Disco 2 Rear diff pinion seal

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Matt2e0fgx

Matt2e0fgx

Active Member
Posts
182
Location
Swindon
My diff pinion seal leak is getting worse , I ordered a seal and attempted to tackle it but I'm stuck trying to get the pin that is in the flange before the bolt .

Come across 2 problems 1 , whist in air the whole diff turns when trying to remove the pin with socket and bolt technique and 2 , the pin after heat ( oxy acetate ) using socket and bolt and a really heavy big slide hammer will not come out .

Any ideas ?

Also where do I get a new pin from ? I feel it will be damaged by time it's off !

Cheers
 
There a quite a few YouTube vids showing how to get to the rear diff pinion seal without special tools.
The bolt/socket method works great.
 
I've done it too with just making a puller using a cut-down old box spanner for the big hole, and some ferk of thick washers, threaded bar down the middle, or a bolt, with further nuts on it to act against the washers.
From your first post it sounds as if you are trying to do this with the diff still on the car.
If so, if you want to lock the diff, you could try to lock the diff with wheels, difflock etc etc.
I did it by taking the diff off. Not too difficult, although the diff is heavy! Once that's done it is easy to lock the crown wheel and pinion. But wouldn't it be easier just to lock the three holed flange? Long bolts for instance? Thats what I did.
 
I tried a slide hammer, it didn't work for me either. Heat makes things expand, the last thing you want is for it to expand in its hole, just locks it further. Lots and lots of freeing-off liquid combined with not too hard blows from a hammer to fracture the seal around the pin, to let the fluid go in and do its work. That stuff plumbers use to freeze the water in pipes might be useful on the pin to actually shrink it a bit. I have never used it but I have heard of others using it for stuff. But I have heard it can make metal brittle.
 
I seen someone drilled the drilling down to the bolt head for the flange and tap to m10 and use bolt to jack off and vokt screwing in pushes against the flange bolt to jack the pin out
 
Or you can do it the way I first did it, as you can see if you zoom in, the spigot IS coming out. As you will know from the youtube video, it is much easier if you get the diff off and into a workshop/garage of some sort. It was really Heath Robinson and very time consuming, but did work. It used the same principle as the LR tool and the one seen in the youtube, i.e. it used the three holes in the flange to each put pressure on the spigot rather than relying on just the one point, the centre thread hole. So three times the pressure, three times better. If I had suitable sockets etc, I would not have had to keep rotating that flange and changing the fixings onto the next bolt.
 

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use a big ocket that fits over the pin, and pushes on the 3 arms of the flange, use washers and a bolt to pull the pin out.

fast forward to 1 minute in this video
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Or you can do it the way I first did it, as you can see if you zoom in, the spigot IS coming out. As you will know from the youtube video, it is much easier if you get the diff off and into a workshop/garage of some sort. It was really Heath Robinson and very time consuming, but did work. It used the same principle as the LR tool and the one seen in the youtube, i.e. it used the three holes in the flange to each put pressure on the spigot rather than relying on just the one point, the centre thread hole. So three times the pressure, three times better. If I had suitable sockets etc, I would not have had to keep rotating that flange and changing the fixings onto the next bolt.
Click to expand...

Only thing this is my daily driver so cant afford to be disabled too long
 
flat said:
use a big ocket that fits over the pin, and pushes on the 3 arms of the flange, use washers and a bolt to pull the pin out.

Now what's that conversion kit called ? I like to convert my rear prop .

fast forward to 1 minute in this video
Click to expand...
 
Matt2e0fgx said:
Only thing this is my daily driver so cant afford to be disabled too long
Click to expand...
If you don't have another vehicle to use while you are repairing this one (first tool in a Landy owner's tool box) then you are a bit stuck.
It IS only an amateur mechanic's day's work but if it is the first time you are doing it, and you lack confidence and maybe some of the tools, then you may be stuck with giving it to a garage to do.
Sorry I cannot be more help.
 
flat said:
Google it, you will need a new flange and a new propshaft to do it. Paddock sell all the bits afaik
Click to expand...

I have found the flange but not sure on the prop under discovery 2 no rear prop option with rear uj listed . I'm expecting it's going to be one off a defender but it's just finding out correct length etc
 
Stanleysteamer said:
If you don't have another vehicle to use while you are repairing this one (first tool in a Landy owner's tool box) then you are a bit stuck.
It IS only an amateur mechanic's day's work but if it is the first time you are doing it, and you lack confidence and maybe some of the tools, then you may be stuck with giving it to a garage to do.
Sorry I cannot be more help.
Click to expand...
 
Confidence is no issue , it's just having all equipment on hand like pullers etc to do the job .

Horticultral/Agricultural technician but I have never taken a traditional diff apart before. Yes I understand principles but I'm not going to take this job at work . Would be in the s*** if vehicle stuck in workshop come monday morning !

Yes I can borrow another vehicle if s*** hits the fan but I dont own another vehicle myself .
 
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