Freelander 1 Rear door, and glass - electrical

Sometimes I like the freebie. At other times I hate it!

Lack of mot, combined with ripping out everything in the back garden and another car available means the freebie hasn't moved for a couple of months. Fast forward to today:

Battery flat - pull the cable through the grill (because the door lock is iffy)
Jump leads on and leave to charge for a few minutes
Plip now unlocks car.
Car starts
Move car
Notice rear window is down - assume Plip pressed for too long
Try to close window with dash switch - no response
Try to open tailgate - no response
Try key in tailgate - nothing
Trawl internet and learn that when battery is reconected, glass drops to bottom.
Try disconnecting battery for varying lengths of time
Check all fuses in both boxes - all fine
Two hours later, rip out door trim, unclamp glass and wedge up so the thieving buggers don't go to town....
Also note that dash central lovking button doesnt work, although plip locks the csr ( with a bleep, so it presumably reslises window is open).
Currently I hate the bloody thing!

Anyone got any suggestions? Please? ?

it could be if it has been standing that the cables went when it went down.

Yeah - thought of that, but it doesnt explain the door not opening. can't move it by hand, or hear anything trying to work when using the dash switch either.

As the window is electronically controlled and the door is opened electronically - I'd suggest a common part of the loom to the door is caput. I'd have a look in Rave and see if they share a common earth.

It may be that the CCU "thinks" the window is closed - so will not allow the door to open. Not sure how it determines if it is open or closed - once again, Rave is probably your friend. If this is the case, you fix the window and the door will open.

The rear door lock will only release when the window has dropped to the door open position. If the window doesn't drop, the lock won't release.
Both window and door lock are under CCU control. So you need to sort out the window mechanism, before normal operation of the lock will resume.

Nodge68 said:

The rear door lock will only release when the window has dropped to the door open position. If the window doesn't drop, the lock won't release.
Both window and door lock are under CCU control. So you need to sort out the window mechanism, before normal operation of the lock will resume.

Click to expand...

There is a "subtle difference" - it doesn't matter whether the window is actually open or closed - its whether the CCU thinks it is open or closed that will determine whether it will allow the door to open or not. The CCU presumably is fed by sensors to determine if the window is closed, dropped or open.

The problem is that the window is "stuck open" - pressing the button to raise the window doesn't do anything - the question is why?

Is there a sensor to say when the window is closed? If so, presumably it is faulty and is saying the window is closed when it isn't - this would stop the window being raised and also stop the door from opening. If it senses when the window is open/closed via a voltage change, then there is something mechanical jamming the system - maybe a broken cable or motor, possibly a wiring fault. The Rave manual should have info.

@Dave _O are there any noises when you press the window down or up button? ie is it trying to do anything? If you press the window down button then try and open the door, does that have any affect?

With the door trim off, you can put a 12v supply to the door mechanism to open it. I only know this because people have said they have done it - I don't know what you have to contact - and (more importantly) I don't know what damage you can do to the CCU (computer) or lock mechanism if you do it wrong - so do some research before you start poking wires at things!

The CCU is in charge of the window and lock. When the door handle is pulled, the CCU drives the window down for a preset time period. This should result in the window dropping around 17mm. After this time period, the CCU energises the door latch. As far as I know, the CCU monitors the battery voltage. It uses the voltage change to determine if the window has moved. Only when it is satisfied that all criteria have been met, does it release the door lock.
When the calibration process is started (window dropping on battery connection), the CCU monitors voltage, looking for a sharp drop as the motor stalls. After the motor stalls, the CCU enters a window calibration ready state. The driver powers the window back up, until the motor stalls again. This gives the CCU the datum voltage drop at finish. From this point onwards, the CCU knows that the window is closed, when that voltage drop is achieved.
The window will now drop and raise automatically when the handle switch is pressed.
By manually lifting the window, no voltage drop information is available to the CCU processor. This causes it to shut down all lock release functions to avoid damage.
The only way to get lock working correctly, is to have the window working correctly.

This bloody thing has bee sat in my drive since December! I'm now at 'fix it or f@@@ it off' mode.

Had a play today and made a few discoveries!

If I unplug the 20A fuse from the engine bay fuse box, the window and door operate ok. This seems to be the alarm fuse though - so the bloody thing wont start. It's allowed me to put the glass back in tbe runners and close the window though.

When I replace the fuse the window drops a touch - not as much as when you open the door - and I lose the function of window and handle. Pull the fuse and it pops the rear door open and functions are back. With the fuse in, the left hand of the two relays in the boot buzzes continually. Swapping them over made no difference. At on point, the rear wiper was going continually when the fuse was in, but that seems to have gone away. Any of this give anyone a clue?

I had a similar problem with my Freelander, it turned out to be the locking mechanism didn't quite catch. a slight adjustment to the locks and all is fine