the tow bar was fitted when I bought the vehicle.

(Boy is the rear chassis in a state! Knew it needed attention but passed last MOT, not even an advisory. Seems to have just gone mad in last few months!)

Click to expand...

The easiest way is to just cut it behind the rear light cluster mine was tapped into the loom & leave enough to re-join it easily & use crimp heat shrink connectors. Simples

Yerp!
Dreaded that!
Never used these connectors before, usually used crimp connectors or soldered them then put heat shrink around the joint but have Googled them and found various makes, they look good do you have a preferred make?

Si Click said:

Sadly they rot from within. They can seem fine externally and then rapidly deteriorate as the rust reaches the surface.

Click to expand...

Knew it needed work, just cannot get over how it seems to have just exploded recently.
Need to make sure there is nothing wrong with the box, which has been a little iffy recently before I decide to get it repaired for £200 or replaced for £700, both plus VAT, unfortunately.
Typically this is my least liked Disco but it is going to cost me the most money! And it has needed more work on it since I got it than the Anniversary which we have owned since about 2004.
But then I'm being a bit unfair as the Annie also needs body welding. At least it is manual and has a new clutch, which I only fitted as a precaution knowing how much towing it was going to be doing. (The old one turned out to be fine, sod's law!) MUST get it back on the road!

Am wavering a bit between crimp-and-heatshrink connectors or bullet connectors and heatshrink wrap.
Reason being, knowing this vehicle and the way it is treating me I will probably need to spend even more money on it in the near future, also I really would rather get back to driving the Anniversary.
So, you will all call me a cheapskate, but I am going to go for the cheaper plating job, for the time being, and use the money saved to ensure things like the gear box hold up.
BUT, if I eventually need to replace the rear chassis, I'll need to undo the connectors again, so the bullets, although under heatshrink, will be able to be pulled apart and then reheatshrinked once the work is done. Kinda convoluted thinking I know.
Wonder when these crimp-then-heatshrink connectors came out! Not around when I built the last loom I built for a kit car! All joints soldered and tested for resistance back then!

Stanleysteamer said:

I'll need to undo the connectors again, so the bullets, although under heatshrink, will be able to be pulled apart and then reheatshrinked once the work is done. Kinda convoluted thinking I know.
Wonder when these crimp-then-heatshrink connectors came out!

Click to expand...

Google out "posi lock connectors" that's the way to go these days, not the cheapest but very good, easy to use, no heatshrink is needed completely reusable and perfect contact, watch this

sierrafery said:

Google out "posi lock connectors" that's the way to go these days, not the cheapest but very good, easy to use, no heatshrink is needed completely reusable and perfect contact, watch this

Click to expand...

Id forgot about them a lad at work uses them, I don't do much wiring so il use up
my stock of cheapo ones.

Had just bought what I needed, before seeing this as I already had bullet connectors in stock, so Im gonna use 'em with the heat shrink I got today.
These look great but seem to still need some sort of weather protection.

And you are right, they ain't cheap especially as I can only find one supplier and postage etc is half the cost again. Plus I think I would only get a few in one pack so'd need to buy two packs.

Stanleysteamer said:

don't know if it is possible to disconnect the electrics from their plug in the rear behind the light cluster and then pull it through below.

Click to expand...

Yes it is, If it is a genuine LR it will unplug from behind the lamp cluster and pull down the rear pillar from below.

Right, since writing this I decided that it was simpler to totally replace the plug(s) (see other thread) so I have disconnected them both, the wiring is in excellent condition, so when the welding is done and I put it back together, I will have new plugs and I will not need to cut and then reconnect the wiring anywhere else. So I bought the stuff for no immediate need. But as always I know it will get used eventually.
Also getting the rear light cover off was no picnic, I had to drill one screw out and at the tow bar I had to drill quite a few out as well, so even stevens. But at least with no extraneous connections in the rear quarter, there is less chance of failing connections.
However if I had known that the plug in there would pass through I might well have done that and the whole thing would have gone a bit quicker! So thanks for that Intercept.
When I took the plugs off the amount of rusty scale behind them on the towbar was a bit surprising! So doubtless this will get treated and painted before being put back on.

Anyway, thanks to all for your contributions.