Recommended gasket set for 4.6 top end rebuild?

Hi All,

I'm trying to price up the cost of overhauling my top end when I sort out my leaking HG. Is this one from Island 4x4 ok? It's got Elring composite HGs in it, which I've at least heard of from somewhere on here...?

Head Gasket Set (Includes Elring Head Gasket) P38 4.0/4.6 STC4082EL Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

What about head bolts? Do I need to replace them and if so are their stretch bolts mentioned in that ad what I need?

Also, where's the best place to get a cam, followers, rockers etc these days?

Lastly, am I wasting my time just redoing the top end on an engine that has done 160k miles? Not sure my mechanical skills are up to doing the bottom end. I have done a HG on an old 3.5 V8 years ago, so I should be able to just about manage it, but I'm half thinking maybe a recon engine might be a better bet... (or an L322...)

Guy

If you have heavy cam wear then the main and big-end shells will need replacing through saarf damage. They cost next to nothing and are easy to do. Although the mains nearest the rear of the engine can be tricky in situ. People often leave the rear ones undisturbed. Only buy oem camfollowers from land rover. Most aftermarket ones are ****.

payen

I have used elring a couple of times as I couldnt get payen all good

Elring on mine too, can't fault them.

I've just done mine a hundred miles ago. Used Elring HG's with new bolts. I also ended up using a metal not composite valley gasket. I couldn't get the compo one to seal but i may have had a more unique issue. Oh and head bolts are 5/8's not metric. Just as a heads (no pun) up

doz said:

I've just done mine a hundred miles ago. Used Elring HG's with new bolts. I also ended up using a metal not composite valley gasket. I couldn't get the compo one to seal but i may have had a more unique issue. Oh and head bolts are 5/8's not metric. Just as a heads (no pun) up

Click to expand...

Head bolt threads are 7/16-14.when I rebuilt my engine I used elring gaskets and an arp head stud kit,never had any problems,but my block was top hatted at the time

doz said:

I've just done mine a hundred miles ago. Used Elring HG's with new bolts. I also ended up using a metal not composite valley gasket. I couldn't get the compo one to seal but i may have had a more unique issue. Oh and head bolts are 5/8's not metric. Just as a heads (no pun) up

Click to expand...

Yes they are and it is very important NOT to use a 16 mm bihex socket to try and undo them. You are likely to round them off. ALWAYS use a single hex 5/8 AF socket on these.

Thanks for the replies - apologies for my tardiness, but I don't seem to be receiving notifications for some reason.

What about replacement head bolts? Are the standard bolts 'stretch' bolts or am I missing something? I just bought what Unipart told me to use last time!

kooky_guy said:

Thanks for the replies - apologies for my tardiness, but I don't seem to be receiving notifications for some reason.

What about replacement head bolts? Are the standard bolts 'stretch' bolts or am I missing something? I just bought what Unipart told me to use last time!

Click to expand...

Standard bolts are stretch bolts. Make sure each bolt screws in freely and fully then lightly lubricate the thread and head to washer before assembly. A light coat of Moly grease is best for that job.

Thanks Wammers. Very helpful.

Guy