Old diver
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Can anyone tell me what strength press is required to push out the bracket inserts so I can fit poly bushes, would a 6 ton press do it?
Rear diff brackets
- Thread starter Old diver
- Start date
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baptista
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I've cut mine out
Madmustang
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I think they are glued in so I would do a quick cut as bap said you proberly won't need a press but give it a go if you have a press and let us know what happens
Old diver
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The rubber centre section is not the problem. It's the steel sleeve that the rubber is inside of. The sleeve has to be pushed out of the ally bracket. I have given an old one some mighty hits with a 2 pound hammer and there is no movement.
Madmustang
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One of those cheap 6 ton presses will do the job in that case
Old diver
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Removed the rubber inner using a hole cutter that's used for wood. Used angle grinder to cut steel sleeve, then hacksaw to join the angle grinder cuts, you know when your through as the sleeve springs a little, gripping the hacksaw blade. Gentle tapping and sleeve dropped out. If your going to do this, mark the sides of bracket, small and big, as brackets have to go back onto the diff the right way. Rule of thumb, the big side of the bush goes towards the diff on all three. Tomorrows job is to clean the bracket and fit the poly bush.
Madmustang
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Same method I am using to get the races out of my IRD case
CJK
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Soak in WD40, a big hammer and open vice jaws sorted mine....
Yes as the steel started to move it did distort a little, but a run round with a file sorted out any burrs and then a suitable punch/drift to get the steel ring through the ally housing!
Chris
Yes as the steel started to move it did distort a little, but a run round with a file sorted out any burrs and then a suitable punch/drift to get the steel ring through the ally housing!
Chris
Alibro
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A welder is a good way to heat up the centre shaft so that it just slides out, then the rest is easier to handle.
Old diver
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If you heat the centre shaft won't it expand and get tighter in the bracket? I noticed on the one I took out that it was well crimped by the ally bracket and it had fused to the ally as well.
Alibro
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Sorry I didn't make it clear. I was talking about the centre shaft held by the rubber seen in the first pic in this thread. Heat it with a welder and it melts the rubber and falls out. This relieves the pressure on the rubber and makes it easier to bash the sleeve out. You've already cut it out so not an issue for you anymore.
This is a great way to get the metal shafts out of any bush.
Madmustang
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Surprisingly no as it has the opposite effect on metal that is in the shape of a ring like bearing races as the weld cools it shrinks the ring so you can knock it out etc. I would use this method but have no welder. You have to be careful because as you dont want to weld the ring to whatever you are trying to remove it from lol
Old diver
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Got you mate, I didn't have a problem with the rubber as the hole cutter just about took the lot out.
Old diver
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Got to disagree on the metal in a ring quote. Years ago we used to get a thing called brake fade on HGVs, caused by excessive braking on long inclines. The heat generated by the pads caused the drums to expand away from the pads, sometimes causing complete brake failure.
jamesmartin
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that happens, but if you do run a weld around the inside of a bearing race etc the weld will shrink the race a little enabling easy removal,weld contracts as it cools
Madmustang
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It gives you the idea in this video
Last edited:
Nodge68
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That kind of brake fade is more to do with the shoes not working at higher temperature. The drum will expand a bit with heat, but the airpack should have more than enough free movement to compensate.
GrumpyGel
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I've had the brakes fade (to nothing!) on my D1 going down a hill before - they're discs all round and in theory if everything expanded it would presumably lock them up rather than not work. They just literally went from working to nothing.That kind of brake fade is more to do with the shoes not working at higher temperature. The drum will expand a bit with heat, but the airpack should have more than enough free movement to compensate.
It was a really scarey moment having to coast the remainder of the hill onto the flat - luckily there wasn't much of it. I learnt the lesson of low gears going down hill even in an auto that day.
