Removing the air filter bracket

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Z

ZeHerman

Member
Posts
32
Location
Germany
Has anyone here figured out a solid way to remove and re-attach the air filter bracket without taking the screws from the cylinder head out? I was thinking of cutting the bracket and somehow re-mounting it either in a different place or by re-attaching it, but haven't found a good solution.

Would love to hear if anyone has figured this out. I don't want to risk warping my engine just for the sake of servicing the vacuum pump.
 
ZeHerman said:
Has anyone here figured out a solid way to remove and re-attach the air filter bracket without taking the screws from the cylinder head out? I was thinking of cutting the bracket and somehow re-mounting it either in a different place or by re-attaching it, but haven't found a good solution.

Would love to hear if anyone has figured this out. I don't want to risk warping my engine just for the sake of servicing the vacuum pump.
Click to expand...

I changed my vacuum pump a year or two ago, and did it without removing the air filter bracket. It was a little fiddly to get to bolts and retorque, but it can be done. I removed the air filter housing, pipes etc to give a bit more space, and then undid the bolts to the vacuum pump, doing a few from below.

Definitely would be a lot easier with the bracket removed, but can be done without!
 
Thanks for the insight. I finally found some time next weekend to tackle this, so you replied just in time. I'll give it a shot with the bracket in place. Did you jack up the car or just left it as is?

Also, I am looking to remove the injector pipers for the first two cylinders to get easier access to the fuel pump which I'll also replace in the process. As far as I am aware, they can simple be installed again right after without any adjustment to the injector pump or anything else, right? Just going to make sure that they remain clean while out, so no dirt gets into the injectors.
 
Didn’t need to jack - there should be plenty of space without doing so if you do need to get in from below. I didn’t take injector pipes off, but that would give more space and easy to do - shouldn’t need any adjustment to the pump after, although might just need to prime/bleed if air gets in.
 
ZeHerman said:
Thanks for the insight. I finally found some time next weekend to tackle this, so you replied just in time. I'll give it a shot with the bracket in place. Did you jack up the car or just left it as is?

Also, I am looking to remove the injector pipers for the first two cylinders to get easier access to the fuel pump which I'll also replace in the process. As far as I am aware, they can simple be installed again right after without any adjustment to the injector pump or anything else, right? Just going to make sure that they remain clean while out, so no dirt gets into the injectors.
Click to expand...

Inj pipes back on and crank it, it will try and start on two then quickly catch on the other two.
 
So, 90 % of the procedure is done, but I am now facing another problem. I also replaced the lift pump as I thought it was broken. Turns out both the old and the new one work fine, but the priming lever just never works. No matter what position I put the camshaft in, the priming lever never works. There is always pressure on the pump from the camshaft.

I ordered a little spacer part to sit between the engine block and the pump, but it will take a few weeks to arrive. Is there another problem that might cause this, or even a solution?
 
It can be tricky to get it in place - I replaced lift pump earlier this year, and was convinced I had bought a faulty unit. I had same symptoms as you have described initially - no resistance to the priming lever no matter where the crank was positioned. But in the end it was just that I hadn't quite got the lever positioned correctly on the shaft when I put the pump in place. Removing the pump and replacing it with the camshaft rotated slightly seemed to do the job, and it has worked fine since!

Others will likely know better, but I'm not sure if there is a sure-fire way to get this right every time? But would suggest you take it out, rotate cam and reposition.
 
I added the pump now with 3 paper gaskets in place as suggested by this gentleman:

Works a charm! Replacing the fuel pump wasn't as fiddly as I had imagined. An extension piece on the ratched makes the bolts easy to reach. The injector pipes are perfectly bent to let the ratched extension pass through - at least one thing Land Rover got right when designing this :D

The vacuum pump is also replaced. Was a bit fiddly but working from below for some bolts definitely helped!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Conversion of an oil bath air filter to run a snorkel
Replies
6
Views
229
grewth
G
yfo866
Oil and filter change on 101 with the original V8
Replies
2
Views
2K
Rangieman123
Rangieman123
JokerUK
Sport MAP/MAPT Sensors on 4.2 S/C
Replies
0
Views
894
JokerUK
JokerUK
DefendingLancashire
300TDI Four-parter: brake wear, lift pump / fuel filter, turbo, and bushes / squeaking
Replies
13
Views
619
miktdish
miktdish
xDParis64
Freelander 1 Converting from wasted spark to distributor (or Visa Versa)
Replies
0
Views
461
xDParis64
xDParis64
Back
Top