Rear floor gone, guidance...

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davek0974

davek0974

Well-Known Member
Posts
4,848
Location
Bishops Stortford, Herts.
Hi all,

while i was waiting to get the crank oil seal to finish my timing belt change, i thought id apply some more captain tolleys' around the rear windows to stem the flood that collects in the rear load cover:mad:

I though id check the rear mats just to be sure and yep, soaking wet underneath but dry on top. Out came the mats and the floor has gone, several holes at front edge and failed all along rear door jam.

I was not too worried as i know they suffer from this but that foam underlay - WHY???

So i'll get a new floor panel, is there a good thread for floor removal?? Also whats dgood to paint it with afterwards for some protection? I was thinking hammerite or is there a better product? I guess the seams will need sealing too.

Is rivetting good enough or do i have to get the welder out?

I want to put the underlay back so its drying out indoors, but what is the most common cause of water ingress on the rear trim just below the off side alpine light. I think i've got it sealed, we'll see when it rains i guess. Do the gutters leak??

Many thanks
dave
 
My fathers discovery had a simalar problem,
The leak was coming from the windows in the back at the top there was a little tiny hole near the rubber seal both sides, he had the floor welded
 
but the mot tester cant see most of the floor , im gonna stir up the debate again , i read the floor is not part of the mot test (hwo true i dont know) the only structural part of the floor is where the rear belts fixing points pass through it but there not joined to it ......... i guess at the end of the day its your own choice what you do , either weld a new one in , or rivit ans silicone a new one in ................
 
I unpacked the new floor yesterday, it dont even come with the fuel tank cover plate :(

Looking at the job, some parts of the side supports have rusted away and the strips that go across the tank have gone too, are these more bits i have to buy?

I have a can of seam-sealer for the edges buts whats a good way of giving it some extra protection and how the heck do you treat the underside???

It looked simple, now i'm not so sure.

I have searched here but there are no clear threads on floor replacement, a lot of arguments about rivets or welding but not much substance!

Dave
 
You're lucky mate, my floor, side panels; arch tubs and rear crossmember could all do with replacing/repairing!

I have done sufficient patching etc but I don't know where to start regards the big job!
 
davek0974 said:
I unpacked the new floor yesterday, it dont even come with the fuel tank cover plate :(

Looking at the job, some parts of the side supports have rusted away and the strips that go across the tank have gone too, are these more bits i have to buy?

I have a can of seam-sealer for the edges buts whats a good way of giving it some extra protection and how the heck do you treat the underside???

It looked simple, now i'm not so sure.

I have searched here but there are no clear threads on floor replacement, a lot of arguments about rivets or welding but not much substance!

Dave
Click to expand...

Hi Dave, when I did the floor of a TDi 200 we had a while ago, the floor took itself out leaving almost no side ledge to put the new one in.

I made Z-shaped pieces to fasten to the edges sat on automotive mastic and fastened with rivets. I painted the underside of the side pieces with two coats of Hammerite black.

I then painted the new floor panel underside twice with Hammerite black as well as the new crossmembers.

After fitting the new supports and put substantial beads of this mastic around all 4 sides, then bedded the new panel down onto it and rivited in place on the sides and the cross members.

I then gave the topside of the new panel and side pieces two coats of Hammerite metallic blue - almost the correct colour of the car - and that was it.

It past two Contrôle Techniques like that before selling the car on - there was NO signs of rust at all in this area when I sold the car 4 yrs after the work was done.

Good luck

Dave
 
That sounds good, unfortunately i dont have any metal forming stuff in my workshop, just lathes and mills etc so making patch panels isn't going to be easy.

I have found the parts for the cross strips that'll be another £40 :( but as for the side repair strips i'm a bit stumped at present.

Dave
 
davek0974 said:
That sounds good, unfortunately i dont have any metal forming stuff in my workshop, just lathes and mills etc so making patch panels isn't going to be easy.

I have found the parts for the cross strips that'll be another £40 :( but as for the side repair strips i'm a bit stumped at present.

Dave
Click to expand...

Hi mate, YRM do these repair side panels that you just cut to size depending on what you need, but the shelf is already there there.

046 Rear floor side skirts - universal

When I did mine I bought lengths of thinnish angle iron and with two pieces created the 'z' shape.
 
With the arguments raging about whether to rivet, screw, weld or stick the floor in place, i decided to look at what i've got. Now correct me if i'm being a total nob but here's the shape of things...
floor.jpg


So if its that shape, how is the floor fixed, it cant be puddle welded or rivetted as there is a gap under the edge???

Am i a nob or is something not right here?????

Dave
 
Hi
Did my boot floor last month using the Z strips. Was quite easy (after lots of cutting and grinding) Your diagram has the boot floor upside down. the lips on the edge of the floor face up and then it's easy to drill lots of holes and puddle weld.
Rich
 
RichP said:
Hi
Did my boot floor last month using the Z strips. Was quite easy (after lots of cutting and grinding) Your diagram has the boot floor upside down. the lips on the edge of the floor face up and then it's easy to drill lots of holes and puddle weld.
Rich
Click to expand...

Ah, so i was being a nob:) It just looked 'right' that way up, thats ok then 'cos i thought i was going nuts;)

Dave
 
Don't worry mate Ive fitted my rear floor upside down, only realised once I went to fit the rear seats!! Nothing that couldn't be fixed with a hammer.
I mig welded a 'Z' strip and then bolted the new floor throgh the bottom lip, at least it leaves me with the option to take it out if I need access in the future.
Oh and it is a sh1tter that the floor doesn't come with a fuel tank cover, they're expensive n'orl. Is a job for an angle grinder and sheet of steel me's thinks :D
 
Thanks for that, lucky i checked first :)

I was thinking of going with industrial panel adhesive and rivets, my mot guy reckons that once its all covered in mastic and goop, you wont be able to tell and with the sealant / adhesive he recommended, its as good as a weld and they also glue lotus cars together now!

The seatbelt mounts are not structural as they just pass through and although the seam does pass within a few zones, he fellt ok with it being glued/rivetted. I still might weld the z-strips though, we'll see how it goes.

Dave
 
As my old floor is not totally rusted out, i'm going to have to cut a goodly portion of the old seams to remove it. I'm aiming to only 'just' break the surface with the cutting wheel but what lurks below that i could make a pigs-ear out of? And yes i do know the fuel tank lives there :)

Is there anything else in close proximity to the floor edges i should be aware of?

Also, i have three cross-supports, do they have to go in a specific position??

Sorry for all the q's but its my first major attack at body work:)

Dave
 
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