Disco 3 (LR3) Rear wheel camber

Hi guys, the 2 rear wheel on my d3 are definitely at different camber one I’d say is correct but the left one definitely seams too straight. Also the outer edge of that tyre is wearing on the wheel that’s too straight.

any ideas? A simple tracking/alignment job or is it control arm bushes?

any help would be great

matt

Nsr trye on mine wore weird and it was the top knuckle bush, new bush fitted cheap and easy, thought it was going to be a pita but actually chiuffed how easy it was.

Apparently top arm failure is also quite common with the bushes chassis end going tits up and can be a right swine, i know Gary on here had a right mission to get his off.
Mines 136k still original rear arms

New bush was a copy and wasnt to tight a fit, so out came the centre punch and slatherings of loctite, I should add I am bit of an animal and dont care what I have to do/break to get the job done I just want it done, so some might cringe when they see the pics!
Apparently the knuckle can take three new bushes then its dead! so not sure if copy bush was junk or knuckle was worn?
Either way iot went together and has been on there for approx 14 mths now so maybe 7k mileage
Ps no need for fancy puller, two sockets and some m12 studding will do just as well.
Ps bolt is concentric so make sure you measure the centre of bolt to something solid so new one is set/adjusted in the same place.
If it is in fact your arms good luck

lynall said:

Nsr trye on mine wore weird and it was the top knuckle bush, new bush fitted cheap and easy, thought it was going to be a pita but actually chiuffed how easy it was.

Apparently top arm failure is also quite common with the bushes chassis end going tits up and can be a right swine, i know Gary on here had a right mission to get his off.
Mines 136k still original rear arms

New bush was a copy and wasnt to tight a fit, so out came the centre punch and slatherings of loctite, I should add I am bit of an animal and dont care what I have to do/break to get the job done I just want it done, so some might cringe when they see the pics!
Apparently the knuckle can take three new bushes then its dead! so not sure if copy bush was junk or knuckle was worn?
Either way iot went together and has been on there for approx 14 mths now so maybe 7k mileage
Ps no need for fancy puller, two sockets and some m12 studding will do just as well.
Ps bolt is concentric so make sure you measure the centre of bolt to something solid so new one is set/adjusted in the same place.
If it is in fact your arms good luck

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hiya

indeed getting those upper arms off was a right £#&@&@&@

Matt BB said:

Hi guys, the 2 rear wheel on my d3 are definitely at different camber one I’d say is correct but the left one definitely seams too straight. Also the outer edge of that tyre is wearing on the wheel that’s too straight.

any ideas? A simple tracking/alignment job or is it control arm bushes?

any help would be great

matt

Click to expand...

hiya

set ur suspension to access height , grab the top of the tyre and rock it, see if u get any movement

if u don’t find anything get a 4 x wheel alignment done, the hunter systems are extremely good as they also give u a print out before and after

also make sure they check the steering wheel angle sensor, as if that’s not correct ur DSC will start kicking in and can cause all sorts of issues

see how u get on first in access height and plse let us know

Matt BB said:

any ideas? A simple tracking/alignment job or is it control arm bushes?

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Bushes or complete wishbones are needed. They're a known weakness, so need regular checking and replacement when worn.

Hi guys, thanks for reply’s. Traction control is kicking in in the corners. Really really badly when I’ve got my trailer on the back. It kicks in both left and right corners but definitely worse on the side of the wheel that the tyre is wearing funny.

I will try the rocking wheel to see if there is any movement.

I’m on 145k so if it’s all original parts I guess they are shot then?

Matt BB said:

Hi guys, thanks for reply’s. Traction control is kicking in in the corners. Really really badly when I’ve got my trailer on the back. It kicks in both left and right corners but definitely worse on the side of the wheel that the tyre is wearing funny.

I will try the rocking wheel to see if there is any movement.

I’m on 145k so if it’s all original parts I guess they are shot then?

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hiya

that can be a few things with the DSC kicking in, worn arms, alignment or the steering wheel angle sensor is out of calibration

if indeed they are all original I bet there’ll be knackered , mine were at 95,000 miles and needed changing

If ur good at spannering and need to change the arms ur save a fortune doing them urself , but be prepared to struggle it the camber bolts have seized solid, they have to be cut out and the bolts are high tensile steel

indeed Plse let us know if u get any movement , ensure it’s in access height mode as in normal height u may not feel any movement

plenty here to always help

ps, also assume the belts front and rear have been done inc the oil pump cover

It’s in the book as timing belt being done but I never trust a stamp in a book so will be ensuring it’s done.

I usually do my own work yes but these are built so different to your run of the mill car I came on here.

so if I was to change the lot, what is there to change to give it a new back end? Top & Bottom arms? And knuckle bushes? Is that it?

I don’t fancy changing one thing as the rest will surely follow, I’d just knuckle down and get the lot done over the weekend.

haven’t had change to test movement yet as it’s been teeming down all day

I’ve just remembered something, I can hear a noise when adjusting the ride height. Kind of a knock/click/snag of some sort going from normal to access the other morning.

Matt BB said:

It’s in the book as timing belt being done but I never trust a stamp in a book so will be ensuring it’s done.

I usually do my own work yes but these are built so different to your run of the mill car I came on here.

so if I was to change the lot, what is there to change to give it a new back end? Top & Bottom arms? And knuckle bushes? Is that it?

I don’t fancy changing one thing as the rest will surely follow, I’d just knuckle down and get the lot done over the weekend.

haven’t had change to test movement yet as it’s been teeming down all day

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Before you buy any parts take a good hard look at the rear brake back plates.

No movement on access hight at all, had the whole car rocking with no movement on wheel. I guess this doesn’t rule out arms completely though. Could just be the wrong camber ?

Matt BB said:

No movement on access hight at all, had the whole car rocking with no movement on wheel. I guess this doesn’t rule out arms completely though. Could just be the wrong camber ?

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The only way to tell the condition of the bushes, is to lever them to see how much movement there is. They fail often, so any movement should be easy to spot.

It’s all developed a bit now after driving into town for lunch today got loads of messages on screen (no special programs available) (suspension dropped to access hight) (no HDC) is this all bush related?

if I kill engine and restart all back to normal for anything up to 5 mile then all shuts down again.

being Xmas haven’t had chance to get under it yet

hope everyone having a good Xmas

U0401-68 - invalid data received from engine control module

C1 A00-88 - Control module

U01 28-87 - lost communication with parking brake module

Matt BB said:

U0401-68 - invalid data received from engine control module

C1 A00-88 - Control module

U01 28-87 - lost communication with parking brake module

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hiya

sounds like ur having fun, Not, what diagnostics did u use, where they cleared and is this what came back plse

think u have several issues there, alignment out of calibration and ur suspension compressor is worn

personally would find out the alignment is first and foremost 100% by having a 4 x wheel hunter alignment done, whilst up on the ramp can use a bar to check every Bush , inc wheel bearings and a general inspection

steering wheel angle angle sensor is checked

live data psi readings of suspension compressor

does it drop over night

hope that at least gets u started

Ps, many of us have bought our own diagnostics , gap iid , alas are £405 but pay for themselves very quickly

Also and not telling u how to suck eggs, Do NOT get under the disco under any circumstances without using axle stands, as they self level and can drop without warning


Some links for u, which hopefully will be useful, any further help plenty here so please feel free to ask

http://media.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/15405/Land Rover factory D3 air suspension description.pdf

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/al...s_and_Testing_Vehicle_Dynamic_Suspension_.pdf

Hi, the suspension side of things generally feels fine. No drop over night. When I get out of the car and lock it drops instantly just a touch but friends dies this. If I select to raise suspension it does so very quickly. Compressor then fills the tank briefly and that’s that. (obviously I’m no expert on this but generally doesn’t feel like any issue there at all)

last night I left home to my mates house, managed to drive all the way there and park with no faults coming up on dash. Yet when I left it all lit up in seconds of driving.

ive not long had the car and as usual with second hand cars it takes some time to go through all the issues and sort them out. Car drove spot on when I bought it but it’s like it’s falling apart on me within 10 weeks.

I used a fox well scanner, I know the front wheel bearings are on there way (Didn’t think it was that urgent or would cause this)

and I know the left rear wheel camber is off

I guess it all could be contributing factors

Wheel bearings can cause all sorts of issues
My front collapsed with 25 miles to go and bought up loads of dash warnings, she was asleep so just just kept rolling.

It was a cheap bearing that managed all of 15k, the one to fit is Timken, naturally it is twice the price of the cheapie!