Reluctant Starter

What ho chaps;

My ex-military 2.5 N/A seems to be rather a reluctant starter in that there is a bit of soot and smaoke upon start up and a bit of a stutter until she gets in to her stride. I have replaced the battery which went flat by its own accord and have changed the glowplugs for some shiny new Bosch ones - this being the extent of my mechanical knowledge sadly

Any other suggestions as to what the problem might be in simplistic terms....or is it just the case that 'they are all like that'?

is this when the engines hot or cold?

Only when cold - i.e. starting for the first time that day. Every other subsequent she starts in less than half a turn of the starter motor

normal. could try changing the fuel filter but i wouldn't worry about it its an old engine they smoke a bit i have one too only with a turbo. horrible thing.

And here too...dont use throttle at all til she fires up...a good 30 second pre-warm from a high CCA (Cold Cranking Amp) rated battery...

storm99 said:

And here too...dont use throttle at all til she fires up...a good 30 second pre-warm from a high CCA (Cold Cranking Amp) rated battery...

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Or the clutch! special in built cold start mechanism if you leave the pedals alone

Thanks for that Gentlemen; a great relief....I just need to clean the side of the garage wall that is peppered with soot now to appease management:croc:

MudHunter said:

Or the clutch! special in built cold start mechanism if you leave the pedals alone

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The clutch has got absolutly NOT ONE BIT to do with the cold start mechanism.

Dipping the clutch on starting IS a good idea.

discomania said:

The clutch has got absolutly NOT ONE BIT to do with the cold start mechanism.

Dipping the clutch on starting IS a good idea.

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just going with what it says in the manual

When I first got her the battery was all but useless and not keeping charge (now replaced with a Bosch S4 Silver) so each morning I HAD to dip the clutch, turn off the heater and pray....which would have worked were it not for an intermitent slave cylinder fault, sending her lurching forward when the starter motor engaged!

MudHunter said:

just going with what it says in the manual

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I would be interested to see what it says; I do not disbelieve you but I have seen loads of 2.5NA's and the very similar 2.5TD, I have stripped and rebuilt the LUCAS injection pump as fitted to these engines and I cannot see how the clutch being dipped would cause starting issues.

Regarding the cold start mechanism I know how it works on these pumps and what makes it work (I have even written a lengthy section on how to make sure it continues to work properly) and I have not seen, nor can I understand how ANY pedal OTHER than the throttle could make any difference to this engines starting characteristics.

ye makes sense now you explain it I have a 2.5td when i firs got it it was a bastard to get going on a cold morning then I read the manual its fine now. Nice to know I can use the clutch now though will make the starter last longer

I'm with disco here...plus i'd be buggered if i couldnt use the clutch as i always leave in gear...a throwback to my spitfire days where the handbrake failing was a common problem....

mines always in gear as my handbrake only gets used for mots

Incidentally - should anyone wish to buy my Tractor; you'll find her in the For Sale section. Sadly she needs to go due to my being "financially challenged"....which is a travesty really.

MudHunter said:

Or the clutch! special in built cold start mechanism if you leave the pedals alone

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Hi, I am hopefully about to get a 110 defender (I know, I can't help myself) Just reading a few posts about starting the 2.5 n/a diesel engine. Can you tell me more about the "built in cold starting mechanism". Over the years and with most older diesel vehicle I have had I usually fully press the clutch and throtle pedals to the floor, I find this halfs the load on the starter as you are not spinning a heavy gearbox over, just the engine. On a few of the newer models I sometimes don't especially once engine is warm, they start anyway.

Also what model gearbox should a 1988 110 defender have on it.

Regards

MudHunter said:

Or the clutch! special in built cold start mechanism if you leave the pedals alone

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HI MudHunter.

Can you tell me a little more about the "special built in cold start" please.

I have only just got a 1988 110 2.5 n/a When i went to pick it up 3 three weeks ago the bloke was not home from work, landy was stone cold. He put the brand new battery on it, jumped in and cranked it over. Bingo, fired up first go (big smiles from me). I drove it a few miles to my sisters to see how it went and left it there until I was ready to get it mot'd. Yesterday I went to sisters got in landy, put throttle and clutch to floor (generally good practice on most old diesels I have had) Engine cranked over but not a hint of action. Tried vainly to get it to fire up but nothing. Checked for fuel at injectors etc but not a drip when cranking over.

Decided to give it a quick pull with the german beast and it started instantly. Drove it 30 miles to the mot station and it ent great, passed mot with full honours. So, what is this starting thing, I have had several landies over the years S2a 88 rag top S3 109 Disco 200 tdi and now a 110.

Regards

Mercanlandy

Blimey...'waking the thread'.

Its easy...dont touch the throttle at all. Just turn key to pre-warm position, count to 20 seconds, ish, then turn key to start. DO NOT TOUCH THROTTLE!!...It should start...if it doesn't ...repeat this...only give her some gas when she fires up.

Mine is a 20 second pre-warm...trial and error will find the spot where yours is...could be more, could be less.

mine is 10 seconds

mine was onna timed relay