rear axle off.

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Fran Tic

New Member
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14
Location
Stroud Gloucestershire
Hi all. I'm gona be taking the rear axle off my 110 at some point in the near future. While it's off I was planning to give everything a good clean, sort out any rust and welding and paint the chassis. The rear springs also need replacing. I want to get everything I'm likely to need first. What exactly will I need? For instance, I'm I likely to need bushes, is it a good idea to change them while everythings accessable?
 
Get the underside steam cleaned before you start - or pressure washed at least - it will make dismantling a lot nicer. And soak all the nuts and bolts in WD40 the night before you start.

If changing the bushes - make sure you have the kit to get them off - I used a blowlamp to get the rubber out, and then carefully hacksawed the bush out.

Leave the wheels on - it will make pulling it out from under the car a lot easier.

And if you already have the replacement nuts and bolts, then save a lot of time by grinding off the old ones, rather than struggling them off with spanners.

Good Luck.
 
Soaking in WD40 makes rusty old bolts a lot easier to undo.

WD40 is both a Water dispersant and penetrating lubricant - putting it on beforehand gives it a chance to work into the threads somewhat, making life a little easier.
 
captainbeaky said:
Soaking in WD40 makes rusty old bolts a lot easier to undo.

WD40 is both a Water dispersant and penetrating lubricant - putting it on beforehand gives it a chance to work into the threads somewhat, making life a little easier.
Click to expand...

a proper dismantling fluid will work 20 times better than a product designed to disperse water, the fact that it may have some ability to leach through corrosion is simply a marketing tool
 
I have to admit, I've not tried any of these alternatives - I've always reached for the good old WD40. Are they worth getting instead of WD??

With any job you do - have a think as to what's likely to be needed/go wrong.

For Example:-

You are opening up the brake system - have you got a clamp for the pipe (you could put clingfilm over the brake resevoir - I prefer a clamp. You will need to bleed this - do you have a bleed pipe and spanner - and of course brake fluid...?

Have you got a greasegun (Might as well grease the UJ's while you are there...).

I'm assuming that you are changing the axle - is the new axle good - are the brakes ok? - change any parts before you put it on the car - will save time later...

Have you got all the spanners you need (The classic Rangie has some big ones on the A-Frame arms and bushes...)

Simple stuff really - but think it through for 10 mins a few days before and get all this stuff together...

Have fun...

Mike.
 
Err don't want to go on - but WD40 is marketed as a penetrating Lubricant that also disperses water- have a peek at the can.

I've always relied on it for exactly that, and it seems to work well...

If you want a good water dispersant alone - try Steelguard (if you can find it)...
 
Wow - stirred a Hornet's nest there....

I stand by the good old WD40 - it's stood me well over the years - I have no complaints whatsoever (and it's available almost everywhere.)

If you reckon that the plus-gas is any good, I'll keep my eyes peeled for it.

Don't forget the saying.

If it moves, and shouldn't use duck Tape.
It it doesn't move and it should - Use WD40...
 
captainbeaky said:
Wow - stirred a Hornet's nest there....

I stand by the good old WD40 - it's stood me well over the years - I have no complaints whatsoever (and it's available almost everywhere.)

If you reckon that the plus-gas is any good, I'll keep my eyes peeled for it.

Don't forget the saying.

If it moves, and shouldn't use duck Tape.
It it doesn't move and it should - Use WD40...
Click to expand...

you can get a door open using a sledge hammer, but it's easier to use a key
 
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