rear bumper bolts

gfromleeds · Jan 15, 2014

Hi guys as the title sugests im having probs getting my back bumper off due to the bolts been rusted and rounding off.
Anyone got any suggestions? I dont mind damaging the bumper but would prefer not to as ive promised it to another lz member
As im upgrading to a colour coded with cam and parking sensors.

wammers · Jan 15, 2014

Not if you can't get the bolts out you ain't.

odyssey · Jan 15, 2014

I'm going to be doing this soon, managed to get one of the bolts out (by inadvertantly reversing gently

into a rail in a carpark - the mounting plate and the inner bumper were so rusty the bolt just fell out. I now have parking sensors.) But the other bolt isn't looking good, I've been dowsing it with penetrating oil, but you can't easily get to the back to do the thread. I very much suspect that it will have to be drilled out.

Useful link here, you can see what you'll be doing:- Bumper Removal.

One thing I've not been able to establish is whether colour coded bumpers (like mine) are bolted onto the steel skeleton or whether they are 'gunked' on like the black plastic ones, because I think my steel frame will be unsalvagable, there are 4 rears in my local scrapper 2 of which are colourcoded, hopefully I can just transfer the outer to one of these inner frames.

Good luck.

Alastair

tomcat59alan · Jan 15, 2014

odyssey said:
I'm going to be doing this soon, managed to get one of the bolts out (by inadvertantly reversing gently into a rail in a carpark - the mounting plate and the inner bumper were so rusty the bolt just fell out. I now have parking sensors.) But the other bolt isn't looking good, I've been dowsing it with penetrating oil, but you can't easily get to the back to do the thread. I very much suspect that it will have to be drilled out.

Useful link here, you can see what you'll be doing:- Bumper Removal.

One thing I've not been able to establish is whether colour coded bumpers (like mine) are bolted onto the steel skeleton or whether they are 'gunked' on like the black plastic ones, because I think my steel frame will be unsalvagable, there are 4 rears in my local scrapper 2 of which are colourcoded, hopefully I can just transfer the outer to one of these inner frames.

Good luck.

Alastair

As I remember there are two bolts either side (10 mm) and four clips at the top of the bumper that hold the two parts of the bumper together. There was some "gunk" as well which I replaced with expanding foam. The steel frame is interchangeable between colour coded and plastic bumpers. I had to hammer an old socket on to what was left of the bolts to get them out. Large Manchester micrometre required, lump version advised.

wammers · Jan 15, 2014

tomcat59alan said:
As I remember there are two bolts either side (10 mm) and four clips at the top of the bumper that hold the two parts of the bumper together. There was some "gunk" as well which I replaced with expanding foam. The steel frame is interchangeable between colour coded and plastic bumpers. I had to hammer an old socket on to what was left of the bolts to get them out. Large Manchester micrometre required, lump version advised.

You mean a 2 pound cluttering peg?

tomcat59alan · Jan 15, 2014

The four bolts usually twist the brass inserts out of the bumper when you try to undo them. A bit of heat to free the bolts and the inserts can be Araldited back in place

tomcat59alan · Jan 15, 2014

wammers said:
You mean a 2 pound cluttering peg?

Or heavier if you have one

wammers · Jan 15, 2014

tomcat59alan said:
Or heavier if you have one

A 2 pound cluttering peg with a long handle is better than a lump clutterer with a short handle. You just have to be careful where your thumb is.

tomcat59alan · Jan 15, 2014

wammers said:
A 2 pound cluttering peg with a long handle is better than a lump clutterer with a short handle. You just have to be careful where your thumb is.

Yep, and put the socket on a short extension, preferably half inch drive, Gripped in a pair of Moles. Plaster free

wammers · Jan 15, 2014

tomcat59alan said:
Yep, and put the socket on a short extension, preferably half inch drive, Gripped in a pair of Moles. Plaster free

Reminds me of the bloke who went to the doctor with a mole on his willy. The doc told him. "I'll take it off this time, but if it happens again, i'm phoning the RSPCA".

tomcat59alan · Jan 15, 2014

wammers said:
Reminds me of the bloke who went to the doctor with a mole on his willy. The doc told him. "I'll take it off this time, but if it happens again, i'm phoning the RSPCA".

Booooo get off

odyssey · Jan 15, 2014

Or the bloke who went to the doctor with a frog growing out of his head.

The doc says 'What the hell happened to you?'

And the Frog replies 'Well it started as a boil on my arse'

Thanks for the info guys, I'll be polishing my lump hammer this weekend.

A

gfromleeds · Jan 15, 2014

Sounds like a plan but it looks a like they've completely rusted round
I call mine the persuader and it can ask nicely or Not so nicely lol
Was thinking would it be better/more controlled to put a socket over the bolt then using a jack underneath to press it on?

odyssey · Jan 15, 2014

If it won't unscrew I think drilling will be favourite , if you inflict too much damage you'll have to replace these:- Range Rover P38 New Genuine Rear Bumper Mounting Bracket ANR2381 | eBay
which seem to carry 5 captive nuts - one for the bumper and four to attach it to the end of the chassis rail. I know I'm going to have to replace one of mine - hoping one of the scrappers is good enough to remove them cleanly.

A

tomcat59alan · Jan 15, 2014

gfromleeds said:
Sounds like a plan but it looks a like they've completely rusted round
I call mine the persuader and it can ask nicely or Not so nicely lol
Was thinking would it be better/more controlled to put a socket over the bolt then using a jack underneath to press it on?

Give them a belt to remove the rust, you will find if they are original, that the bolt head is small 10 or 11 mm. Select a smaller socket, not one of your best, and hammer it on. Good luck

Druim · Jan 15, 2014

Irwin Bolt Grip Base Fastener Nut Remover Set 8 - 19mm EXPANSION SET IRW10504635 | eBay

gazzab79 · Jan 15, 2014

can u not get a grinder or belt sander on em?

tomcat59alan · Jan 15, 2014

odyssey said:
Or the bloke who went to the doctor with a frog growing out of his head.

The doc says 'What the hell happened to you?'

And the Frog replies 'Well it started as a boil on my arse'

Thanks for the info guys, I'll be polishing my lump hammer this weekend.

A

Booooo you get off as well! Heard that one before but it was a coloured gent with a parrot , and the parrot said "can you get this blackhead off my arse. I'll get my coat

wammers · Jan 15, 2014

The bumper bolts should be Torx bolts. Are you using the correct socket?

odyssey · Jan 15, 2014

They are Torx bolts, I've not tried loosening them yet, daily application of penetrating oil all this week, hoping to give them the best chance of moving before I have to drill them out.

Given the condition of the one that I already 'removed' I'm not hopeful of the remaining one turning, if I get a good hold on it I think it'll probably just shear off.

Unfortunately they are inset about an inch below the surface (see the pic) of the bumper skin so a grinder is a no go.

A

rear bumper bolts

Well-Known Member

No longer with us, RIP

Active Member

Well-Known Member

No longer with us, RIP

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

No longer with us, RIP

Well-Known Member

No longer with us, RIP

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

Well-Known Member

No longer with us, RIP

Active Member

Attachments

Similar threads