Removing the sump

Got the head off my Freelander as it has a burnt exhaust valve on cylinder 2 so I'm basically taking the opportunity to fit all the new parts I bought a while ago while it's all in bits.

I have an uprated oil rail to fit as well though I've had a quick flick through the RAVE manual and can't find any information online about people's own experiences with it.

Just want to know if it's as easy as it looks and if removing the bolts for the IRD mount and such would impact any? Any things to look out for would be appreciated as well if anyone has experience on the matter.

Cheers,
Nick

make sure the liners are clamped.

Not to bad. Exhaust front pipe off, bottom engine link off, IRD bracket off, unbolt sump & remove. Clean up sump while it's off, especially the face to the block. Remove oil pick-up and replace it's 'O' ring, unbolt oil rail. Clean faces where the new sealant will go, fit new rail, oil pick-up...

do you know why it has burnt the valve? you need to find out why or you will have it all over again.

teddywood1 said:

do you know why it has burnt the valve? you need to find out why or you will have it all over again.

Click to expand...

Coolant way to the exhaust side of cylinder 2 was full of crap - cleaned out and tidied up the casting a little bit so unless it's not that I'll be rather stumped :s

Just removed the sump on my K series last night and it wasn't too bad. Pretty much as HTR said the lower engine support bracket needs to come off and has lots of bolts held in with locktite. Hard work but fairly easy to get at, then lots of 10mm bolts on the sump + a couple of 13mm (I think) bolting into the gearbox.

Make sure you use the correct anaerobic sealant for the oil rail and sump. Silicone / RTV isn't any good. I use Loctite 574 for these joints.