Rear diff modification!

My not so trusty freelander has tonight developed a new symptom of a horrendous loud high frequency grinding/knocking coming from the rear diff, present moving forwards, or backwards, but reduced when turning.

Managed to get it to a safe parking place and walked home.

From the net, it seems to be the rear diff perished as a result of a failing vcu.
If so both jobs, done properly (ie not by me) are likely to cost more than the car is worth, on its 3rd head gasket, both front widow wires gone in last week....

But with santa due, and lots of stockings to fill, I cant afford a new car at the moment, or really see the sense in having this one fixed?

So could i sound out/ask the possibility of my plan with you guys

- if i jack up the back end, and remove the pan from the back end of the diff, will i be able to remove the innerds from the casing, and run the car as a front wheel drive only?

Will i be able to get the pan off without dropping the diff casing out?
Will i be able to get the innerds out without removing the drive shafts?
Was too dark to have a look tonight where i left it.

I know its not ideal. I do respect the brand, i really do, and i wont let the side down or embarrasse anyone by getting stuck in the snow, but:

Is it possible/not dangerous /irresponsible to run with an empty case rear diff?

Thanks in advance for any replies

Hi welcome ,I would start by removing the complete prop shaft and vcu. Then drive it and get the diff sorted if the problem persists .


Have you recently fitted new tyres to the front ?

I empathise totally with you. I'm strapped for readies at the moment too.

Can I suggest that you simply? remove both propshafts and the VCU as one unit.

Try it like that and if you still have the grindy noise take out bits from the diff. I'm sure someone on here will advise which bits.

Your Hippo will run perfectly happily as a FWD until Xmas is past - and much longer.

Oh, and Welcome.

A lot depends on what has happened inside the diff. If you remove the pinion and front bearing (most likely cause of a failure) and blank off the front of the diff the crownwheel and bearings will still be in place so will need to be lubricated, if the crown wheel or support bearings have failed (unlikely) then, in most cases, the two drive shafts would also have to be removed as the shafts are located in the crown wheel housings. So in my opinion, bearing in mind that I have never stripped a Freelander diff down, removing and leaving out the pinion is possible but leaving out the crown wheel is not an option.

Did you ever get this solved?

Madmustang said:

Did you ever get this solved?

Click to expand...

dragging up old posts again....

if you see an old post, Id suggest you first click on their user name profile, you'll see the last time they visited here, which was 2011, so in answer to your question, I'd say NO

..

Really sorry I didn't reply to this guys, things sort of got away from me.

Went back to it in the daylight.
It was just the rear diff nose bracket come off again.....(embarrassed face)

prop shaft bolts were rubbing on cross member

put the bolts back in. went ok. bolts came out again....

transpired the viscous coupling was seized and putting the strain on the nose bracket of the rear diff

garage said don't replace... given on third head gasket, just take off prop shaft. they would pass it ok for mot.

did that and ran it in one wheel drive for about 18 months! It was never happier, so long as it didn't rain..

garage said seriously time to get something else (cant remember why..?)

part ex'd with prop shaft in boot.