Rear hub bushings - upper and lower

Hi All,
been reading the various threads on the replacement of these bushes, but just before I go ordering a load of parts, with my car if you apply a rotational force to the disc back plate the top bush moves back and forward ! I take it they're not meant to do this, or are they? I don't get any squeaks , in fact I was just minding my own business just about to change some discs! How jobs grow.
Any help very much appreciated as usual.

If your talking about the rose joints located in the upper and lower section of the hub, they are not meant to have play but it all depends on how bad the play is! Also the bolt will most likely to be seized and possibly needs to be cut out also 4 wheel alignment has to be set again. As I said before depends how bad the play is if I was you I would live with a small amount of play but thats me.

Thanks Matt,
yes I was talking about the upper and lower bushes, with the off set bolt washers for setting up the geometry, these upper bushes actually move about 2-3 mm back to front when a rotational force is applied. Guess they need doing.

If you do it with the wheel on you tend to find the movement at right hand 2 o'clock and left hand at 8oclock and 10 and 4 o'clock 2/3mm isnt alot of play in them and they can be a right pain in the arse to do the official land rover way is to use a threaded bar and cup to press them in and out I find it can work on some cars and not on others ie seized in bolt I tend to heat alitle and beat them out and then clean and press in the new ones there is a snap ring as well and that you will need a new one also. If you do it do one at a time and make sure you have a jack to jack up the hub to get the bolt in as you wont lift it with the air spring pressure forcing it down

Thanks for the advice Matt, is it easier to depressurize the suspension? I've had a problem getting the car up in the air enough to take the wheels off, do you have any suggestions for this as my last attempt included a 2" thick block on the trolley jack under the trailing arm which obviously won't work completely for the job in hand.

theres a complete description of the tools you need and the way to do this job on fullfatrr.com ,I've done the 2 lower ones myself and once I realised I needed the handbrake off it took about 40mins each side ,buy new bolts and a decent little blow torch aswell as a 18-24" breaker bar best to ahve 2 jacks and 4 axle stands aswell ,the best piece of gear is a bush pull and press kit which I got for £120 on ebay miles easier than farting about with sockets and bits of threaded bar . but the pain is if the top ones need doing then the alignment almost definitely needs checking afterwards.

birchy71 said:

once I realised I needed the handbrake off

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THANK YOU !!! i have done one side of mine today, top and bottom and new tie rod following the fullfatrr post and i had to also cut off my inner tie rod bolt either side of the bush as it was rust welded to the inner bush preventing the tracking from being adjusted with the new bush and i did well up until trying to line up the top bush that was tricky but the bottom bush was impossible.

i struggled for over two hours to try and get the bottom bolt in and all the time in the back of my mind i remembered about a post somewhere about letting the hand brake off and i let it off once but was concerned that even with the wheels chocked it might tip off the axle stands so i put it straight back on continued to fight on.

i then tried it again some hours later and the damn thing fell in place - mother hubbard !!!!

nearside tomorrow...

thanks a million

same here was 2 hours trying to line the swine up(bottom one ) but live and learn.

i also bought the ebay kit, i couldn't imagine doing the job without it especially as the the land rover tools are about £150 for one

i probably spent 1 1/2hours just sawing through the tie rod bolt with an air hacksaw, might try my 1mm cut off discs in the grinder..

cheers

What you need is a sabre saw we have a snap on one at work and it gets the bolts cut both sides in 10 minutes but at £550 it is not cheap

matt1987 said:

What you need is a sabre saw we have a snap on one at work and it gets the bolts cut both sides in 10 minutes but at £550 it is not cheap

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yes you are dead right, my mate did offer to lend me one but i persevered with the air version which takes a standard chopped down hacksaw blade but i may take him up on it to do the other side. there are some quite reasonable ones on the net to buy as well

it was amazing how solid the bolt was in the sleeve, once i had the tie rod out i tried punching the sawn off bolt from inside the steel bush tube and it was rock solid