L322 Audio issue

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I would say I went down the wrong rabbit hole, the parts I replaced had corrosion on the motherboards. I've not checked the unit behind the screen yet, going to do that at the weekend.
I started with only the car information & mpg on screen. And just a solid tone when I put it into reverse, this was only a broken wire, easy sorted.
I've replaced the KH7 unit, DVD, Nokia & the wee Sub amp, only because they where all corroded. But still no sound. I found the diag screen below I was also able to test the hard buttons & volume wheel which are all ok.
 

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Looking at that screen shot you need to check your battery, 11.5v is way too low it should be more like 12.6v. Low battery voltage causes all sorts of issues.
 
Looking at that screen shot you need to check your battery, 11.5v is way too low it should be more like 12.6v. Low battery voltage causes all sorts of issues.
Would a low battery cause no audio tho? I'll was only thinking it was low cause I was using the system without engine on. I'll look I to getting it replaced this wkend too. Would you know the correct battery it's the below one that in it
 

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Would a low battery cause no audio tho? I'll was only thinking it was low cause I was using the system without engine on. I'll look I to getting it replaced this wkend too. Would you know the correct battery it's the below one that in it

Battery MF31-1000 is a favorite, just fit's in the tray. Best to put bonnet in service position to make it easier.

11.5v won't help as car starts to shut things down below a certain voltage.

From Rave.

The reduced audio volume is only active when the engine is not running. The audio volume is limited to a maximum of setting of 12 to reduce battery consumption. If the volume was set at a higher level than this when the engine was running, when the engine is subsequently started, the volume level will gradually increase to the previously selected setting. This prevents the user being distracted by a sudden increase in volume.
The time limit operation is active when the key is removed from the ignition and the system is manually switched on using the TSD. The system will operate for a maximum of one hour. The battery voltage is continually monitored by the IHU. If the IHU detects that the battery voltage has fallen to a predetermined level, the IHU will shut the infotainment system down to prevent further battery drain. Once the system has shut down due to low battery voltage, it can only be restarted when the engine is running and the battery voltage has risen above the threshold level for more than one minute.
 
Would a low battery cause no audio tho? I'll was only thinking it was low cause I was using the system without engine on. I'll look I to getting it replaced this wkend too. Would you know the correct battery it's the below one that in it
It clearly states in a post above that the audio will shut down with low battery volts and only resume with the engine running and the voltage passes the required threshold.
 
Just read another thread re MOST ring which says it goes in reverse order to the diagram I posted. The one I posted was for the telephone system control. I have now found another one for the MOST ring.

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Just read another thread re MOST ring which says it goes in reverse order to the diagram I posted. The one I posted was for the telephone system control. I have now found another one for the MOST ring.

View attachment 274666
Appreciate Bud, gonna have a bash tomorrow, will keep you updated. Don't even think that's the way it was set up before I ripped it all out.
Will get the original battery back in it, on the build sheet it says 110Ah/850 Or should I put in the more popular 120Ah/1000?
 
Appreciate Bud, gonna have a bash tomorrow, will keep you updated. Will get the original battery back in it, on the build sheet it says 110Ah/850 Or should I put in the more popular 120Ah/1000?

Yes 110Ah/850 is what LR specified but the MF31-1000 is better. If it's your daily driver then IMO you can get away with the 110Ah/850 but if it's left to stand for days then bigger is better.
What ever you get Make sure it's fully charged before you fit it.
 
Appreciate Bud, gonna have a bash tomorrow, will keep you updated. Don't even think that's the way it was set up before I ripped it all out.
Will get the original battery back in it, on the build sheet it says 110Ah/850 Or should I put in the more popular 120Ah/1000?
Battery Megastore MF31-1000 every time.
 
MF31 Battery installed, still no audio, nor select CD or TV. Going through test screens everything seems OK. The only unit I've not changes it the TV unit & Traffic Master unit. Would anyone be able to decipher the 2nd screenshot for me, does this screen tell me what's wrong.. lol
No idea what it is, so don't want to touch it... lol
 

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Guessing this means not present but no idea what. If you change the TV unit make sure you get a digital tuner, I'll post a link to a list of compatible units when I find it.
BTW what's the voltage showing now?

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TBH, I never even checked the V from the new battery, I presume it would have been correct I'll check again with a meter after it's sitting for the night.
Took the dash off at the weekend too, to get at the unit behind the screen, em vents are a bugger to get out... lol
That seemed OK too, couldn't find a fuse attached to it tho?
 
I think that may be the analogue one which is no good anymore, you're better off with the hybrid one from the RRS as it's thinner and will slide down in front of the old one so easier to install.
I fitted a AH42-19C063-AE but I think any of these should work.

AH42-19C063-AE
AH42-19C063-AF
AH42-19C063-AH

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So! A wee update
I've changed HK7 amp, Nav player, small sub amp, traffic master, TV unit & nokia unit all due to water ingress.
The MOST optical light is going around all the systems, I can now connect my phone but still no audio, can select radio but still no audio, the CD & TV I can't even select.
I've been in both MOST diag screens but can't make sense of them, can anyone assist?
 

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